tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-27510204019726745072024-03-15T21:10:20.105-04:00Birds on the brainAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09036340024818230677noreply@blogger.comBlogger143125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2751020401972674507.post-6552602073531883682017-11-26T13:14:00.002-05:002017-11-27T12:13:48.525-05:00On top of the world (Norway)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">As a present from my brother, Natalia and I made a long weekend trip up to Norway.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">This was much more of a bucket list trip than a birding trip.</span></div>
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We got really lucky with a clear night and intense aurora activity. Clouds can thwart light chasers for days, so going on trip to see the lights can be a big gamble.</td></tr>
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I was curious to discover what bird life could persist at such a high latitude (~70 degrees) so late in the season. How do birds cope with so little daylight?</div>
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We didn't exactly solve that mystery. All I can say is that clearly some small Passerines have figured it out, such as Great Tit, Treecreeper, Bullfinch, and Greenfinch, to name a few that we stumbled upon. And then there were large flocks of Redwings flowing across the countryside.</div>
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The sun traces a lazy low arc, barely cresting the horizon for a few hours. In theory this sounds terribly depressing. In practice what you get is a daily 6 hour sunrise/sunset, which sets the rugged, snow-covered landscape aglow.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; text-align: center;">Norway is a dream for photographers. I feel like I'm letting them down a bit with this average shot.</td></tr>
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The Tromsø waterfront is teaming with Common Eiders. We tried hard to pick through the flocks for a King, but came up empty. Still it was pretty neat to get to look down on hundreds of these things from a bridge and watch them take off on underwater flights into the frigid depths.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A few of the several hundred Common Eider foraging around Tromsø</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A few Long-tailed Ducks were tucked in the harbor.</td></tr>
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I was excited to get out whale watching. Typically the same prey that attracts whales often brings in flocks of sea birds as well. Unfortunately the herring schools hadn't yet returned to the fjords around Tromsø this season, so we had to be shuttled 3 hours over to Skjervoy to get out and after the humpbacks.</div>
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This meant that our time on the water was a bit brief. We did get to see a young humpback <span style="font-family: inherit;">attempt some breaches and bird highlights for us were our first ever looks at Black-legged Kittiwake (finally!). A few came in to investigate the wake of our boat.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Of course the crew had a singular focus of chasing blow spouts of whales, which were all over the place. There were plenty of alcids about too, but the ones close enough to identify were either Puffins or Common Murres. I'm sure there were some Thick-billed Murres and Black Guillemots lurking out there someplace, but alcid chasing wasn't exactly on the agenda!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">At a bathroom stop on our way to the port, I pointed out a flock of alcids flying past, which our Italian guide enthusiastically declared to be 'Little Auks.' This inspired in me a great measure of excitement, which </span>dissipated when I later realized that 'Little Auk,' is just the British term for 'Dovekie,' a bird I have seen many times in the US. These birds in question weren't Dovekie/Little Auk anyway, but rather young winter plumage Atlantic Puffins. Classic.<br />
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We ended up with 21 species, which sounds like nothing, but is actually quite a few given how little daylight we had to work with and that our birding was almost entirely incidental. Tromsø gives a nice taste of the arctic birdscape. It be interesting to visit again in summer.<br />
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I'll leave you with this quintessential arctic inhabitant.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is a poor photo (taken at a great distance from a moving boat) of an Iceland Gull in the harbor at Skjervoy. These aren't terribly unexpected in this location, but the Europe book says they are 'rare.' </td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09036340024818230677noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2751020401972674507.post-77454582735804771682017-09-05T05:08:00.000-04:002017-09-05T05:08:03.145-04:00Cleanup on Peninsula Yucatan (and Cozumel Island)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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The Yucatan wasn't high on our list of places to visit in Mexico since we had already spent<a href="http://birdaholic.blogspot.ch/2016/04/blogging-belizean-birds.html"> a week in Belize</a> not so long ago. But since Natalia had a conference to go to in Merida, we decided to bird and explore the area while we were in the neighborhood.<br />
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In making our plans we relied heavily on <a href="https://budgetbirders.files.wordpress.com/2016/10/mexico-trip-report-2016.pdf">Ross Gallardy's excellent trip report</a>. Sites we visited: Rio Lagartos, Ek Balam, Xocen, Coba, Cozumel.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">American Flamingo at Rio Lagartos. This wasn't a bird we were targeting on this trip, but we certainly weren't complaining when this one landed in front of us.</td></tr>
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First off, the Yucatan is awesome. This isn't a secret. Cruise ships pull up to its major tourist ports by the dozens. While such a touristic influx would ruin many places, and indeed Playa del Carmen is a bit of a postmodern consumerist hellhole (we didn't dare set foot in Cancun), the region is big enough and has enough attractions that it is possible to get away from the crowds, especially if you happen to be focusing on birds.<br />
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The birding is excellent of course, but there's also the fascinating Mayan temple ruins, the water-filled swimmable sinkholes (called 'cenotes'), postcard-worthy beaches and then phenomenal diving and snorkeling. No wonder everybody wants to go here.<br />
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We were joined for the mainland part of our trip by notable S. African ecologist and bird-nut, 'DuJuan Grandes' (Duan Biggs), who we met at the conference.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Birder extraordinaire Dr. Sr. DuJuan Grandes (et al.) birding in the forest at Xocen</td></tr>
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Our first birding stop, Rio Lagartos, is an essential one for any visiting birder as its one of the only places in the world one to see two endemics: the Mexican Sheartail and the Yucatan Wren.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">The endemic Mexican Sheartail at the Restaurante Chiquila feeders, Rio Lagartos</td></tr>
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The hummingbird is easy as pie. All you have to do is visit the restaurant Chiquila outside of town where the owners maintain a couple sugar-water feeders. We also encountered the local bird guide here, Ismael, and made plans to bird with him the following morning.<br />
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The wren can be found along the highway outside of town that cuts through scrub habitats. We found this road to be loaded with birds (and mosquitoes; come prepared).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Yucatan Wren outside Rio Lagartos. Yet another endemic Mexican wren belonging to the oversized <i>Campylorhynchus</i> genus.</td></tr>
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Turquoise-browed Motmots were everywhere.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">We ran into several 'Christmas trees' of Turqoise-browed Motmots, in which they just seemed to cover all the branches like ornaments. They would always disperse as we approached though so it was hard to capture this effect.</td></tr>
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The orioles were thick, coming in three superficially similar flavors: Orange (endemic), Hooded and Altamira. Be careful with those.<br />
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Otherwise I'll let these photos do the explaining...<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">The endemic Yucatan Jay near Rio Lagartos</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Lesser Nighthawk near Rio Lagartos</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">A pair of the endemic Black-throated Bobwhite. These things were calling all over the place, but a bit tricky to see. If you drive the gravel roads in the early am you should stumble upon them though.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">There are quite a few flooded areas (their size and existence dependent upon recent rainfall) along the scrub road outside Rio Lagartos, and it's supposedly a decent place to find a Rufous-necked Wood-Rail. No luck for us find that notoriously tough bird, but we came across a few shorebirds including this cute Black-necked Stilt.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">There were lots of tropical raptors in the area including Roadside Hawk, Common Black Hawk, Laughing Falcon and this molt-messed Zone-tailed Hawk. Sr. Grandes wanted a Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture, but we somehow missed that one.</td></tr>
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Most tourists come to Rio Lagartos to hire a boat to explore the lagoon and see flamingos, Boat-billed Heron, Bare-throated Tiger-Heron and other aquatic species, but Natalia and I opted instead to skip town early to visit the ruins at Ek Balam on our way south to Valladolid.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Natalia atop the main temple at Ek Balam. We chose this place over the more famous and not-far-away Chichen Itza for several reasons: 1) There are forests that provide birds and shade; 2) there are way fewer visitors (I hate crowds); 3) Climbing the pyramids is allowed.</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2lAhDFs4o5g/WYsFlPBTV8I/AAAAAAABhvk/-4zeueqjHmE-og3ZbbKb08Nu2o_wMxPKACLcBGAs/s1600/Golden-fronted%2BWoodpecker.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1308" data-original-width="1600" height="521" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2lAhDFs4o5g/WYsFlPBTV8I/AAAAAAABhvk/-4zeueqjHmE-og3ZbbKb08Nu2o_wMxPKACLcBGAs/s640/Golden-fronted%2BWoodpecker.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Golden-fronted Woodpecker at Ek Balam. Confusingly enough the subspecies here has a red 'front' or nasal tufts. The similar-looking Yucatan Woodpecker is the one with the golden 'front'.</td></tr>
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We picked Valladolid because of its proximity to the private reserve Xocen and made plans with the local bird expert, Ismael Arellano Ciau (no relation to the Rio Lagartos Ismael). Unfortunately he wasn't available the first night, so we went out with his colleague, Angel, who isn't quite as knowledgeable bird-wise (he typically leads cultural tours). Angel did know the location of the Vermiculated Screech-Owl in the area (score!).<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GErIiZaXUrg/WYsFqW8VuvI/AAAAAAABhv0/6A7MfYWFhuYKC76eUFCd2Wk5ZibVhwA-gCLcBGAs/s1600/Vermiculated%2BScreech-Owl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1164" data-original-width="1600" height="290" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GErIiZaXUrg/WYsFqW8VuvI/AAAAAAABhv0/6A7MfYWFhuYKC76eUFCd2Wk5ZibVhwA-gCLcBGAs/s400/Vermiculated%2BScreech-Owl.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Red morph of the Vermiculated Screech-Owl. By range this should be the 'Middle American' or 'Guatemalan' subspecies. Tropical owls are difficult enough as is, but they will only get harder if they continue being split!</td></tr>
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And thanks to Ross Gallary's GPS point we were also able to find a Yucatan Poorwill.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DIebV4iGfsA/WYsFsVFnAGI/AAAAAAABhwE/ZN9A7Bbr4nQDUNqOkSy02vxNiKtvkpiVQCLcBGAs/s1600/Yucatan%2BPoorwill.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1493" data-original-width="1600" height="372" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DIebV4iGfsA/WYsFsVFnAGI/AAAAAAABhwE/ZN9A7Bbr4nQDUNqOkSy02vxNiKtvkpiVQCLcBGAs/s400/Yucatan%2BPoorwill.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">One of the tough nocturnal endemics, the Yucatan Poorwill at Xocen. Clearly I still haven't mastered the hand-held night shot.</td></tr>
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Unfortunately the Yucatan Nightjar was nowhere to be found. Presumably July isn't the best month to look for them.<br />
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The next morning we went out with Ismael and another guide, Miguel, who helped us sift through swarming masses of Yellow-green Vireos to find our top target, the Rose-throated Tanager.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bJuLzIVuQck/WYsFnvy8DtI/AAAAAAABhvw/QqqjiEJ7gmwWgVfNqdmQJyAxKQW2Sp8QgCLcBGAs/s1600/Rose-throated%2BTanager.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1304" data-original-width="1600" height="520" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bJuLzIVuQck/WYsFnvy8DtI/AAAAAAABhvw/QqqjiEJ7gmwWgVfNqdmQJyAxKQW2Sp8QgCLcBGAs/s640/Rose-throated%2BTanager.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Rose-throated Tanager (with Black Catbird) at Xocen. This enigmatic <i>Piranga</i> tanager (meaning it is actually a cardinal and not a true tanager) eluded us in Belize, so we were pretty hyped to catch up with it in Mexico.</td></tr>
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Ismael took us to a nearby spot in the late morning where there had been a pheasant cuckoo present some weeks ago. Unfortunately the cuckoo had moved on, but we got to see this cool cenote with cascading fig tree roots, attendant Cave Swallows and Turqoise-browed Motmots.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S9kC57oaLuo/WYsFuq62nfI/AAAAAAABhwQ/RNuBnEUKj5ISUwCWnW9tAwoc1xW3YEgjwCLcBGAs/s1600/fig%2Broot%2Bwaterfall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1337" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S9kC57oaLuo/WYsFuq62nfI/AAAAAAABhwQ/RNuBnEUKj5ISUwCWnW9tAwoc1xW3YEgjwCLcBGAs/s640/fig%2Broot%2Bwaterfall.jpg" width="534" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">This iconic scene was a nice consolation for not seeing a Pheasant Cuckoo. Here we have a strangler fig perched on the edge of a karst sinkhole (cenote) with its roots cascading some 12 meters (40 feet) down to the sinkhole floor. </td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iBCjyzgB3dA/WYsFjvXCTDI/AAAAAAABhvg/HQCz9_BrOCE6-Zz8zFMaPKxe8q48ExZTACLcBGAs/s1600/Cave%2BSwallows.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1033" data-original-width="1600" height="411" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iBCjyzgB3dA/WYsFjvXCTDI/AAAAAAABhvg/HQCz9_BrOCE6-Zz8zFMaPKxe8q48ExZTACLcBGAs/s640/Cave%2BSwallows.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">There's an endemic subspecies of Cave Swallow in the Yucatan that specializes in nesting in cenotes. We caught up with this group hanging out in a cenote parking lot.</td></tr>
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Natalia and I parted ways with our excellent guides and Sr. 'Grandes' to make our way down to another ruins, Coba, en route to Playa del Carmen.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dUmxOzLaWQ0/WYsFf5VwWuI/AAAAAAABhvQ/fQRFK7tUBoICgHIVIrG8zHfTedE2R0SuQCLcBGAs/s1600/Birding%2Bgroup%2BXocen.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1375" data-original-width="1600" height="550" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dUmxOzLaWQ0/WYsFf5VwWuI/AAAAAAABhvQ/fQRFK7tUBoICgHIVIrG8zHfTedE2R0SuQCLcBGAs/s640/Birding%2Bgroup%2BXocen.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">The birding squad at Xocen. Ismael and Miguel were great local guides. They just formed a company called <a href="https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g499453-d12558717-Reviews-Yucatan_Jay_Expeditions_Tours-Valladolid_Yucatan_Peninsula.html">Yucatan Jay Expeditions & Tours</a>. If you want to bird this area look them up.</td></tr>
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The Coba ruins were impressive and in the midday heat, we appreciated the shade provided by the forest canopy. There were birds around, but we missed out on our one realistic target: Scrub Euphonia (they all ended up being Yellow-throated, which is supposedly rarer here).<br />
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Natalia wanted to get a move-on, but I convinced her to allow us 20 minutes to bird the boardwalk overlooking the emergent marshes fringing the nearby lake. To our astonishment Spotted Rail was an easy find here in the mid afternoon.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NyN_T8zqczY/WYsFqjXanBI/AAAAAAABhv8/I09xKT9r6hQYN5U3iuZAQ2Z-MaScjiNagCLcBGAs/s1600/Spotted%2BRail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NyN_T8zqczY/WYsFqjXanBI/AAAAAAABhv8/I09xKT9r6hQYN5U3iuZAQ2Z-MaScjiNagCLcBGAs/s640/Spotted%2BRail.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Spotted Rail at the Coba Lagoon. This is one of those birds I thought I just wouldn't ever see despite spending plenty of time birding within its range of occurrence. We saw two of these gaudy things with minimal effort.</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TqIqQYA0TBI/WYsFmGDVcpI/AAAAAAABhvs/tctCBdlIW2c810TQwt_WthIhu-KMhm6zQCLcBGAs/s1600/Least%2BBittern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1304" data-original-width="1600" height="520" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TqIqQYA0TBI/WYsFmGDVcpI/AAAAAAABhvs/tctCBdlIW2c810TQwt_WthIhu-KMhm6zQCLcBGAs/s640/Least%2BBittern.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Least Bittern at the Coba lagoon. Any day that includes an <i>Ixobrychus</i> bittern is a good day in my book. </td></tr>
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After a quick stop to swim with whale sharks, it was over to Cozumel for some diving and a bit of relaxation. Of course while on the island, it's essential to get out and bird at least one morning to get Cozumel Vireo and Cozumel Emerald. It's also worth trying to see the Cozumel Wren, which is technically a subspecies of House Wren, but is quite a bit different and likely to be split eventually.<br />
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We took our rented jalopy north out of town and quickly came across Cozumel Vireo (and endemic Yucatan Vireo) among the throngs of Yellow Warbler, but we weren't having any luck with the Emerald. As we were making our way back toward town we came across a couple birders (Mexican guide with an English client) by the side of the road, so we parked and approached to see what they were up to.<br />
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The guide immediately began blasting Ruddy Crake tape and out came a couple into view. Nice!<br />
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We were still basking in the crake afterglow when he began smashing out some Cozumel Wren tape and just like that we had two tricky birds in the bag. What luck!<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tThNFYhWOpk/WYsFjlBiVgI/AAAAAAABhvc/DFzhlfks_3sVxoBEouxWc17N-PABDAcRwCLcBGAs/s1600/Cozumel%2BWren.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1399" data-original-width="1600" height="558" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tThNFYhWOpk/WYsFjlBiVgI/AAAAAAABhvc/DFzhlfks_3sVxoBEouxWc17N-PABDAcRwCLcBGAs/s640/Cozumel%2BWren.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Cozumel Island Wren. This bird is quite a bit different than a standard House Wren. For one it lives in the forest. Second, it has a long yellow bill and is quite pale overall. Third, it just sounds really weird. Of course House Wren taxonomy is a bit of a Gordian knot, so don't expect this split to happen any time soon.</td></tr>
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Before we left, we were also able to glean some advice from the guide (wish I had caught his name) on where to get the Emerald. The next afternoon we had it at the flowering tree he had suggested in El Cedral. Ka-boom.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yWgvOOEZ8Lw/WYsFi5KGcNI/AAAAAAABhvY/UBoUX-sbv7QATzRhAmG8tl7d2CpD_EB0ACLcBGAs/s1600/Cozumel%2BEmerald.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1118" data-original-width="1600" height="278" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yWgvOOEZ8Lw/WYsFi5KGcNI/AAAAAAABhvY/UBoUX-sbv7QATzRhAmG8tl7d2CpD_EB0ACLcBGAs/s400/Cozumel%2BEmerald.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Cozumel Emerald, El Cedral</td></tr>
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Stumbling upon this guide helped us tick our targets quickly and efficiently, which was awesome because it left us plenty of time to snorkel, dive and enjoy the island's beautiful beaches.<br />
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My only regret is that cleaning out so many bird targets in the Yucatan leaves us little in the way of targets to entice us to return!<br />
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With so many cheap flight connections into Cancun, birding the Yucatan is a bit of a no-brainer. And with all the other area attractions it can be an easy one to sell to non-birder family and friends. Vayanse ya!<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09036340024818230677noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2751020401972674507.post-41837903439012259502017-08-28T03:07:00.000-04:002017-08-28T03:19:07.021-04:00Oaxaca, a birding paradise in Mexico<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Natalia and I like to plan birding trips ourselves, sometimes
hiring a local guide to help us target specialties. But planning a wedding is a consuming endeavor. Add on top of that organizing a two-week post-wedding tour of
Colombia for a party of 11 people ages 10 months to 71 years and our planning
energies were pretty well sapped. <o:p></o:p>It was our first time to Mexico, so we wouldn’t really know where to begin in such a big bird-filled country, anyway. Plus if things went badly we would have to answer to a couple of birder-scientist companions who were along for the ride. So, despite previous mediocre experiences, we convinced ourselves to outsource the planning and hired a guide to lead us and another couple on 5-day birding around Oaxaca, Mexico’s birdiest state.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ww84Ab8xyCU/WYsEafJNfJI/AAAAAAABhuw/jo6JgU8dyP8dnjjz_rTQrooqEY18b-ZkgCLcBGAs/s1600/Varied%2BBunting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="990" data-original-width="1600" height="396" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ww84Ab8xyCU/WYsEafJNfJI/AAAAAAABhuw/jo6JgU8dyP8dnjjz_rTQrooqEY18b-ZkgCLcBGAs/s640/Varied%2BBunting.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Varied Bunting in Oaxaca. Mexico is famous for its colorful buntings.</td></tr>
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Mexico in general, and Oaxaca specifically, exceeded our
wildest expectations. The landscapes and birds were surprisingly well-preserved.
Mexicans learned long-ago that forested watersheds are critical for preventing
flash floods and ensuring a reliable high quality source of water, which
sustains life in the arid mountain valleys. As a result mountaintops have been
free of logging for at least the past 50 years.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful forested mountains on the road up to Arroyo Guacamaya</td></tr>
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These environmental policies have been a boon to the endemic
birds of Oaxacas cloud forest and montane bird species.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DNc3mNjdS6E/WYsEbtuFVqI/AAAAAAABhu0/ExQ-NkZJTmoWr9xi89HwqG7oNPT6NwOmACLcBGAs/s1600/West%2BMexican%2BChachalaca.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1127" data-original-width="1600" height="450" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DNc3mNjdS6E/WYsEbtuFVqI/AAAAAAABhu0/ExQ-NkZJTmoWr9xi89HwqG7oNPT6NwOmACLcBGAs/s640/West%2BMexican%2BChachalaca.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A sun-dappled endemic West Mexican Chachalaca we found near Teotitlan</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1311" data-original-width="1600" height="524" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9dyGoSTWOoc/WYsESkfVU4I/AAAAAAABhuQ/Z-RauOEREUkMUBrEi0SgfIcg62GkVTqbACLcBGAs/s640/Collared%2BTowhee.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This endemic Collared Towhee we saw in Arroyo Guacamaya looks to me a lot like an <i>Atlapetes </i>Brush-Finch</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U371F7mqSIo/WYsESXPITOI/AAAAAAABhuM/TPAyxqGDsbwgbtJMFLFYbHczQBRh9i_cACLcBGAs/s1600/Chestnut-capped%2BBrush-Finch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1164" data-original-width="1600" height="464" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U371F7mqSIo/WYsESXPITOI/AAAAAAABhuM/TPAyxqGDsbwgbtJMFLFYbHczQBRh9i_cACLcBGAs/s640/Chestnut-capped%2BBrush-Finch.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yes! That's the one! The towhee reminded me of this Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch we saw just a bit down slope. Of course the taxonomists have decided that this thing is a tanager now, and not even in the same Emberizid family with towhees despite the resemblance.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cebIOxvsMdI/WYsEbgaMpxI/AAAAAAABhu4/unn7dAW-YUsC6bmz3p74OWzBUVXf2aO3QCLcBGAs/s1600/White-throated%2BTowhee.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1161" data-original-width="1600" height="464" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cebIOxvsMdI/WYsEbgaMpxI/AAAAAAABhu4/unn7dAW-YUsC6bmz3p74OWzBUVXf2aO3QCLcBGAs/s640/White-throated%2BTowhee.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This endemic White-throated Towhee is a bit more in line with other birds of the arid southwest called 'Towhee.' Spotted Towhees were also around, but I didn't make much of an effort to photograph them.</td></tr>
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Birding along elevational gradients in Mexico is a whole
different experience than what I’m used to in the super humid regions of the northern
Andes. The Mexican forest starts off as a scrubby, thorny dry thicket and
steadily grows wetter as you climb and the peaks begin to gather more and more
rain. Eventually, the forest switches to pine, much more reminiscent of highlands
of the North American West than anything tropical.<o:p></o:p><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7BZv7jYLMik/WZcFlYhR3sI/AAAAAAABh5c/MsEHaLloAd8kanqFo0mFwkXxqKSIszfggCLcBGAs/s1600/mountain%2Blunch%2Bspot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1511" data-original-width="1600" height="604" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7BZv7jYLMik/WZcFlYhR3sI/AAAAAAABh5c/MsEHaLloAd8kanqFo0mFwkXxqKSIszfggCLcBGAs/s640/mountain%2Blunch%2Bspot.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lookout tower at Arroyo Guacamaya in the pine forest. Beautiful spot to have a delicious snack or lunch of hot chocolate and memelitas after a morning of birding</td></tr>
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The deserts in between Mexico City and Oaxaca, where they were preserved, shocked me with
their beauty. It was the start of the ‘wet’ season, so all the plants had
recently flushed out leaves, so the normally brown landscape was cast in a
cheery spring green. The cactus forest at the Botanical Gardens of Helia Bravo Hollis blew me
away. The vegetation was so diverse in form, yet all of it so thick and
structural, that it reminded me of a coral reef.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c6uJ3d1ErFw/WZcDeYmzCoI/AAAAAAABh5E/7wC-G2Mw6hc15M6MI6Cr0-PG8w_BzFUcACLcBGAs/s1600/Cactus%2Bforest1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c6uJ3d1ErFw/WZcDeYmzCoI/AAAAAAABh5E/7wC-G2Mw6hc15M6MI6Cr0-PG8w_BzFUcACLcBGAs/s640/Cactus%2Bforest1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cactus forest from the 'canopy tower' at the <span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Jardín Botánico Comunitario Helia Bravo Hollis</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rtfj4ldPqgQ/WYsEQSJoNhI/AAAAAAABhuI/S8vHQvj125EB-Otc67_C7vFROn-KTtQGACLcBGAs/s1600/Boucard%2527s%2BWren.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rtfj4ldPqgQ/WYsEQSJoNhI/AAAAAAABhuI/S8vHQvj125EB-Otc67_C7vFROn-KTtQGACLcBGAs/s640/Boucard%2527s%2BWren.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the endemic Boucard's Wren, one of 10 <span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Campylorhynchus wrens found in Mexico</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sQ07Y18BYWU/WYsEUWn4DRI/AAAAAAABhuY/sRVBWvTFK7QtXWG7LtPoKGhLmrJ1xBUFQCLcBGAs/s1600/Gray-breasted%2BWoodpecker.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1467" data-original-width="1600" height="586" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sQ07Y18BYWU/WYsEUWn4DRI/AAAAAAABhuY/sRVBWvTFK7QtXWG7LtPoKGhLmrJ1xBUFQCLcBGAs/s640/Gray-breasted%2BWoodpecker.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gray-breasted Woodpecker making excellent use of the columnar cacti</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_dclVj-cYEE/WYsFH5lsVVI/AAAAAAABhvE/FmT3SWUXHtkA0TQIiogRzNb6AqJIuKebQCLcBGAs/s1600/Curve-billed%2BThrasher.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1241" data-original-width="1600" height="496" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_dclVj-cYEE/WYsFH5lsVVI/AAAAAAABhvE/FmT3SWUXHtkA0TQIiogRzNb6AqJIuKebQCLcBGAs/s640/Curve-billed%2BThrasher.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Curve-billed Thrasher enjoying some cactus tuna</td></tr>
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<o:p>After gawking at the cactus forest and its highly adapted resident bird life we enjoyed a delicious lunch at the nearby Restarante Itandehui in Zapotitlan, which specializes in local cactus-based cuisine. Many dishes are made from cactus buds (tetechas) and we were brave enough to try the appetizer of fried cactus caterpillars (cuchama).</o:p><br />
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Another gem of a natural site was the Military Macaw nesting spot in Ca<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 14.04px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">ñ</span></span>on el Sabino. Even
though it isn’t a terribly species rich spot (and we didn't tick any endemic species here that were not seen on other parts of the trip), the
thorn forest has an otherworldly beauty about it. And getting to look down upon
these passing multicolored macaws from a cliff-side vantage-point was a special
experience.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uMrA_myIeS8/WYsEVxZ4MeI/AAAAAAABhug/I5d0ln_qhz0uPfyiWfxRbTO_4ovZzseHwCLcBGAs/s1600/Military%2BMacaw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="855" data-original-width="1600" height="342" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uMrA_myIeS8/WYsEVxZ4MeI/AAAAAAABhug/I5d0ln_qhz0uPfyiWfxRbTO_4ovZzseHwCLcBGAs/s640/Military%2BMacaw.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Military Macaws at <span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Ca<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; text-align: left;">ñ</span><span style="text-align: left;">on el Sabino</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qepYDeEaZpA/WYsEYB27DRI/AAAAAAABhuo/TkSOpBiKQ2sSQNoe8U8kJbLBbGv5tFsRgCLcBGAs/s1600/Russet-crowned%2BMotmot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1295" data-original-width="1600" height="518" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qepYDeEaZpA/WYsEYB27DRI/AAAAAAABhuo/TkSOpBiKQ2sSQNoe8U8kJbLBbGv5tFsRgCLcBGAs/s640/Russet-crowned%2BMotmot.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The stream at the base of the canyon was thick with Russet-crowned Motmots</td></tr>
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We were glad our guide, Manuel, had convinced us to visit
the macaws and the cactus garden. If Natalia and I had planned the trip
ourselves we probably wouldn’t have put the macaw site on the itinerary, having
already seen the species in South America, but in the end we were really glad
we went.</div>
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Unfortunately, some of the other
itinerary and time-management choices Manuel made for us were baffling. We spent the third morning birding at an
artificial dam and nearby degraded pastures outside Oaxaca looking at such
trashy birds as Killdeer and Least Grebe. It wasn't until near noon that we began to head toward
the Pacific zone desert hills, which were tough to bird in the early afternoon blazing heat. We did manage to get the most
important target, the Orange-breasted Bunting...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qEcPHoF8hsU/WYsEW3dTn6I/AAAAAAABhuk/gtJ0nvV3v5E-i0kj542LQtVJCJO6EWAkQCLcBGAs/s1600/Orange-breasted%2BBunting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1600" height="432" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qEcPHoF8hsU/WYsEW3dTn6I/AAAAAAABhuk/gtJ0nvV3v5E-i0kj542LQtVJCJO6EWAkQCLcBGAs/s640/Orange-breasted%2BBunting.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The beautiful endemic Orange-breasted Bunting put in a great appearance on the side of Carretera 190. Manuel made sure to get us this bird since it was featured on the cover page of the trip checklist!</td></tr>
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...but we were forfeited entirely the opportunity to see a few other endemics we were supposed to have a chance to see, such as Citreoline Trogon, Golden-cheeked Woodpecker and Gray-crowned Woodpecker (all listed <b>in bold</b> on the checklist Manuel printed for us).<br />
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After some cross-examination of the important birds remaining on our lists, we demanded that Manuel take us up to the
high mountains on our final full day. This paid off big-time as we were able to see Dwarf Jay,
Natalia’s most desired target, and several other high elevation specialties. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9v_qYpG0bmc/WZcHaYWS6-I/AAAAAAABh6E/03Sa1Y6MxEIbi_FzMI_hxNgXKFwHlVQRgCLcBGAs/s1600/Dwarf%2BJay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1136" data-original-width="1600" height="454" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9v_qYpG0bmc/WZcHaYWS6-I/AAAAAAABh6E/03Sa1Y6MxEIbi_FzMI_hxNgXKFwHlVQRgCLcBGAs/s640/Dwarf%2BJay.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We tried hard for Dwarf Jay up in the high pine forests of Arroyo Guacamaya and then just when we were about to give up a flock of 20 enveloped the canopy above noisily foraging in the moss-laden branches like nuthatches. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-X4MlmHkdV0w/WZcHaaulf2I/AAAAAAABh6A/nb1JZy3rfmoNX56kJVZm0C5TkDLS-X4WwCLcBGAs/s1600/Red%2BWarbler.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1017" data-original-width="1600" height="406" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-X4MlmHkdV0w/WZcHaaulf2I/AAAAAAABh6A/nb1JZy3rfmoNX56kJVZm0C5TkDLS-X4WwCLcBGAs/s640/Red%2BWarbler.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is a terrible photo of the endemic Red Warbler, one of my top targets for the trip. These were common up high in Arroyo Guacamaya.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JdBROanxkEg/WZ_vViiTxgI/AAAAAAABirM/Ja8V-n0HHyw2E5OY5EPNJtq9UJ27se5RgCLcBGAs/s1600/Brown-backed%2BSolitaire.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1150" data-original-width="1600" height="460" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JdBROanxkEg/WZ_vViiTxgI/AAAAAAABirM/Ja8V-n0HHyw2E5OY5EPNJtq9UJ27se5RgCLcBGAs/s640/Brown-backed%2BSolitaire.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brown-backed Solitaire in Arroyo Guacamaya. This is a bird that, like many solitaires, sounds a lot cooler than it looks.</td></tr>
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Manuel came highly recommended by a Mexican birder friend, so
we were surprised to discover upon our first pre-dawn meeting that he was not
Mexican, but a French ex-pat. Manuel’s accent was a bit thick and he is quite soft-spoken, which led to some miscommunication. But Manuel is not only a sharp, experienced birder,
but also an accomplished ornithologist. He understands the distributions of
Mexican birds better than Steve Howell (author of the most popular Mexican
field guide and bird-finding guide), picks up on all the vocalizations and
knows Mexican natural history inside out. He has seen much of Mexico’s bird
life in the hand and his commentaries in the field (when they were intelligible
to our party of Hispano/Anglos) were top-notch.</div>
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Birding with Manuel does give one that exciting sense of exploration and discovery that birding sometimes brings. And we came across some notable birds.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g9Qpoj7C_YE/WYsEbx1kS4I/AAAAAAABhu8/w_SHB13RDo8BHgx3EtG5-y-gZ39TPe9bACLcBGAs/s1600/Mangrove%2BCuckoo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1167" data-original-width="1600" height="466" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g9Qpoj7C_YE/WYsEbx1kS4I/AAAAAAABhu8/w_SHB13RDo8BHgx3EtG5-y-gZ39TPe9bACLcBGAs/s640/Mangrove%2BCuckoo.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We found and photographed this Mangrove Cuckoo South of Tehuacan in a scrubby dry forest. This bird was not only hundreds of kilometers from a coastline, but well outside the range published in Howell and Webb. I guess these things sometimes do occur in mangroves, but this is terribly named bird.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SNkTYUWF6VI/WYsEQO-r6_I/AAAAAAABhuE/PKx0Hs9NQ2AWb53L762l3qczLnLkufeZQCLcBGAs/s1600/Botteri%2527s%2BSparrow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="968" data-original-width="1600" height="386" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SNkTYUWF6VI/WYsEQO-r6_I/AAAAAAABhuE/PKx0Hs9NQ2AWb53L762l3qczLnLkufeZQCLcBGAs/s640/Botteri%2527s%2BSparrow.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our final life bird of the trip was this Botteri's Sparrow, which is remarkable for how unremarkable of a bird it is. Just look at that drabness! I'm pretty confident that without Manuel we would have overlooked this thing, especially given its proximity to House Sparrow territory (note chain link fence in background).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O_OBMT_Iq4E/WYsESrd5vfI/AAAAAAABhuU/ATEYaMjjYOM2j_fypqr4eVDxeA0_Cy_8QCLcBGAs/s1600/Cinnamon-sided%2BHumminbird.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1160" data-original-width="1600" height="462" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O_OBMT_Iq4E/WYsESrd5vfI/AAAAAAABhuU/ATEYaMjjYOM2j_fypqr4eVDxeA0_Cy_8QCLcBGAs/s640/Cinnamon-sided%2BHumminbird.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally, I present to you Manuel's bird of the trip, this poorly-known <i>rowleyi </i>race of Green-fronted Hummingbird we encountered along carretera 190. It resembles a 'Cinnamon-sided' Green-fronted Hummingbird, what with the cinnamon sides showing, but that taxa (which is a potential split) is believed to only occur on the far side of the Mexican isthmus. Another possibility is that this is an intergrade between nominate Green-fronted and 'Cinnamon-sided.'</td></tr>
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Oaxaca is full of incredible birds, and has the feeling of a place ripe for onrithological discovery. With five days we were barely scratching the surface. I hope one day we can return, not just for the birds, but also the food which we found to be universally fantastic.<br />
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After a long drive back to Mexico City we had to set off to Merida for a conference. And of course more Mexican birding in the Yucatan peninsula! More to come...</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09036340024818230677noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2751020401972674507.post-6472685964558313062017-08-20T15:15:00.002-04:002017-08-20T15:15:59.433-04:00A birdy wedding<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Dear readers, <o:p></o:p></div>
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Apologies for the radio silence, but it has been a busy
couple months.<br />
<br />
June was mostly consumed by a wedding (featuring myself as the groom and Natalia as the bride) and
associated family travel in Colombia. And then much of July was spent in
Mexico, my first trip south of that ever increasingly controversial border.</div>
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More on Mexican pajaros will come later. For now, at the risk of coming off as vain, I want to take some
blog space to cover a rare example of a birder wedding. Not only was this a wedding between two birders, but also everything was bird
themed.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-L52DByN3Aok/WZnA7PtGdUI/AAAAAAABh_s/kdOMGNIS8MIATRzn8tOsIJe7oBarJREBgCLcBGAs/s1600/906A1327.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="425" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-L52DByN3Aok/WZnA7PtGdUI/AAAAAAABh_s/kdOMGNIS8MIATRzn8tOsIJe7oBarJREBgCLcBGAs/s640/906A1327.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">origami bird backdrop to the wedding</td></tr>
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Bird cake.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QkFuj4_LoME/WZnA0NwbqyI/AAAAAAABh-4/ixKrFXoQV_MDphkWMaN-ansshtfWck63QCLcBGAs/s1600/906A2407.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QkFuj4_LoME/WZnA0NwbqyI/AAAAAAABh-4/ixKrFXoQV_MDphkWMaN-ansshtfWck63QCLcBGAs/s640/906A2407.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cake toppers; Jabiru and Maguari Stork</td></tr>
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Birds in the bride’s hair.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BwpVJ1rqbIA/WZnAXyeM_qI/AAAAAAABh8M/mDQzM8erBa8b3bAHb1tv_EqEcndM8GnNwCLcBGAs/s1600/906A0728.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BwpVJ1rqbIA/WZnAXyeM_qI/AAAAAAABh8M/mDQzM8erBa8b3bAHb1tv_EqEcndM8GnNwCLcBGAs/s400/906A0728.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Bird on the groom’s lapel.<o:p></o:p><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PzrKOcEDfT4/WZnAukbR0rI/AAAAAAABh-U/2NWNb-jnpRkqzUv0fJ63VJowqMnUOHQGQCLcBGAs/s1600/906A2211.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PzrKOcEDfT4/WZnAukbR0rI/AAAAAAABh-U/2NWNb-jnpRkqzUv0fJ63VJowqMnUOHQGQCLcBGAs/s400/906A2211.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">looks like a N. Cardinal!</td></tr>
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Being an outdoor wedding, birds were invited, though
naturally only synanthropic species were able to attend, such as Rusty-margined
Flycatcher, Saffron Finch, Tropical Kingbird, Ruddy Ground-Dove, etc.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Each table had a bird mascot, and thus all guests were
required to do some bird identification to match their name cards with the
table sign-posts.<o:p></o:p><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KDdFHhOXPAY/WZnA6AWOP7I/AAAAAAABh_k/hJqvQC8lgN8CLcULMIMpN2VfcwzlfhUXwCLcBGAs/s1600/906A2420.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KDdFHhOXPAY/WZnA6AWOP7I/AAAAAAABh_k/hJqvQC8lgN8CLcULMIMpN2VfcwzlfhUXwCLcBGAs/s400/906A2420.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the coveted Blue Jay table</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YAVPQ3MGrkU/WZnBFBH0yfI/AAAAAAABiAk/RonEFy35Rx8nc81cTe2WijJz2jQC69_uwCLcBGAs/s1600/OO8A5416.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YAVPQ3MGrkU/WZnBFBH0yfI/AAAAAAABiAk/RonEFy35Rx8nc81cTe2WijJz2jQC69_uwCLcBGAs/s400/OO8A5416.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Identify the bird or you don't get to eat dinner</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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But let's get to some live action birds before everybody gets confused about what kind of blog this is.<br />
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Post-wedding we took my visiting immediate family (parents,
two brothers, their wives, 3 nieces and two nephews (ages 10 months through 11
years) on a two-week tour of Colombia. We split our time between the
coffee-growing region and the Caribbean coast. Both these regions are known for
their birdwatching potential (indeed there isn’t really a place in Colombia
without tons of bird diversity), but given the range of interests and abilities
among our party of 13, bird sightings were mostly incidental to more
family-friendly activities. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Nevertheless, when in the tropics even with minimal effort,
some astonishing bird things just always seem to happen. Before we even left
Cali, we made sure to hit up Finca Alejandria, where birding is made completely
effortless thanks to the 30 hummingbird feeders and trays of bananas.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-18MP7PwVThQ/WYsB9Cc--bI/AAAAAAABhtw/XZPpw8k43NsksSK39kp2RqsmqQnYvrEYQCLcBGAs/s1600/Long-tailed%2BSylph.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1023" data-original-width="1600" height="408" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-18MP7PwVThQ/WYsB9Cc--bI/AAAAAAABhtw/XZPpw8k43NsksSK39kp2RqsmqQnYvrEYQCLcBGAs/s640/Long-tailed%2BSylph.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Long-tailed Sylph, Finca Alejandria at km 18</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cD3B_hqvTh4/WYsB6c7oYnI/AAAAAAABhtg/hdmCfdRqrvIdAbG6Cxhnd_kUyrZv1rcLQCLcBGAs/s1600/Golden%2BTanager.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1212" data-original-width="1600" height="484" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cD3B_hqvTh4/WYsB6c7oYnI/AAAAAAABhtg/hdmCfdRqrvIdAbG6Cxhnd_kUyrZv1rcLQCLcBGAs/s640/Golden%2BTanager.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Golden Tanager looking for some bananas</td></tr>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-k7nist5FQWg/WYsB9EGlEZI/AAAAAAABhts/IWN-28v-5FAdHgoLESj68NsA4Ji_YKWlACLcBGAs/s1600/Red-headed%2BBarbet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1207" data-original-width="1600" height="482" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-k7nist5FQWg/WYsB9EGlEZI/AAAAAAABhts/IWN-28v-5FAdHgoLESj68NsA4Ji_YKWlACLcBGAs/s640/Red-headed%2BBarbet.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Banana feeders are great because they attract a wide range of frugivores. Here's a Red-headed Barbet chowing down.</td></tr>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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We made two trips to Alejandria. Once for a pre-wedding
photo-shoot and then again a couple days later with the fam. Both times the
highly-desired Multicolored Tanager (Endangered and endemic to Colombia) put in
an appearance.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-efTZMyfOyvE/WZh9_Mx5jBI/AAAAAAABh68/gFFGV4s80FAy2JR6UwXv7Ih8TS9NjXZdgCLcBGAs/s1600/Multicolored%2BTanager1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1252" data-original-width="1600" height="500" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-efTZMyfOyvE/WZh9_Mx5jBI/AAAAAAABh68/gFFGV4s80FAy2JR6UwXv7Ih8TS9NjXZdgCLcBGAs/s640/Multicolored%2BTanager1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Multicolored Tanager</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZBjBUKTd_vY/WZh9-DSk8yI/AAAAAAABh64/vb_C0YC2BJ0sSdlFILSs3h-GJEwTytbNwCLcBGAs/s1600/Multicolored%2BTanager2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1192" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZBjBUKTd_vY/WZh9-DSk8yI/AAAAAAABh64/vb_C0YC2BJ0sSdlFILSs3h-GJEwTytbNwCLcBGAs/s640/Multicolored%2BTanager2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Multicolored Tanager</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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After the end of the official festivities, we travelled by
bus to coffee-growing region north of Cali. From a vacation farmstead near
Armenia we made forays to various local attractions including: Parque el Café
(kind of a coffee-themed version of a Busch Gardens amusement park); Panaca (a
farm-animal themed park, which unlike Parque del Café, has stuck a bit more to
its core theme and not built tons of roller coasters and other conventional
crowd-pleasers); Salento and the scenic Cocora Valley; and birdiest of all, the
Quindio Botanic Garden.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MUg1eNBr3gM/WYsB-GjZdMI/AAAAAAABht0/RQZCgEZ-gSIDM52Ke_ZhiMruvxtOlpULACLcBGAs/s1600/Southern%2BLapwing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1284" data-original-width="1600" height="512" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MUg1eNBr3gM/WYsB-GjZdMI/AAAAAAABht0/RQZCgEZ-gSIDM52Ke_ZhiMruvxtOlpULACLcBGAs/s640/Southern%2BLapwing.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Southern Lapwing in a pasture in the Cocora Valley</td></tr>
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Natalia has a way of attracting news cameras and as soon as
we arrived at the botanic garden, the film crew that <i>just so happened</i> to be shooting a piece on bird watching,
immediately wanted to interview the both of us with our binoculars and cameras
in hand. Within the hour we were on national news talking about the value of
the site for conservation and its attractiveness for birdwatchers.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Shall we review?<o:p></o:p></div>
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The place has a bunch of hummingbird and tanager feeders
(check and check).<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a95Xtd2l9mE/WZh-itQOtYI/AAAAAAABh7E/9b9wGnkZZ4wgZUr7A8tgAQvGeiWW8HQSgCLcBGAs/s1600/Flame-rumped%2BTanager.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1139" data-original-width="1600" height="454" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a95Xtd2l9mE/WZh-itQOtYI/AAAAAAABh7E/9b9wGnkZZ4wgZUr7A8tgAQvGeiWW8HQSgCLcBGAs/s640/Flame-rumped%2BTanager.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Messy looking adolescent male Flame-rumped Tanager transitioning into adult plumage, Jardin Botanico de Quindio</td></tr>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
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It’s also got a canopy tower, a rare commodity in Colombia.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The birdwatching feature that impressed me most was the
forest bird blind. Instead of the usual small open windows to peer through, the
entire wildlife-facing front was a giant panel of polarized glass. This allowed
birdlife (and mammal life, there was an agouti present) to approach well
within excellent bare-eye viewing range without being startled. It also could
accommodate large groups without people obstructing each other’s views. I had never seen a blind like this before.
With feeding stations bringing in a steady parade of birds and with the darkness
of the fully enclosed shelter and the largeness of the polarized viewing pane,
it felt like sitting in some kind of live-action wildlife movie theatre.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nEnSJ7Bc828/WYsB8rtsntI/AAAAAAABhto/_EapWau7qHggWRI2llHEC8vbGdHfGMs3wCLcBGAs/s1600/Gray-cowled%2BWood-Rail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1465" data-original-width="1600" height="586" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nEnSJ7Bc828/WYsB8rtsntI/AAAAAAABhto/_EapWau7qHggWRI2llHEC8vbGdHfGMs3wCLcBGAs/s640/Gray-cowled%2BWood-Rail.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As evidence of the effectiveness of the polarized glass at the Jardin Botanico de Quindio blind, I present this Gray-cowled Wood-Rail, a normally skittish bird that sat out in the open a few meters from a less than silent group of 25 or so casual observers. This photo taken through the glass turned out pretty well too.</td></tr>
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The one disadvantage of this site is that it is a relatively
small fragment of forest, isolated from protected areas in a sea of degraded agricultural
and pastureland. It lacks the hyper diversity and specialty species would make
it a worthwhile stop for high-level birders. For the Neotropical novice,
however, it is not to be missed.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The last leg of the family tour was spent along the Caribbean
Coast, most notably, at Tayrona National Park, home of the Lance-tailed
Manakin and Cotton-top Tamarin, among other creatures.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-06xBW3t8WQI/WYsB6kfKLjI/AAAAAAABhtk/bi7I4Py2lrslF7efUGfz9BYNGdtA3ITCQCLcBGAs/s1600/Cotton-top%2BTamarin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-06xBW3t8WQI/WYsB6kfKLjI/AAAAAAABhtk/bi7I4Py2lrslF7efUGfz9BYNGdtA3ITCQCLcBGAs/s640/Cotton-top%2BTamarin.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The critically endangered Cotton top Tamarin. endemic to northern Colombia. These guys are not difficult to see in Tayrona NP.</td></tr>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Tayrona brought back some fond memories from <a href="http://scottsup.blogspot.ch/2010/04/i-made-it-back-to-la-hesperia-from.html">my first trip to Colombia back in 2010</a>.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lsoZTQdtTTQ/WYsB6YJDatI/AAAAAAABhtc/6pklcVXGqA0gVWoOgate59RRo6GUpOodQCLcBGAs/s1600/Crested%2BCaracara.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1063" data-original-width="1600" height="424" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lsoZTQdtTTQ/WYsB6YJDatI/AAAAAAABhtc/6pklcVXGqA0gVWoOgate59RRo6GUpOodQCLcBGAs/s640/Crested%2BCaracara.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crested Caracara with prey on the beach at Tayrona National Park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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After the obligatory stop through Cartagena we newly-weds skedaddled off to Mexico City. What kinds of fascinating birds would Mexico bring for us? Stay tuned to find out.</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09036340024818230677noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2751020401972674507.post-1117632956934396752017-05-29T08:55:00.000-04:002017-05-29T09:04:01.845-04:00Spring Migration in Switzerland (and Sicily)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Central Europe may not be everybody's idea of the place to spend spring migration, but since it's our home, for now, Natalia and I made sure to get out to spot some migrants and returning breeders when weather and schedules cooperated.<br />
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Around Zurich most of the best birding spots are associated with small lakes and their fringing wetlands and forest patches. Two typical examples are Flachsee and Klingnauer Stausee, both easily reachable in roughly an hour by public transport.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bCtFSx_LRf0/WSr490IFCRI/AAAAAAABfbU/EnONnoHXlzsipqZS-a-iXTTDQ5kApWRgQCLcB/s1600/Wryneck.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="921" data-original-width="1600" height="368" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bCtFSx_LRf0/WSr490IFCRI/AAAAAAABfbU/EnONnoHXlzsipqZS-a-iXTTDQ5kApWRgQCLcB/s640/Wryneck.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This wasn't my first Wryneck, but the first to let me take it's picture. At Flachsee</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-womMe1O5Hxk/WSr47A5gBbI/AAAAAAABfbQ/GckvV2r7btQOdDiaoeNPrcPeI24UHa5tACLcB/s1600/Song%2BThrush.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1122" data-original-width="1600" height="448" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-womMe1O5Hxk/WSr47A5gBbI/AAAAAAABfbQ/GckvV2r7btQOdDiaoeNPrcPeI24UHa5tACLcB/s640/Song%2BThrush.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Song Thrushes are back singing away. Flachsee</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bqx187cEVKI/WSr5BrAaIqI/AAAAAAABfbc/A935ZWYnmro8GZFIBWJ-UvyZ37N41ueggCLcB/s1600/White%2BStork.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1393" data-original-width="1600" height="556" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bqx187cEVKI/WSr5BrAaIqI/AAAAAAABfbc/A935ZWYnmro8GZFIBWJ-UvyZ37N41ueggCLcB/s640/White%2BStork.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White Storks are common, even in relatively urban areas. This one at Flachsee wasn't shy at all.</td></tr>
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Another local birding option is Greifensee, which Natalia and I can bike to in a little over an hour.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mdRAog8seac/WSwXuEmh8qI/AAAAAAABfd8/uMDaQfKMtQIzybYCbxA0eHK_8vMqzzCLgCLcB/s1600/Eurasian%2BHobby3%2Bcrop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1036" data-original-width="1600" height="414" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mdRAog8seac/WSwXuEmh8qI/AAAAAAABfd8/uMDaQfKMtQIzybYCbxA0eHK_8vMqzzCLgCLcB/s640/Eurasian%2BHobby3%2Bcrop.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The most interesting Greifensee bird so far has been a pair of Eurasian Hobbies. eBird threw up a flag on this one, so I guess they're relatively uncommon on migration. We watched them hawk dragonflies, showing off their orange underpants each time they ate one on the wing</td></tr>
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A lot of the migrant diversity in Europe comes in the form of the Little Brown Job. Old world warblers can be just as fidgety and skulky as new world warblers, but lack the flashy looks and useful field marks. I'm starting to get the hang of their songs, but the super common (and therefore boring) Blackcaps sing variably and use mimicry (the bastards).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bwc_FWW7KRA/WSr4-Ku_d_I/AAAAAAABfbY/JTUf1FDRWfoORhTb644WyEErNT58nn_qQCLcB/s1600/Eurasian%2BReed-Warbler.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="873" data-original-width="1600" height="348" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bwc_FWW7KRA/WSr4-Ku_d_I/AAAAAAABfbY/JTUf1FDRWfoORhTb644WyEErNT58nn_qQCLcB/s640/Eurasian%2BReed-Warbler.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eurasian Reed-warblers can be heard singing from nearly any bit of reeds in Switzerland and an extensive patch like this one at Flachsee will host several. These are not to be confused with the nearly identical Marsh Warbler, which is mostly identified by voice and habitat.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SVZvBtDkXsY/WSr5GhsvcPI/AAAAAAABfbo/a8sTpu3KJAABbpH_h8irhVEU2huKgsVkQCLcB/s1600/Savi%2527s%2BWarbler.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="818" data-original-width="1600" height="326" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SVZvBtDkXsY/WSr5GhsvcPI/AAAAAAABfbo/a8sTpu3KJAABbpH_h8irhVEU2huKgsVkQCLcB/s640/Savi%2527s%2BWarbler.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Savi's Warbler acts like a reed warbler, but is in a different genus and thankfully sings differently, giving this odd insect-like-trill. There were several of these at Klingnauer Stausee back in April.</td></tr>
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These warblers are tough to photograph, but you're not missing out on much anyway. Trust me.<br />
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I've managed to spot: Sedge, Marsh, Great Reed, Chiffchaff, Willow, Wood, Western Bonelli's and Whitethroat. Garden and Grasshopper have eluded me so far.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M-3MtUTnGR4/WSr5HBJZwjI/AAAAAAABfbw/cTCAg1HxSuIFINLCenjnAO3O_CuqznrrACLcB/s1600/Spotted%2BCrake.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="930" data-original-width="1600" height="372" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M-3MtUTnGR4/WSr5HBJZwjI/AAAAAAABfbw/cTCAg1HxSuIFINLCenjnAO3O_CuqznrrACLcB/s640/Spotted%2BCrake.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Combing the reeds for skulking warblers sometime turns up other interesting skulking birds, like this Spotted Crake at Klingnauer Stausee</td></tr>
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In reality Zurich isn't the best area to catch migrants (you may notice that most of the species above are local breeders rather than migrants). With a new Swiss birding friend, Benedikt, as our guide, we ventured out to the other side of Bern to the 'best' migrant trap, a place well-named in my German-illiterate brain: 'The Funnel.' The fields and lakes in this areas sandwiched between the Alps and Jura mountains seem to attract a lot of migrants and the most dedicated of Swiss vagrant hunters as well.<br />
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Our 'best' bird here was a Red-throated Pipit. We also spotted a Little Owl using a nest box, a rare breeder in Switzerland.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Pgpme2r9hNU/WSr5HZK_rRI/AAAAAAABfb0/TqFCIQxPbecFMaVepCH7sQFrHJiRgWWuQCLcB/s1600/Eurasian%2BKestrel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1352" data-original-width="1600" height="540" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Pgpme2r9hNU/WSr5HZK_rRI/AAAAAAABfb0/TqFCIQxPbecFMaVepCH7sQFrHJiRgWWuQCLcB/s640/Eurasian%2BKestrel.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Swiss provide government housing for needy people and birds alike. This Eurasian Kestrel welfare queen lives in 'The Funnel'</td></tr>
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But our favorite Swiss birding area and the one that produced the most interesting birds for us this spring was in Ticino. Lying on southern slope of the Alps, this area concentrates refueling migrants before they make transit through an Alpine pass. As a bonus the Ticinans speak Italian and the food is great.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7VmINuXOzwU/WSr5IcJRpxI/AAAAAAABfb8/4mORgnYeO_ESYdnePDvIy5PNCWJXl-QQwCLcB/s1600/Red-footed%2BFalcon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="672" data-original-width="882" height="486" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7VmINuXOzwU/WSr5IcJRpxI/AAAAAAABfb8/4mORgnYeO_ESYdnePDvIy5PNCWJXl-QQwCLcB/s640/Red-footed%2BFalcon.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We had a banner day for Red-footed Falcons, with 15 roosting together and then this lone female sitting in a field. Bolle di Magadino</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Xh5jrOTkOVU/WSr5JU29HbI/AAAAAAABfcA/qDRYvvy4Om4WNeYlRBnpe5uYVupknMV0wCLcB/s1600/Squacco%2BHeron%2BSpotted%2BRedshank%2BCommon%2BGreenshank.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="952" data-original-width="1600" height="380" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Xh5jrOTkOVU/WSr5JU29HbI/AAAAAAABfcA/qDRYvvy4Om4WNeYlRBnpe5uYVupknMV0wCLcB/s640/Squacco%2BHeron%2BSpotted%2BRedshank%2BCommon%2BGreenshank.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Squacco Heron is a nice bird to find in migration in Switzerland, especially when it's hanging out with a breeding plumage Spotted Redshank and some Common Greenshanks</td></tr>
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One of the benefits of having four scopes and five birders is that there's always a pair of eyes not peering down into a tube. While we were scoping the Squacco, Natalia spotted a female Little Crake lurking along the boardwalk behind our blind. She managed to get our attention just in time for it to hop up onto the boardwalk and scurry across into the reeds!<br />
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The crake was only bested by our birder friend Tim's spotting of an odd wagtail flocking with a field full of standard Whites following a plow.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v7u_Dkdse5Y/WSr5ISnP98I/AAAAAAABfb4/WgLZ_EXPDVM2AbjOtVbHvxV_K5ttUhZHACLcB/s1600/Pied%2BWagtail%2Bcomposite.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="983" data-original-width="1600" height="392" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v7u_Dkdse5Y/WSr5ISnP98I/AAAAAAABfb4/WgLZ_EXPDVM2AbjOtVbHvxV_K5ttUhZHACLcB/s640/Pied%2BWagtail%2Bcomposite.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The wagtail turned out to be a Pied Wagtail, also known as 'British White Wagtail' following the serial split/lump saga that characterizes the White Wagtail superspecies. The Swiss bird police want documentation for this subspecies and this composite is the image I sent in with my report. Hope it gets accepted!</td></tr>
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We also did some birding down in Sicily this spring while visiting a Sicilian friend of Natalia's. This Italian island (note: not a part of Switzerland) is famous for its raptor migration, but the winds were wrong, so we opted to spend our limited time searching for mountain and wetland birds.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dwaQdtCparY/WSr9V3cziEI/AAAAAAABfc4/PchDWkgD6xUw8XCtgmpfpbshjklCCkCYgCLcB/s1600/Subalpine%2BWarbler.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1090" data-original-width="1600" height="434" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dwaQdtCparY/WSr9V3cziEI/AAAAAAABfc4/PchDWkgD6xUw8XCtgmpfpbshjklCCkCYgCLcB/s640/Subalpine%2BWarbler.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We dipped on the 'Sicilian' Rock Partridge, allegedly an endemic subspecies, but this Subalpine Warbler consoled us with a territorial show. Sicily</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Cs3lV4_P8bY/WSr9UOA7ClI/AAAAAAABfc0/kLvw2OJ1gk0NcrLE6-8rU9eKqMpEPXYGACLcB/s1600/Corn%2BBunting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1079" data-original-width="1600" height="430" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Cs3lV4_P8bY/WSr9UOA7ClI/AAAAAAABfc0/kLvw2OJ1gk0NcrLE6-8rU9eKqMpEPXYGACLcB/s640/Corn%2BBunting.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After a lot of misses in Switzerland, we finally saw our first Corn Bunting (and what a drab brown beauty it was). Sicily</td></tr>
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Even by land-locked country standards, Switzerland is remarkably depauperate in shorebird habitat. Yeah, you can find some Common Sandpipers and Little Ringed Plovers gleaning the gravel bars along rivers and Eurasian Whimbrels are conspicuous enough in the bare farm fields, but there just aren't any mud or sand flats to serve up that buffet of abundant and diverse waders that a coastal birder craves.<br />
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The Vendicari wetland in Sicily more than made up for all the shorebird-less Swiss birding days.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9_8Mdyw-cgA/WSr9WgkXrVI/AAAAAAABfc8/8FWcY2CAPR0XSi5OU6kVmM2Vbud0zL5bgCLcB/s1600/Little%2BStints.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="860" data-original-width="1600" height="342" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9_8Mdyw-cgA/WSr9WgkXrVI/AAAAAAABfc8/8FWcY2CAPR0XSi5OU6kVmM2Vbud0zL5bgCLcB/s640/Little%2BStints.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Always nice to spend some quality time with Little Stints. These probably occur regularly as vagrants in North Carolina, but they are just so damn tricky to separate from American peeps...</td></tr>
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In short order we had amassed a list of 15 shorebird species, besting our total for all of Switzerland, at one site in just a couple hours. Even Natalia, a self-proclaimed shorebird skeptic, admitted that birding Vendicari was a special experience.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wSr1aDp8ZSk/WSr9X4Mr0II/AAAAAAABfdA/5K4gF3BAoVcRXdDJj4436tFMfK78NOqlQCLcB/s1600/Wood%2BSandpiper%2Band%2BReeves.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="507" data-original-width="1600" height="202" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wSr1aDp8ZSk/WSr9X4Mr0II/AAAAAAABfdA/5K4gF3BAoVcRXdDJj4436tFMfK78NOqlQCLcB/s640/Wood%2BSandpiper%2Band%2BReeves.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Can you find the Wood Sandpiper lurking among the female Ruffs ('Reeves')? (hint: it looks super scared that you'll notice it)</td></tr>
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Natalia and I are off to the 'New World' for a couple months.When we return to Europe in August we will find plenty of low-hanging lifers to find out there in Switzerland and beyond.<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09036340024818230677noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2751020401972674507.post-17752333956468391862017-04-07T05:34:00.001-04:002017-04-07T05:49:43.706-04:00Birding Iguazu Falls and Misiones<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Unlike <a href="http://birdaholic.blogspot.ch/2017/01/birding-asuncion-paraguay.html">Asuncion</a>, you, dear reader, are reasonably
likely to wind up one day in Argentina’s northernmost province of Misiones. Puerto Iguazu
is the jumping off point for the National Park that offers spectacular views of
the world’s greatest waterfall and it's also the richest birding region of Argentina.<br />
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I know we're here for birds, but some quick thoughts on the waterfall are in order. In reality, Iguazu is a sprawling complex of
more than 100 individual cascades. Extensive networks of boardwalks on both
Argentinian and Brazilian sides give visitors terrifyingly close views of so
many gushing torrents. So much water vapor hangs in the air that every view is
inevitably embellished by a perfect rainbow adding to the overall sense of
magic to the place.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4lEE0K2dRhY/WNujQnIOt0I/AAAAAAABeoo/rNgqCkBTtl0ScfKmqF71brcIk2mMoVYZwCLcB/s1600/Iguazu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="330" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4lEE0K2dRhY/WNujQnIOt0I/AAAAAAABeoo/rNgqCkBTtl0ScfKmqF71brcIk2mMoVYZwCLcB/s640/Iguazu.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's hard to do this place justice with photos, but here's a small part of Iguazu Falls</td></tr>
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The magic is somewhat dampened by the crush of crowds. We
happened to visit during an Argentinian holiday, so families with noisy and
unruly children were especially dense. We were able to circumvent the worst of
the frustrations by queuing up at the entrance prior to opening. And despite the throngs, the park was
actually rather birdy.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eared Pygmy-Tyrant, Iguazu Falls</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wC1k4WZHvtg/WNuhpBggn6I/AAAAAAABem8/oKwGiAN2N4YZFHj4pjm1IzcYNqqlA4qkwCLcB/s1600/Plush-crested%2BJay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wC1k4WZHvtg/WNuhpBggn6I/AAAAAAABem8/oKwGiAN2N4YZFHj4pjm1IzcYNqqlA4qkwCLcB/s640/Plush-crested%2BJay.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plush-crested Jays are trash birds at Iguazu. Literally. They stand on the railings hoping the tourists will feed them trash.</td></tr>
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One bird highlight are the Great Dusky Swifts which are endemic to the area.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PG5OOkjEoz8/WNuhw9lJsNI/AAAAAAABenU/hSAFW-dqIuU6HwUYeb5qYCQldXU8CAP2wCLcB/s1600/Swifts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="534" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PG5OOkjEoz8/WNuhw9lJsNI/AAAAAAABenU/hSAFW-dqIuU6HwUYeb5qYCQldXU8CAP2wCLcB/s640/Swifts.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Great Dusky Swifts nest at Garganta del Diablo (the Devil's Throat), the most intense part of the falls, accessible from the Argentinian side via a long elevated boardwalk. Obsessive birders justify visiting the waterfall by the opportunity to tick this unremarkable birder's bird.</td></tr>
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But for some more serious birding we knew we would have to
get off the beaten track a bit. After suffering with no guide <a href="http://birdaholic.blogspot.ch/2016/12/birding-bolivia.html">in Bolivia</a> and <a href="http://birdaholic.blogspot.ch/2017/01/birding-asuncion-paraguay.html">an inept guide in Paraguay</a>, we were keen to make the most of our time in the
Atlantic Forest of Misiones and coughed up some serious cash for a 5-day tour
with Ornithologist and renowned bird guide, Guy Cox.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pu4SuJozdtU/WOY8BRwCwuI/AAAAAAABesY/hND2q77ylLcF0z37rs0bvCK0WMS-q9kGwCLcB/s1600/misiones%2Bbirding%2Broute.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="552" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pu4SuJozdtU/WOY8BRwCwuI/AAAAAAABesY/hND2q77ylLcF0z37rs0bvCK0WMS-q9kGwCLcB/s640/misiones%2Bbirding%2Broute.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our 5-day route with Guy Cox, starting in Puerto Iguazu (A), birding the Iguazu National Park (B), camping at Parque Provincial Urugua'i (C), a cushy stay at Reserva Karadya (D), then backtracking north to lovely Surucua Lodge (E), then a long haul south to Guy's place in San Pedro (F) for birding in Parque Provincial Araucaria just behind his house and nearby Cruce Caballero (G). After we left Guy we stayed a night at the inferior San Sebastian across the road from Karadya (D) before crossing into Brazil back at Puerto Iguazu (A). </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cmOmZ-nfZsk/WNuiwp69Q2I/AAAAAAABen4/uCT_bG29epck1KbKqonFv8B17ze6Kd6HgCLcB/s1600/team%2Bphoto.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cmOmZ-nfZsk/WNuiwp69Q2I/AAAAAAABen4/uCT_bG29epck1KbKqonFv8B17ze6Kd6HgCLcB/s640/team%2Bphoto.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Guy, his doggie, us and his unreliable van</td></tr>
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A quick aside about the Argentinian economy: the nation is
still suffering (or at least was in July 2016) from the latest in what seems to be a never-ending series of
economic/financial crises. I had always heard about how these tend to make
things cheap for anybody possessing a much-coveted stable foreign currency, but the
situation appeared to be the opposite, with everybody charging based on what
they anticipate to be the diminished value of the peso 3 months down the road.
Basically most things cost about the same as the would in North Carolina,
except that the largest denomination note, the 100 peso bill, is worth about
$7. So one must carry around absurd wads of cash. 21st century hyperinflation!<o:p></o:p></div>
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After getting a handle on the actual cost of Argentinian
goods and services, we realized Guy wasn’t completely ripping us off (as I had
wondered when he first sent the quote). And for birds, he’s certainly the real
deal. Guy has decades of experience with ornithological work in Peru and
Bolivia, rubbing elbows with the late great Ted Parker. He’s somebody whose
identifications can been trusted.<o:p></o:p></div>
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We asked Guy for the cheapest tour possible, which meant we
cut quite a few corners in terms of food and accommodation. We signed up to
stay one night camping and one night sleeping on the floor of Guy’s house. The two other nights were spent at rather
luxurious eco-lodges, so the contrasts were rather stark. Guy’s strengths
certainly lie with birds and not hospitality, so I’d certainly recommend you
weigh your wallet and options carefully before making the arrangement we did.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Before the tour began, we visited the Jardin de los Picaflores—a
can’t miss, for the birder or photographer. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A2r3BzCs2L0/WNujTsYSfLI/AAAAAAABeo8/r4ajzfCnnXcA9a8c6a6UM2ttz8NybFOHQCLcB/s1600/forktail%2Bhummingbird%2Bthing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="514" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A2r3BzCs2L0/WNujTsYSfLI/AAAAAAABeo8/r4ajzfCnnXcA9a8c6a6UM2ttz8NybFOHQCLcB/s640/forktail%2Bhummingbird%2Bthing.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Swallow-tailed Hummingbird, the coolest and rarest of the eight regular hummers present at Jardin de Los Picaflores in winter</td></tr>
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Guy picked us up at our aptly named ‘Swift Hotel’ in his
boxy green van to bird along the old Iguazu park entrance road. This is
ideal for birding as the road gets little traffic and offers great views of the
forest edge and canopy. But just an hour into our tour the wheels literally
fell off the wagon. While navigating a three-point-turn, Guy announced a
problem and jumped out to investigate. His gentle English lilt didn’t break,
but when he sputtered his third consecutive “Oh dear…” we knew there was a
serious problem.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ioPEvsWlZIA/WNuitPOjqSI/AAAAAAABen0/1h4wgGADIRccKxjcMuGrDxWuDP_oh95SwCLcB/s1600/van%2Bsmoke.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="369" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ioPEvsWlZIA/WNuitPOjqSI/AAAAAAABen0/1h4wgGADIRccKxjcMuGrDxWuDP_oh95SwCLcB/s640/van%2Bsmoke.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Guy's van, even while at peak performance isn't exactly a dream boat. The inside reeks of diesel and burnt oil and the cacophony from the motor make conversations difficult, which is a shame because Guy's an interesting guy to talk to. He told us he's looking to unload this box and get a new bird-mobile (we wish him luck with that!!)</td></tr>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
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So we left Guy to sort out his broken axel strut and
continued birding along the road on foot. Thankfully it was pretty birdy, so we didn’t
have to roll our eyes at each other to entertain ourselves. Incredibly, Guy
managed to get a taxi into town for the replacement part, make it back to the
vehicle and get it mended in about 3 hours, so we were back on track without
too much of a loss. Give him some credit for resourcefulness.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-adA046m9ZI0/WNujS20n2RI/AAAAAAABeo4/lfbxzZxV7pMmI9oGr-SJKVxmic33MZDtwCLcB/s1600/Nunlet2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="412" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-adA046m9ZI0/WNujS20n2RI/AAAAAAABeo4/lfbxzZxV7pMmI9oGr-SJKVxmic33MZDtwCLcB/s640/Nunlet2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This Rusty-breasted Nunlet tried to keep us entertained by sitting completely still (as nun/puff-things are want to do)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FDi0JlMd6BY/WNuh4jvw1XI/AAAAAAABens/mNa8D9-6uOANGBF36p2mZMNbZwBknDrOgCLcB/s1600/Xenops%2Bnest.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="416" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FDi0JlMd6BY/WNuh4jvw1XI/AAAAAAABens/mNa8D9-6uOANGBF36p2mZMNbZwBknDrOgCLcB/s640/Xenops%2Bnest.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This Streaked Xenops was a bit livelier, giving us some nest excavation action. </td></tr>
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With the van mended, we headed for Urugua'i, an important area for some targets that like dense bamboo thickets.
This site has some sort of weird microclimate going which reminded us that we
were no longer properly in the tropics. It was cold and foggy, so terrible conditions for photos, but the birds were interesting. We had a Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper working a concrete edge just by the highway overpass and saw Rufous Gnateater along the trail loop.<br />
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We weren’t well-prepared for camping in
near-freezing conditions and so had a rough night huddled together under filthy
blankets in the back of Guy’s van (he stayed in a tent). This was after an
uninspired dinner of canned sardines. Guy’s a far better birder than he is a
chef. Thankfully Natalia had anticipated this problem and bought some crackers
and soup earlier (she hates canned fish).<o:p></o:p></div>
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In the morning we were treated to some sunshine and a beautiful pair of Blond-crested Woodpeckers made a happy interruption to our breakfast. After birding the trails at Urugua'i and getting some targets, like the Blackish-blue Seedeater and White-eyed Foliage-Gleaner (both regional endemics and bamboo specialists) we
continued onward. <br />
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At Bio Reserva Karadya the manager and resident birder, Julian, rolled out the red carpet for us. He served us a delicious lunch and then showed us to our tower room, which has a
roof deck serving as a canopy tower. The
moment we arrived, a mixed species flock happened to be working the area.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mud2y0YyxTs/WNujL7VYMvI/AAAAAAABeoM/grcsm9uus_ksYDU0OP_Uk9OS-4Sj0mpZQCLcB/s1600/CIP%2BPenthouse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mud2y0YyxTs/WNujL7VYMvI/AAAAAAABeoM/grcsm9uus_ksYDU0OP_Uk9OS-4Sj0mpZQCLcB/s640/CIP%2BPenthouse.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The VIP canopy tower penthouse at Karadya. Highly recommended.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cqq3HEmFYqo/WNuhtbmMEoI/AAAAAAABenA/zjt9ABl9wEoj0QIQjnRH3SVejWHgZqiVgCLcB/s1600/Rufous-bellied%2BThrush.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="468" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cqq3HEmFYqo/WNuhtbmMEoI/AAAAAAABenA/zjt9ABl9wEoj0QIQjnRH3SVejWHgZqiVgCLcB/s640/Rufous-bellied%2BThrush.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Instead of American Robins there are Rufous-bellied Thrushes in Misiones.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CLB8gncrx5I/WNujI0HLG8I/AAAAAAABeoA/G5qaei_P66YKAlqE-ULDaShHvriNF5N1wCLcB/s1600/Antshrike.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="440" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CLB8gncrx5I/WNujI0HLG8I/AAAAAAABeoA/G5qaei_P66YKAlqE-ULDaShHvriNF5N1wCLcB/s640/Antshrike.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We didn't score a ton of specialist/target birds at Karadya for whatever reason, but the food was so good we didn't care. This Variable Antshrike put in a special effort to make us happy and that can go a long way.</td></tr>
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It turns out Julian is an ornithologist himself, and in between serving
up insanely delicious meals would lead us to spots for tricky target species,
like Planalto Tapaculo or White-shouldered Fire-eye. While we ate he would
tell us about the Harpy Eagle nest he used to monitor—the last known breeding
record for Argentina. Sadly the nesting site has since been abandoned. He also showed us a frozen carcass of a
Violacious Quail-Dove, which crashed into one of the lodge’s windows. Once
accepted by the authorities it will be Argentina’s first official record of the
species.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tYrgRAQWups/WNuhtl_IwyI/AAAAAAABenI/AWDBxozMjMMIUqeilWO2XXw4FWEbog3PgCLcB/s1600/Sapphire%2BQuail-Dove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="356" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tYrgRAQWups/WNuhtl_IwyI/AAAAAAABenI/AWDBxozMjMMIUqeilWO2XXw4FWEbog3PgCLcB/s640/Sapphire%2BQuail-Dove.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Argentina's first record of Violacious Quail-Dove. More proof that inanimate objects are better field biologists that people.</td></tr>
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We would have gladly stayed several days with Julian, but we
had other sites to see, so no time to delay.
Luckily we found our top target in the gardens behind the lodge at the
last minute: a flock of Saffron Toucanets.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZvuxbRxK-qI/WNuhtW8k48I/AAAAAAABenE/4opFLZxP8oER33Mopl26MFAjcunQK9uAQCLcB/s1600/Saffron%2BToucanet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="456" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZvuxbRxK-qI/WNuhtW8k48I/AAAAAAABenE/4opFLZxP8oER33Mopl26MFAjcunQK9uAQCLcB/s640/Saffron%2BToucanet.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This Saffron Toucanet showed up with a flock in the gardens at Karadya, the only ones we saw on the tour.</td></tr>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Our next stop was the Surucua Lodge, named for the Surucua
Trogon. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kQpCPhITpz0/WNuhwoNZZ4I/AAAAAAABenM/sj0CjPUQNlU9pLD8Zqlj5vvOcX2sVbQowCLcB/s1600/Toco%2BToucan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="368" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kQpCPhITpz0/WNuhwoNZZ4I/AAAAAAABenM/sj0CjPUQNlU9pLD8Zqlj5vvOcX2sVbQowCLcB/s640/Toco%2BToucan.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the road to Surucua there were some fruiting trees loaded with Toco Toucans (at least 20), so we stopped for the obligatory picture of this common but iconic bird.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jZZufU4aTt4/WNuh1cnB7QI/AAAAAAABenc/bYGEyz9qJLE3aRKoX7lGwjQiiBeXn2vtgCLcB/s1600/Trogon%2Bmale.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="542" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jZZufU4aTt4/WNuh1cnB7QI/AAAAAAABenc/bYGEyz9qJLE3aRKoX7lGwjQiiBeXn2vtgCLcB/s640/Trogon%2Bmale.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The male Surucua Trogon for which Surucua Lodge is named.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iW3InGzZKa4/WNuh1lXgroI/AAAAAAABeng/yLUnKlrl_ZsRawfdWckZfCaH73t6hflEgCLcB/s1600/Trogon%2Bfemale.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="574" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iW3InGzZKa4/WNuh1lXgroI/AAAAAAABeng/yLUnKlrl_ZsRawfdWckZfCaH73t6hflEgCLcB/s640/Trogon%2Bfemale.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Female Surucua. Trogons are just as easy to photograph in Argentina as they are in the rest of the Americas.</td></tr>
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This lodge is gorgeous and
boasts an extensive network of trails through pristine forest abutting the Iguazu River as the trogon flies, not too far upstream from Iguazu Falls. The
food was exquisite, rivaling that of Karadya and the couple who own/manage the place bent over backwards
to make sure our every need was met. Laura did the cooking and Adrian came out with us birding. It always helps to have a local birder on hand
to help with targeting and we knocked off many of the species that had eluded
us in previous days.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G8Q5K4SYa_c/WNujIrWz5DI/AAAAAAABen8/XzmA7D6uRLQxiTbPnrRbudVbsQ-NNU4uQCLcB/s1600/Antwren%2Bthing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="388" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G8Q5K4SYa_c/WNujIrWz5DI/AAAAAAABen8/XzmA7D6uRLQxiTbPnrRbudVbsQ-NNU4uQCLcB/s640/Antwren%2Bthing.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bertoni's Antbirds never stop moving, so it took a good bit of effort to catch one in frame without stick-face</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GmvLAwYpQwA/WNujOv1CB6I/AAAAAAABeoc/xlAjIEzO26YoJPti5kYYDm9BB-ILEW7lQCLcB/s1600/Flycatcher%2Bsp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="506" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GmvLAwYpQwA/WNujOv1CB6I/AAAAAAABeoc/xlAjIEzO26YoJPti5kYYDm9BB-ILEW7lQCLcB/s640/Flycatcher%2Bsp.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This Gray-hooded Flycatcher decided to come sit on a branch within 5 meters of us, so I was able to catch a decent shot despite the poor light.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Z5iQBmkDUeU/WNujOD8fQVI/AAAAAAABeoY/VtWQ6J3c1ooAMzXCmymxSs3-ATKS-hQggCLcB/s1600/Flame%2BManakin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="402" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Z5iQBmkDUeU/WNujOD8fQVI/AAAAAAABeoY/VtWQ6J3c1ooAMzXCmymxSs3-ATKS-hQggCLcB/s640/Flame%2BManakin.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Band-tailed Manakin is arguably one of Misiones' prettiest birds. Thankfully, they're fairly common.</td></tr>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SEh6NIMZo7k/WNuhomfWg3I/AAAAAAABem4/hBn1yKclFEofz3pa-qflU9q2T2Zpj45AwCLcB/s1600/Rufescent%2BTiger-Heron.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="444" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SEh6NIMZo7k/WNuhomfWg3I/AAAAAAABem4/hBn1yKclFEofz3pa-qflU9q2T2Zpj45AwCLcB/s640/Rufescent%2BTiger-Heron.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A puddle next to the Surucua Lodge has an attendant Rufescent Tiger-Heron (juvie)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fsUTIvzvyqA/WNujPJvsMjI/AAAAAAABeog/UzY9Y967eCEHQDLqOntDfrTPyMh7rF9VwCLcB/s1600/Flycatcher%2Bthing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="458" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fsUTIvzvyqA/WNujPJvsMjI/AAAAAAABeog/UzY9Y967eCEHQDLqOntDfrTPyMh7rF9VwCLcB/s640/Flycatcher%2Bthing.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Large-headed Flatbill... maybe it's the angle of the photo, but the head didn't seem to be especially large. One of those names an uninspired taxonomist with calipers came up with.</td></tr>
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Best of all was the Spot-billed Toucanet, which I finally
managed to spot in the canopy after we had been frantically trying to locate an
unseen calling bird overhead.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Cru77fbnkHQ/WNuhwrPy4tI/AAAAAAABenQ/dHmRh0MVWms1kz7QhnilF_7bN-qwTPDkgCLcB/s1600/Spot-billed%2BToucanet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="410" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Cru77fbnkHQ/WNuhwrPy4tI/AAAAAAABenQ/dHmRh0MVWms1kz7QhnilF_7bN-qwTPDkgCLcB/s640/Spot-billed%2BToucanet.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spot-billed Toucanet way up in the canopy at Surucua</td></tr>
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Surucua Lodge was another spot where we would have been glad
to linger for several days, but on we went to Guy’s House in the ramshackle
town of San Pedro. The trash-strewn dirt street haunted by stray dogs gives the
area a bit of an un-enticing appearance. The aesthetic of Guy’s house matches
that of the surrounding town. As he attempted to make order of the chaos inside
and meet the demands of his wife and two children he advised us to find
something to cook ourselves for dinner. His guest quarters are a mattress on
the floor with dirty blankets and he struggled to find us towels so we could
shower.<o:p></o:p></div>
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I’ve certainly done my time living in squalor and wouldn’t
begrudge Guy for helping us save money by letting us stay at his place, but the
conditions were a bit of a shock following on the heels of the pampering we had
received at Karadya and Surucua. <br />
<br />
The reward for enduring a stay at Guy’s place is that his backyard is,
literally the entrance to Parque Provincial Araucaria, one of the few remnant patches of
Dr. Suess-like Araucaria trees. Long favored by loggers for their tall,
straight and branchless trunks, these trees have been all but driven to
extinction (97% loss). A few obligate bird species cling to existence in the remnants,
such as the Vinaceous-breasted Parrot, an endangered bird that exists
almost exclusively behind Guy’s house.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OuaEI9PEWyk/WOZa6nEmOFI/AAAAAAABetg/8Y8R7dd5KaUXqDkqSGJaT8SvG1YVs5MTACLcB/s1600/Araucaria%2Btrees.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OuaEI9PEWyk/WOZa6nEmOFI/AAAAAAABetg/8Y8R7dd5KaUXqDkqSGJaT8SvG1YVs5MTACLcB/s640/Araucaria%2Btrees.jpg" width="568" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Araucaria angustifolia or 'Candalabra Pine,' a critically endangered tree</td></tr>
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The park behind Guy’s house also contains a few rare patches
of cane, where, if you can dodge the truant children, loose dogs and mentally
ill bums, you might be able to glimpse the Canebrake Groundcreeper. After some
persistence and playback we were able to get decent looks at one.</div>
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The only place we had Red-breasted Toucan, the last toucan we needed in Argentina, was in Guy's yard.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HjPg_WyNK7A/WNujR2VQ5tI/AAAAAAABeos/CfmzFbKze7Y_bEavtBxiX6Slht5sWYBvwCLcB/s1600/Green-billed%2BToucan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="576" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HjPg_WyNK7A/WNujR2VQ5tI/AAAAAAABeos/CfmzFbKze7Y_bEavtBxiX6Slht5sWYBvwCLcB/s640/Green-billed%2BToucan.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red-breasted Toucan were flocking to the planted fruit trees near Guy's house</td></tr>
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San Pedro is just down the road from another important remnant of Araucaria trees at Parque Provincial Cruce Caballero. We birded here on our final morning with Guy and were disappointed to find the trails dead silent. Where were all the birds? Of course when we returned to the parking lot, the activity was manic, proving one of Natalia's favorite birding axioms: the best birds are always in the parking lot to reward the lazy.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jyNzLcmh7OY/WNujSdKKyqI/AAAAAAABeo0/48qsPIEpdjM7X1B_w_TEaTDnTxoS_3AkQCLcB/s1600/Nunlet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="484" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jyNzLcmh7OY/WNujSdKKyqI/AAAAAAABeo0/48qsPIEpdjM7X1B_w_TEaTDnTxoS_3AkQCLcB/s640/Nunlet.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our third Rusty-breasted Nunlet of the trip. We couldn't seem to avoid these things.</td></tr>
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<o:p>Here we had the most special of specialists, the Araucaria Tit-Spinetail.</o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1euiWkZMVzU/WOdYrLgo9fI/AAAAAAABeuA/mmEXgpeplcInFg00D748v2i75qI7H4qbACLcB/s1600/Araucaria%2BTit-Spinetail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="392" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1euiWkZMVzU/WOdYrLgo9fI/AAAAAAABeuA/mmEXgpeplcInFg00D748v2i75qI7H4qbACLcB/s640/Araucaria%2BTit-Spinetail.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Araucaria Tit-Spinetail is completely dependent on the critically endangered Candalabra Pine, and yet the bird is only listed as Near-threatened... c;mon IUCN; what the hell.</td></tr>
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We also scored a pair of Pavonine Cuckoo thanks to Guy's keen ear.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UAi_gm7lkCA/WNuhnhewZOI/AAAAAAABem0/iLMcDhmLv0IzGCjhGZ2uim8mllgF_CEIQCLcB/s1600/Pavonine%2BCuckoo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="594" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UAi_gm7lkCA/WNuhnhewZOI/AAAAAAABem0/iLMcDhmLv0IzGCjhGZ2uim8mllgF_CEIQCLcB/s640/Pavonine%2BCuckoo.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Singing Pavonine Cuckoo through the tangle</td></tr>
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<o:p><br /></o:p>After one more swing through the Araucaria our tour with Guy ended, inconveniently enough with us stranded in San Pedro. Guy was nice enough to give us a small refund for the delay on the first morning, which ended up being just enough to buy us a taxi ride part way back north toward Puerto Iguazu. We had an extra day to bird, so we stopped at San Sebastian de la Selva, the across the street competition to Karadya. </div>
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The food at San Sebastian has nothing on Karadya or Surucua, but bird-wise it filled some important niches that the other sites had left empty. The layout is totally different than other places we had visited, with the gardens surrounding the cabins and lodge mostly open with a network of ponds of various sizes teaming with Capybara. Rounding a bend you would hear a terrifying splash only to realize it was just one of the gigantic pig-rats plunging into a pond. </div>
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Anyway, the water and surrounded shrubs attracted different types of scrub and edge birds (not lifers, but new for the trip) and then the feeders outside the dining area were very well-managed, providing some excellent photographic opportunities while waiting for lunch. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mdwAwZiN9Yg/WNujKmYQsNI/AAAAAAABeoI/5--Qo_OCVkQHDlXbZ__GOCLjeb_GC4PCQCLcB/s1600/Blue-and-yellow%2BTanager.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="546" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mdwAwZiN9Yg/WNujKmYQsNI/AAAAAAABeoI/5--Qo_OCVkQHDlXbZ__GOCLjeb_GC4PCQCLcB/s640/Blue-and-yellow%2BTanager.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blue-and-yellow Tanager, a feeder bird at San Sebastian</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="428" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BO050c29nws/WNujMEXkbXI/AAAAAAABeoQ/MOKPpx5gKocaz6m4r9PzE5X_yJGBZDP6gCLcB/s640/Chalk-browed%2BMockingbird.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chalk-browed Mockingbird, another feeder bird</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c9g5yxn4tdk/WNujPqyR78I/AAAAAAABeok/p785WenTKPIb6WOvcAmWK2JdsHD_wfGWQCLcB/s1600/Green%2Bsomething%2BTanager.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="394" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c9g5yxn4tdk/WNujPqyR78I/AAAAAAABeok/p785WenTKPIb6WOvcAmWK2JdsHD_wfGWQCLcB/s640/Green%2Bsomething%2BTanager.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Green-headed Tanager, gem of the San Sebastian feeders</td></tr>
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The good forest with important bamboo patches takes a bit of hiking uphill to reach, but if you arrange with the resident guide, Nene, he'll drive you up in his 4x4. Nene is clearly used to taking out hard core birders, as he knows how to tape out the specialist species. He showed us Variegated Antpitta and the Ocellated Bamboo-Wren (we dipped on the Speckled-breasted Antpitta, though). But Nene's a bit unpolished as far as guides go. His speaker system was belching out skull-splitting static, so he ended up using our iPod/speaker setup to call birds (lucky we had it!). But far worse was when he left us waiting shivering in the pre-dawn cold for him to emerge to take us birding. Why set a meeting time you aren't capable of making? When he did finally show up he didn't even seem to realize he was late or that being late was a problem.</div>
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<o:p>Generally, the experience one has staying at San Sebastian is one of irrelevance. Nene and his wife seemed completely ambivalent about our presence or happiness. I guess that's what happens when the owners of a place are absentee and leave others behind to manage. The price certainly doesn't reflect that this place is several notches below the other local lodges. Nevertheless, we still picked up six lifers here in 24 hours after five days of birding the region and it's got the best feeder setup.</o:p></div>
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We were able to catch a bus back to Puerto Iguazu and make our way into Brazil for a series of flights back to the US.<br />
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This concludes our post-graduation tour of South America. I hope you've enjoyed the arm chair ride!</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09036340024818230677noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2751020401972674507.post-8133907087075074232017-03-22T16:53:00.003-04:002017-03-23T06:53:10.328-04:00The Swiss birding squad<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Even for somebody like me who has been through the process a few times, moving to a new continent can be a bit intimidating. On top of all the usual challenges in navigating a new culture and physical setting, the critical support networks of friends and families are left behind.<br />
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With Natalia off in southeast Asia I was left on my own to bird in a strange Swiss land. The forecast had looked good, but an unexpected dense fog shrouded the landscape, as well as the birds, at the local hotspot, "Katzenseen."<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-97YNYSBRbxE/WMaHCoidRQI/AAAAAAABeik/170iAh2mXlwcpo_uHYFceNE43UMh9USCwCLcB/s1600/P1140823.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-97YNYSBRbxE/WMaHCoidRQI/AAAAAAABeik/170iAh2mXlwcpo_uHYFceNE43UMh9USCwCLcB/s640/P1140823.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The dense fog at Katzenseen. I felt like I was more likely to encounter an advancing infantry front than a bird.</td></tr>
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My early wake-up and pre-dawn arrival proved to be pointless, as I wandered around destitute in the haze for hours while silhouettes of migrating Goldfinches and Fieldfares swirled around in the colorless treetops. Passing hikers said unintelligible things to me. Greetings, presumably, though the Swiss-German accent to my untrained ear recalls more of a fork being dropped into a garbage disposal.<br />
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When the sun finally came out after several hours, I blinked at the beautiful landscape I had been until then unable to perceive. It was quite pretty and I could see the birding potential, but I was starving and it was time to retreat home for lunch. I would have to return another day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bKe07L5FZgw/WMaHCkh6jlI/AAAAAAABeig/8AYDa1Sdkhsqr79_Ir_lTpYCyKpFiKlOQCLcB/s1600/P1140841.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bKe07L5FZgw/WMaHCkh6jlI/AAAAAAABeig/8AYDa1Sdkhsqr79_Ir_lTpYCyKpFiKlOQCLcB/s640/P1140841.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After the fog lifts I can finally see where I am</td></tr>
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This was a bit of a lonely and inauspicious early go at Swiss birding for me, but thanks to <a href="http://www.telegraph.co.uk/men/thinking-man/rise-hipster-bird-watcher/">birding's growing popularity</a>, finding birder friends has become easier than ever. Within Natalia's work department alone we now know a half-dozen-or-so birders.<br />
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So armed with Natalia and some new friends I later returned to Katzenseen to give the place another go.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pIMFFHQMm94/WMaCP_lhrbI/AAAAAAABehk/31wW5cZI8LY9FBrwyXfd__6BGSpAknhNACLcB/s1600/group%2Bshot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="410" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pIMFFHQMm94/WMaCP_lhrbI/AAAAAAABehk/31wW5cZI8LY9FBrwyXfd__6BGSpAknhNACLcB/s640/group%2Bshot.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">bird squad at Katzenseen</td></tr>
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And of course it was so much more fun, even with a decent snow falling.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XbW5eYGX0ik/WMaCNBQhoAI/AAAAAAABehQ/1AgpUnhre-skZ17IFwTHckoLyWY39OgQwCLcB/s1600/European%2BRobin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="442" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XbW5eYGX0ik/WMaCNBQhoAI/AAAAAAABehQ/1AgpUnhre-skZ17IFwTHckoLyWY39OgQwCLcB/s640/European%2BRobin.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The ubiquitous European Robin eating fallen apples in the snow</td></tr>
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And this time birds were better and more interesting. Or perhaps it was just that having people along to listen to my jokes and pontifications.<br />
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'This treecreeper looks like it could be from Eurasia." This comedic gold would usually be left to bang around inside my own.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4QVhsxrA35s/WMaCO8-cXnI/AAAAAAABehY/CGObXsNRru0o07lYIQB0gYsYJeChsvvXwCLcB/s1600/Short-toed%2BTreecreeper.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="434" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4QVhsxrA35s/WMaCO8-cXnI/AAAAAAABehY/CGObXsNRru0o07lYIQB0gYsYJeChsvvXwCLcB/s640/Short-toed%2BTreecreeper.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'm finally starting to get a handle on the treecreepers. This is a Short-toed Treecreeper (note the long bill), not to be confused with the nearly identical Eurasian Treecreeper (both are common and widespread in Eurasia)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IkBIWUuxVFc/WMaCMxqP8eI/AAAAAAABehM/tnZ-nMriRCY347bM-5maajJ6EdCNmYEPQCLcB/s1600/Fieldfare.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IkBIWUuxVFc/WMaCMxqP8eI/AAAAAAABehM/tnZ-nMriRCY347bM-5maajJ6EdCNmYEPQCLcB/s640/Fieldfare.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally a decent look at a Fieldfare (if you're not snow blind). The Katzenseen apple orchard was loaded with Thrushes.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_tjCycJ0IT8/WMaCNjIb8QI/AAAAAAABehU/GuuzXL9LZhwId5Y0ARHPnnDIx5Y4x4trQCLcB/s1600/Black%2BWoodpecker.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="558" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_tjCycJ0IT8/WMaCNjIb8QI/AAAAAAABehU/GuuzXL9LZhwId5Y0ARHPnnDIx5Y4x4trQCLcB/s640/Black%2BWoodpecker.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wow, a Black Woodpecker excavating a nest! This is worth a video.</td></tr>
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Best of all, we had a target staked out.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MWknlkV5yfc/WMaCP6W-ytI/AAAAAAABehg/WTiA-N-aufo9OHDWYtdCeQolN-Nbiw9xgCLcB/s1600/Long-eared%2BOwl2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MWknlkV5yfc/WMaCP6W-ytI/AAAAAAABehg/WTiA-N-aufo9OHDWYtdCeQolN-Nbiw9xgCLcB/s640/Long-eared%2BOwl2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Long-eared Owl, the first I've seen since I saw my lifer in Rhode Island a full decade ago. Fun fact: my life list at that point was less than 300.</td></tr>
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Ashwin knew where a group of Long-eared Owls roost, and we were able to tally 11 of them peering out of a dense thicket.<br />
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Our report of the owls to eBird drew some attention, and not the hate mail that casually reporting an owl roost usually brings. Some birders from Basel reached out wanting some location details so they could chase. I offered to lead them to owls the following weekend and earned another couple birder friends. Daniel and Julie also happened to be professional conservation ecologists with a knack for whispering out Water Rails.<br />
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Since then I have had the chance to bird a few times at hotspots further afield thanks to my new friends' cars and willingness to drive.<br />
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The best, closest birding spot to Zurich is Lake Constanz, which offers an impressive spectacle of waterfowl mega-flocks (the best I've seen outside of North Carolina's Mattamuskeet NWR).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-035B8Y3lKqM/WMaCFizIOZI/AAAAAAABehI/6pODh-Z83z4kZk9ad2C3p8W-P3AwKEgggCLcB/s1600/Tufted%2BDucks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="388" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-035B8Y3lKqM/WMaCFizIOZI/AAAAAAABehI/6pODh-Z83z4kZk9ad2C3p8W-P3AwKEgggCLcB/s640/Tufted%2BDucks.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">small chunk of mostly Tufted Duck within a raft of 10,000 mixed with Greater Scaup and Common Pochard</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ioqu1IA6Pe0/WMaDYCTzxJI/AAAAAAABeh0/Ec1lK53nxL4QHhPYAs8RK4a4L9cQJ_xwgCLcB/s1600/Common%2BTeal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="388" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ioqu1IA6Pe0/WMaDYCTzxJI/AAAAAAABeh0/Ec1lK53nxL4QHhPYAs8RK4a4L9cQJ_xwgCLcB/s640/Common%2BTeal.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Let's take this opportunity to appreciate some of the common Eurasian Waterfowl, like this Eurasian (Common) Teal</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JtfIANl6l8A/WMaCFeQq0qI/AAAAAAABehA/hmP6l6pIHBY9HKZTZG0zGmq0eNjhmD8TQCLcB/s1600/Red-crested%2BPochard.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="278" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JtfIANl6l8A/WMaCFeQq0qI/AAAAAAABehA/hmP6l6pIHBY9HKZTZG0zGmq0eNjhmD8TQCLcB/s640/Red-crested%2BPochard.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Or these Red-crested Pochard (with a Great Crested Grebe), which Natalia considers to be the prettiest duck on the continent. My new Spanish birder friend Josep disagrees (the red bill is too gaudy, he says. I bet he also doesn't like women who wear lipstick).</td></tr>
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I had pretty low expectations about Swiss birding when I arrived here in the middle of Europe, but it's been surprisingly fun. Despite having birded a good bit in Greece and Scotland, I've managed to tick 22 lifers during the species-poor winter months.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eWyAQiIFSmY/WMaCFSh2uUI/AAAAAAABehE/dd8JCmQc40YYGKIpTuRw4JJj8UTrgms0gCLcB/s1600/Lesser%2BSpotted%2BWoodpecker.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="370" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eWyAQiIFSmY/WMaCFSh2uUI/AAAAAAABehE/dd8JCmQc40YYGKIpTuRw4JJj8UTrgms0gCLcB/s640/Lesser%2BSpotted%2BWoodpecker.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A recent lifer for me was Lesser Spotted Woodpecker (this one was at Lake Constanz). It may not look like much more than a Downy Woodpecker, but this can be a tricky bird to find.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6ytsgAvkPfA/WMaDYI2WcmI/AAAAAAABeh8/h1OkU0FxBDIdixblsbDZjRdbHQVBngcUwCLcB/s1600/Great%2BBittern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="364" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6ytsgAvkPfA/WMaDYI2WcmI/AAAAAAABeh8/h1OkU0FxBDIdixblsbDZjRdbHQVBngcUwCLcB/s640/Great%2BBittern.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After a lot of searching I finally found my first Great Bittern at Klingnauer Stausee</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VpFlOeTnDLg/WMaCFEDW5DI/AAAAAAABeg8/FHrCHWWkj78IPKsO06TCQ1HIcYN0taj_wCLcB/s1600/Garganey.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="406" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VpFlOeTnDLg/WMaCFEDW5DI/AAAAAAABeg8/FHrCHWWkj78IPKsO06TCQ1HIcYN0taj_wCLcB/s640/Garganey.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Digiscoped pic of my most recent Swiss lifer was Garganey, a bird I had dreamed of seeing as a vagrant in North Carolina. It proved to be easy enough to find at Lake Constanz in March.</td></tr>
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This success has all been thanks to my new Swiss-based birding friends (you know who you are). With migration around the corner, I'm sure I'll be out birding with them again soon!<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09036340024818230677noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2751020401972674507.post-44439385219464414072017-02-22T09:27:00.000-05:002017-02-22T09:27:17.450-05:00Birding Sabah (ahh)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This trip was planned at the last minute, as it wasn't clear whether Natalia would be able to extend her trip thanks to Malaysian Immigration's archaic attitudes toward Colombian Nationals. But once she sorted things at the migration office, the round trip tickets from Zurich to Kuala Lumpur (KL) for $457 convinced me that I couldn't afford to stay home for this one.<br />
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After the rough adventure of Kalimantan (see <a href="http://birdaholic.blogspot.ch/2016/10/the-kalimantan-krush.html">The Kalimantan Krush</a>), I had myself mentally braced for trying times as I flew to meet Natalia in Sabah. But the Malaysian part of Borneo proved to be a world apart from its Indonesian neighbor to the south.<br />
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When people say they are going birding in Borneo, there's better than a 99% chance they're hitting up Sabah, and for good reason. Over the past couple decades Sabah has fashioned itself into a kind of birder's Disney Land, with excellent accommodations, food, and wildlife-focused parks.<br />
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Mount Kinabalu National Park, certainly a must-visit for birders hoping to see some of Borneo's montane endemics, was our first stop.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--x-p75tKUtA/WKtFgkV2lBI/AAAAAAABcjk/9OOANifg_co-64amBmV2mS71JEaC3aaHQCLcB/s1600/Golden-naped%2BBarbet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="486" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--x-p75tKUtA/WKtFgkV2lBI/AAAAAAABcjk/9OOANifg_co-64amBmV2mS71JEaC3aaHQCLcB/s640/Golden-naped%2BBarbet.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Golden-naped Barbet, Mount Kinabalu - our first Bornean Endemic</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Dy_dbPzjNlI/WKtE1zsylxI/AAAAAAABcik/oX66c5YBJxszYjglDDVZ-23ONh0AEWqMwCLcB/s1600/Black-sided%2BFlowerpecker.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="412" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Dy_dbPzjNlI/WKtE1zsylxI/AAAAAAABcik/oX66c5YBJxszYjglDDVZ-23ONh0AEWqMwCLcB/s640/Black-sided%2BFlowerpecker.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black-sided (or 'Bornean') Flowerpecker, another endemic</td></tr>
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Most visitors to the park are non-birders who want to summit the 4000 m elevation peak, but the best bird action is along the power station road and excellent network of trails that crisscross pristine cloud forest habitats below 1900 m.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uMT6070Fp_k/WKtEopHFerI/AAAAAAABciQ/I7nkHFjf1NYGBknKy_2OexfLYd-9NMgFQCLcB/s1600/Ash-throated%2BMinivet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="388" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uMT6070Fp_k/WKtEopHFerI/AAAAAAABciQ/I7nkHFjf1NYGBknKy_2OexfLYd-9NMgFQCLcB/s640/Ash-throated%2BMinivet.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gray-chinned Minivet pair, Mount Kinabalu</td></tr>
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The most important bird targets here are the "Whitehead's Trio": Trogon, Broadbill and Spiderhunter, the latter of which graces the front cover of the Phillipps' field guide. We spent a couple days prowling the park and while 52 doesn't sound like an impressive bird list, 14 of these were Bornean endemics, including the Whitehead's Spiderhunter and crippling views of a Whitehead's Broadbill.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1r7x4kl1k5U/WKtGOKZbuFI/AAAAAAABck4/GvWINApmAb8V0_IWKtNfCcA0BjEgcvo-ACLcB/s1600/Whitehead%2527s%2BBroadbill1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="484" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1r7x4kl1k5U/WKtGOKZbuFI/AAAAAAABck4/GvWINApmAb8V0_IWKtNfCcA0BjEgcvo-ACLcB/s640/Whitehead%2527s%2BBroadbill1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Whitehead's Broadbill, a highly sought-after Bornean endemic</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-chfagxkMM50/WKtGTiMZmzI/AAAAAAABclE/g4Gej8nTedssKIa455y2hWpb28vIIm8TgCLcB/s1600/Whitehead%2527s%2BBroadbill2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-chfagxkMM50/WKtGTiMZmzI/AAAAAAABclE/g4Gej8nTedssKIa455y2hWpb28vIIm8TgCLcB/s640/Whitehead%2527s%2BBroadbill2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">that's the stuff; nice spot Natalia!</td></tr>
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The Park offers such excellent access to so many range-restricted species that it also popular with biologists and a very large proportion of the birds we saw sported color bands.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R0arLG4_pOk/WKtFIgKKhgI/AAAAAAABcjE/FdSwXFP0nIA7zTOG6e9XgoIKiJNKS_QOwCLcB/s1600/Bornean%2BWhistling-Thrush.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="486" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R0arLG4_pOk/WKtFIgKKhgI/AAAAAAABcjE/FdSwXFP0nIA7zTOG6e9XgoIKiJNKS_QOwCLcB/s640/Bornean%2BWhistling-Thrush.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bornean Whistling-Thrush (an endemic) color-banded</td></tr>
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Most of the bird tours spend 3 or 4 days at the park, but it seemed like we had pretty much hit diminishing returns on the local bird life after just two, so we decided to check out Poring Hotsprings, which lived up to its reputation as 'boring poring.' The one trail is really steep and had few birds. We hiked around all morning and found only 22 species! The place does have a really cool canopy walkway, which unfortunately doesn't open until 8 am.<br />
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We continued on to the Rafflesia Information Center at the Crocker Range National Park, which is supposed to be better for some of the mountain endemics that are extra rare at Kinabalu. Birding here was also disappointing and of the endemic targets here (i.e. Fruithunter, Montane Barbet, Bornean Barbet to name a few) we only managed Bornean Bulbul. Despite the poor reviews, we had a pleasant stay at the nearby dilapidated Gunung Alab resort/motel.<br />
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Natalia had to get back to work co-instructing a forest ecology field course, so we flew Kota Kinabalu to Sandakan to join the group at Sepilok, which fortunately for us, is a kind of birding Mecca. The Rainforest Discovery Center at Sepilok has taken the concept of canopy walkway and canopy tower and to a new level. It has four steel towers of varying heights and a long stable and wide elevated walkway that links two of them. They have plans to eventually join all four towers with the walkway.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ntD3NRyN-60/WKtQbB-4HwI/AAAAAAABczk/HLH2yEySq3Y21EL5b-kDM6GfLKhG0sSkgCLcB/s1600/Natalia%2BSepilok.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ntD3NRyN-60/WKtQbB-4HwI/AAAAAAABczk/HLH2yEySq3Y21EL5b-kDM6GfLKhG0sSkgCLcB/s640/Natalia%2BSepilok.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Natalia at the Rainforest Discovery Center canopy walkway, Sepilok</td></tr>
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Although lowland Sabah forests have been devastated by the same wave of oil palm development that has Krushed Kalimantan, the big difference is that Sabah has not only set aside protected areas, but also aggressively developed them into ecotourism destinations. Sepilok is one such highly developed ecotourism destination. In reality it is just a small island of pristine forest in a sea of oil palm desert, but its a big enough oasis to support a lot of endangered, endemic and charasmatic wildlife and is now fringed by high-end resorts that bring in tourists from all over the world hoping to glimpse an orangutan or a bristlehead.<br />
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Speaking of bristlehead (i.e. Bornean Bristlehead) it is far and away the top target for birders at Sepilok. Heck, given that it's the sole species of the endemic Pityriaseidae family, it's arguably the most important bird in all of Borneo. The Phillipps' book advertises it as 'common' at Sepilok. While it may have been commonly viewed and photographed at Sepilok years ago, recent sightings have been few and far between. <br />
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We asked everybody with binoculars or a camera about the bristleheads, hoping for some local intelligence. Nobody had seen a bristlehead recently and yet everybody advocated for the same strategy: bird the canopy walkway in the early morning or the later afternoon and listen for their odd nasal calls. We spent a lot of time on the canopy walkway and I began to wonder if the Wallace's Hawk-Eagles nesting above it weren't part of the reason why the Bristleheads had become so shy.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WHs2EdIw3I8/WKtQa5GHLpI/AAAAAAABczg/CK1JYLaFNdcc8pn1TDejO4gtgGj2XTfJgCLcB/s1600/Wallace%2527s%2BHawk-Eagle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WHs2EdIw3I8/WKtQa5GHLpI/AAAAAAABczg/CK1JYLaFNdcc8pn1TDejO4gtgGj2XTfJgCLcB/s640/Wallace%2527s%2BHawk-Eagle.jpg" width="534" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wallace's Hawk-Eagle eating [something]. A pair was nesting almost directly above the Trogon Tower on the canopy walkway.</td></tr>
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One of the interns at the Sunbear Center told me it took her two years to see her first Bristlehead, so I pretty much wrote this bird off as a miss. Luckily there were plenty of other interesting birds around the canopy towers to marvel at while the Bristleheads didn't show.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TFggUKIlvtE/WKtFAnqllAI/AAAAAAABci0/6r_7pQGl8RQwBBEgmNd9IvKgM0Kb8aCeQCLcB/s1600/Blue-throated%2BBee-eater.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="412" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TFggUKIlvtE/WKtFAnqllAI/AAAAAAABci0/6r_7pQGl8RQwBBEgmNd9IvKgM0Kb8aCeQCLcB/s640/Blue-throated%2BBee-eater.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blue-throated Bee-Eater -- not a rare bird, but a looker indeed</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KBtO8oKMiYk/WKtF6BOUQMI/AAAAAAABckY/7Zg6ML7Z8-EmnzVcjsYaUiXBcV8_ALvfQCLcB/s1600/Ruby-cheeked%2BSunbird.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="378" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KBtO8oKMiYk/WKtF6BOUQMI/AAAAAAABckY/7Zg6ML7Z8-EmnzVcjsYaUiXBcV8_ALvfQCLcB/s640/Ruby-cheeked%2BSunbird.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ruby-cheeked Sunbird, another common attractive bird at Sepilok</td></tr>
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How about some Hornbills? Try the 27 m Hornbill Tower!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7cQXDteSrYU/WKtEtv6rf6I/AAAAAAABciU/_zsGtVcoIVMunAOXirxzhECmcCCzjg1LgCLcB/s1600/Black%2BHornbill.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7cQXDteSrYU/WKtEtv6rf6I/AAAAAAABciU/_zsGtVcoIVMunAOXirxzhECmcCCzjg1LgCLcB/s640/Black%2BHornbill.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Asian Black Hornbill (female)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XPdakFCyWaw/WKtFSO3RtDI/AAAAAAABcjQ/av8PnoPyEag8XPR4eOf8_bh18YAWUngZwCLcB/s1600/Bushy-crested%2BHornbill.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="512" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XPdakFCyWaw/WKtFSO3RtDI/AAAAAAABcjQ/av8PnoPyEag8XPR4eOf8_bh18YAWUngZwCLcB/s640/Bushy-crested%2BHornbill.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bushy-crested Hornbill</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WePtXWq-9fg/WKtFuqqbQAI/AAAAAAABckE/QJjXrcGEHXAve-ux7w9LQXOt9yzJzA2fgCLcB/s1600/Oriental%2BPied%2BHornbill.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="546" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WePtXWq-9fg/WKtFuqqbQAI/AAAAAAABckE/QJjXrcGEHXAve-ux7w9LQXOt9yzJzA2fgCLcB/s640/Oriental%2BPied%2BHornbill.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oriental Pied Hornbill</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
But there's only so much waiting one can do and there were certainly other birds for us to see along the trails. Many of the trip reports recommended the Kingfisher Trail, but other than a friendly Purple-naped Spiderhunter...<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KDFpftUxgCc/WKtFzKPAIDI/AAAAAAABckI/T6TD-GhCR2Q7B58vNtv7SicWHYP2SYlUQCLcB/s1600/Purple-naped%2BSpiderhunter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="572" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KDFpftUxgCc/WKtFzKPAIDI/AAAAAAABckI/T6TD-GhCR2Q7B58vNtv7SicWHYP2SYlUQCLcB/s640/Purple-naped%2BSpiderhunter.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Purple-naped Spiderhunter</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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...and Short-tailed Babbler...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0-YIZzSQPjU/WKtGBMz96qI/AAAAAAABckg/oGtqgB3E11UMWZqL7M1S2oNzQcgQqu2XACLcB/s1600/Short-tailed%2BBabbler.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="442" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0-YIZzSQPjU/WKtGBMz96qI/AAAAAAABckg/oGtqgB3E11UMWZqL7M1S2oNzQcgQqu2XACLcB/s640/Short-tailed%2BBabbler.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Short-tailed Babbler</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
... it was consistently pretty quiet. No sign of the Rufous-collared Kingfisher here (the one we wanted), in fact I walked that trail at least three times and only saw a Blue-eared Kingfisher (common bird) once, the only kingfisher we saw at Sepilok. It had been really dry and the creek level was low; this probably had something to do with it.<br />
<br />
We ended up having much better luck on the Pitta Trail. First we stumbled upon the elusive White-crowned Hornbill and then interrupted some sort of dispute between the two biggest of Bornean woodpeckers:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sDLXi4CS7Uc/WKtGLLXeyxI/AAAAAAABckw/csPVE3ycdbUkp4NvYMWvr-yrQhxOs493QCLcB/s1600/White-bellied%2BWoodpecker.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="558" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sDLXi4CS7Uc/WKtGLLXeyxI/AAAAAAABckw/csPVE3ycdbUkp4NvYMWvr-yrQhxOs493QCLcB/s640/White-bellied%2BWoodpecker.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This White-bellied Woodpecker (a <i>Dryocopus</i>, the same genus as North America's Pileated Woodpecker) seemed to get the better end of the deal and happily foraged on this fat rotting snag</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iIeWhZssw1E/WKtFlbVyIkI/AAAAAAABcj0/ZaXauFeCzAAXdbCCR_IPlwihUfofE1Z_ACLcB/s1600/Great%2BSlaty%2BWoodpecker.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="502" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iIeWhZssw1E/WKtFlbVyIkI/AAAAAAABcj0/ZaXauFeCzAAXdbCCR_IPlwihUfofE1Z_ACLcB/s640/Great%2BSlaty%2BWoodpecker.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All the while this Great Slaty Woodpecker (the world's largest Piciformes) scolded him from a nearby tree</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
And then we came upon an aggressive Black-crowned Antpitta (another endemic) that came charging out onto the trail when we played him some tape.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BE8-QfowO6c/WKtE1Q-mpBI/AAAAAAABcig/N7eLyToA6Mooa5oH_zQEA2XYCkWmFLhXwCLcB/s1600/Black-crowned%2BPitta.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="534" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BE8-QfowO6c/WKtE1Q-mpBI/AAAAAAABcig/N7eLyToA6Mooa5oH_zQEA2XYCkWmFLhXwCLcB/s640/Black-crowned%2BPitta.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black-crowned Antpitta, a Sepilok poster bird</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The last morning of Natalia's course I went out birding on my own and wasn't having a terribly productive time of it until I ran into another pair of birders I recognized from back at Kinabalu National Park. We had exchanged a few words with these guys as we criss-crossed paths time and again..just helpful bird sightings advice as friendly birders do in the field. This time they gave me a real nice nugget: Bornean Brown Barbets and a Red-naped Trogon at the far end of the Pitta Trail.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QqSgEZkmAnI/WKtFFoE8UtI/AAAAAAABcjA/lQEGdM22iPkMMSjIFO44_aN7bsb3Em_wgCLcB/s1600/Bornean%2BBrown%2BBarbet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="542" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QqSgEZkmAnI/WKtFFoE8UtI/AAAAAAABcjA/lQEGdM22iPkMMSjIFO44_aN7bsb3Em_wgCLcB/s640/Bornean%2BBrown%2BBarbet.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bornean Brown Barbet (endemic) excavating a nest cavity out of an active termite colony. His/her partner was sitting on a nearby branch. I watched them for 20 minutes take turns digging and getting covered in termites.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Natalia was free after lunch, so I brought her back to the spot where the barbets were still going hard at it. As she was taking photos I noticed an odd quiet call from nearby. Eventually I located a gorgeous male Red-naped Trogon.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o8-FCVXfFM4/WKtF593SAnI/AAAAAAABckU/dyRN9YYrj1kV2yLa7WkeZqA0wLhJJB9twCLcB/s1600/Red-naped%2BTrogon2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="542" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o8-FCVXfFM4/WKtF593SAnI/AAAAAAABckU/dyRN9YYrj1kV2yLa7WkeZqA0wLhJJB9twCLcB/s640/Red-naped%2BTrogon2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red-naped Trogon -- doesn't make up for missing Whitehead's Trogon at Mount Kinabalu, but a beautiful lifer</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cUVE52Sl4Tw/WKtF3wYXK5I/AAAAAAABckM/Pde088p6liYsv_iEUzfvy_ob48E5XbaVwCLcB/s1600/Red-naped%2BTrogon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="534" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cUVE52Sl4Tw/WKtF3wYXK5I/AAAAAAABckM/Pde088p6liYsv_iEUzfvy_ob48E5XbaVwCLcB/s640/Red-naped%2BTrogon.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red-naped Trogon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
We took our time enjoying and photographing the barbets and trogon and just around the time we might have begun to start thinking about moving on, Natalia caught a glimpse of a large black bird in the canopy as she swigged from her water bottle.</div>
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Oh my god it's the Bristlehead! The water bottle nearly crashed to the ground.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lfMANNJPJc8/WKtFAb0-zQI/AAAAAAABciw/YhTkJ6CdG3kFCgeAhrK1Rssg3STS9NpyACLcB/s1600/Bornean%2BBristlehead2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="502" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lfMANNJPJc8/WKtFAb0-zQI/AAAAAAABciw/YhTkJ6CdG3kFCgeAhrK1Rssg3STS9NpyACLcB/s640/Bornean%2BBristlehead2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bornean Bristlehead (immature), Sepilok</td></tr>
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!!!!!<br />
<br />
After all the advice about looking at the canopy tower in the very early morning, here were looking up at three feeding Bristleheads on one of the trails at 3 in the afternoon. So much for conventional wisdom.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KC3xh_DiiCQ/WKtE8Rx4nfI/AAAAAAABcis/r2BNaWw8hb0e_8maso5da30W0IFtu1i-wCLcB/s1600/Bornean%2BBristlehead1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="388" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KC3xh_DiiCQ/WKtE8Rx4nfI/AAAAAAABcis/r2BNaWw8hb0e_8maso5da30W0IFtu1i-wCLcB/s640/Bornean%2BBristlehead1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bornean Bristlehead (adult), Sepilok</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
It was yet another amazing spot by Natalia. She had one final one left in the bag. <br />
<br />
That night we met the students at the canopy walkway to watch the giant flying squirrels emerge (an awesome sight; we did this three nights in a row). As we walked our way out to the parking lot to hop a taxi back to the resort, Natalia noticed what she first thought was a tarsier in her flashlight beam.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CyVNmNXj-rw/WKtFTpE7TdI/AAAAAAABcjU/xKR0f1PkTGoRchSC7Vnys5Ii0jH47VYPgCLcB/s1600/Eastern%2BBay%2BOwl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="582" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CyVNmNXj-rw/WKtFTpE7TdI/AAAAAAABcjU/xKR0f1PkTGoRchSC7Vnys5Ii0jH47VYPgCLcB/s640/Eastern%2BBay%2BOwl.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The tarsier turned its head and revealed itself to be this Oriental Bay Owl, a tough bird to find!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
With the course wrapped up, we were free to move on to the Kinabatangan River. The landscape here has been severely fragmented by oil palm development over the past four decades which makes it an important area to visit for Natalia's research on birds in oil palm landscapes. The remnant forested riparian corridors, made ever more important for wildlife hemmed in by the oil palm deserts, have, somewhat paradoxically, become famous for ecotourism. Fancy lodges have sprung up along the putrid and often smelly Kinabantangan's banks drawing a steady stream of tourists hoping to glimpse or photograph a Proboscis Monkey or a Bornean Elephant.<br />
<br />
Conveniently for us the Kinabatangan is also excellent for birding and we signed up for a birding package with the resident bird guru Robert Chong. His lodge and fees aren't cheap by Malaysia standards, but as he offers the best chance in the world to see the endemic Bornean Ground-Cuckoo and a handful of difficult pittas, going with him is well worth the cost.<br />
<br />
When the Kinabatangan Jungle Camp bus showed up to pick us up from Sepilok, who should be inside but the same pair of birders we had met on the trails of Mount Kinabalu and Sepilok over the previous week.<br />
<br />
Turns out we had been birding a parallel itinerary with a pair of Belgian kings of the world of birding. The guy with the parabolic mike and the prosthetic leg turned out to be <a href="http://www.hbw.com/person/peter-boesman">Peter Boesman</a>, the most prolific bird sound recordist in the world. Seriously, nobody else has contributed so many vocalizations (circa 26,000) to xeno-canto.org. Peter has double-legendary status for also losing his leg to a bushmaster bite in the Peruvian Amazon some 20 years ago. His Swarovski-scope-wielding accomplice turned out to be Mark Van Beirs, a 30-year veteran bird guide for tour company Bird Quest and the #7 world life lister (he ticked #9000 on this trip to Borneo) according to the <a href="http://www.surfbirds.com/cgi-bin/surfbirds/display.cgi?list=list1&lowVal=0&highVal=49">scoreboards over at Surfsbirds.com</a> (you hear that, <a href="http://seagullsteve.blogspot.ch/p/the-life-and-times-of-seagull-and.html">Seagull Steve</a>? The actual world #7 in the flesh!).<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SoK6hPLyEyw/WK2V-FdZYRI/AAAAAAABd_8/5FOA2Q6dIGUPSY7UMsWWHKlBv8mixNDIgCLcB/s1600/Peter%2BBoesman%2Band%2BMark%2BVan%2BBeirs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="252" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SoK6hPLyEyw/WK2V-FdZYRI/AAAAAAABd_8/5FOA2Q6dIGUPSY7UMsWWHKlBv8mixNDIgCLcB/s320/Peter%2BBoesman%2Band%2BMark%2BVan%2BBeirs.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We found ourselves birding with Belgian birding celebrities (if such a thing exists) Peter Boesman and Mark Van Beirs (insert culturally insensitive joke about waffles and/or chocolate here). If you notice a down-tick in Peter Boesman's xeno-canto.org sound uploads, it's probably because I talked over most of his recordings. Countless potential new splits eluded adequate vocal documentation thanks to me.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The Belgians proved themselves worthy of their lofty reputations immediately by spotting roosting Brown Wood-Owls just behind our cabin.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3oXTF6UIvBg/WKtFLRGj-BI/AAAAAAABcjM/GpoeLKx08CkDiiQWPCFeXfdKm2Ip4HM-QCLcB/s1600/Brown%2BWood%2BOwl%2Bjuvenile.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3oXTF6UIvBg/WKtFLRGj-BI/AAAAAAABcjM/GpoeLKx08CkDiiQWPCFeXfdKm2Ip4HM-QCLcB/s640/Brown%2BWood%2BOwl%2Bjuvenile.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brown Wood-Owl juvenile, Kinabatangan Jungle Camp</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8_32E4KletQ/WKtFTkZtQ_I/AAAAAAABcjY/YY-_onT9MP0Hak7WDbMc4OhF4xeOuIbrACLcB/s1600/Brown%2BWood%2BOwl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="526" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8_32E4KletQ/WKtFTkZtQ_I/AAAAAAABcjY/YY-_onT9MP0Hak7WDbMc4OhF4xeOuIbrACLcB/s640/Brown%2BWood%2BOwl.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brown Wood-Owl adult, Kinabatangan Jungle Camp</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Otherwise the birding in this area is nearly 100% done by boat, which is great for photography. A few of the more common specimens:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vzZV6k-j0Dc/WKtFcJ_-lSI/AAAAAAABcjg/B3tLAkGTMe0BwWV9krtTMJ6rnKnogxg3wCLcB/s1600/Gray-headed%2BFish%2BEagle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="454" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vzZV6k-j0Dc/WKtFcJ_-lSI/AAAAAAABcjg/B3tLAkGTMe0BwWV9krtTMJ6rnKnogxg3wCLcB/s640/Gray-headed%2BFish%2BEagle.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gray-headed Fish-Eagle, not to be confused with the similar Lesser Fish-Eagle</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MMIk7YKJbTs/WKtFuXu7LxI/AAAAAAABckA/wm0TetDQSD4XpcgBJl0wb51QEp2WbFY2wCLcB/s1600/Oriental%2BDarter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MMIk7YKJbTs/WKtFuXu7LxI/AAAAAAABckA/wm0TetDQSD4XpcgBJl0wb51QEp2WbFY2wCLcB/s640/Oriental%2BDarter.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oriental Darter, the Southeast Asian cousin of North America's Anhinga</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5fYg8Xy2sZc/WKtE05MY8xI/AAAAAAABcic/zHYN9DNLk7swzjmknN4hbGDZK-myu79jQCLcB/s1600/Blue-eared%2BKingfisher.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="414" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5fYg8Xy2sZc/WKtE05MY8xI/AAAAAAABcic/zHYN9DNLk7swzjmknN4hbGDZK-myu79jQCLcB/s640/Blue-eared%2BKingfisher.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Blue-eared Kingfisher, with the possible exception of Stork-billed, the most common kingfisher here</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DJaGpCgNlT0/WKtGCdumAEI/AAAAAAABckk/0v4E1RcbqKALqLq3oq9j1ebUODNRYMYMACLcB/s1600/Stork-billed%2BKingfisher.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="476" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DJaGpCgNlT0/WKtGCdumAEI/AAAAAAABckk/0v4E1RcbqKALqLq3oq9j1ebUODNRYMYMACLcB/s640/Stork-billed%2BKingfisher.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stork-billed Kingfisher, the other most common Kingfisher.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lo5Tw-g9onc/WKtEoa0uFxI/AAAAAAABciI/7UI9jood3kkv1dgfXHCXQRhsEfpQnx3UQCLcB/s1600/Black-and-red%2BBroadbill.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lo5Tw-g9onc/WKtEoa0uFxI/AAAAAAABciI/7UI9jood3kkv1dgfXHCXQRhsEfpQnx3UQCLcB/s640/Black-and-red%2BBroadbill.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black-and-red Broadbill, affectionately referred to by local guides as 'Angry Bird.' These things were building nests all along the river banks.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MeR3n7BbR_o/WKtGSoJPvBI/AAAAAAABclA/PbQINc4CUcYA8GAGasknIm6YZdBVCwYgwCLcB/s1600/Wrinkled%2BHornbill.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="388" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MeR3n7BbR_o/WKtGSoJPvBI/AAAAAAABclA/PbQINc4CUcYA8GAGasknIm6YZdBVCwYgwCLcB/s640/Wrinkled%2BHornbill.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wrinkled Hornbill (male), yes these are quite common on the Kinabatangan.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kI_STzDHS-s/WKtFkr2p-OI/AAAAAAABcjo/Rka1YOFm12scBZoi6n_1kVppzOgwpMnVgCLcB/s1600/Great%2BEgret.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="450" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kI_STzDHS-s/WKtFkr2p-OI/AAAAAAABcjo/Rka1YOFm12scBZoi6n_1kVppzOgwpMnVgCLcB/s640/Great%2BEgret.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What the hell is this thing? Apparently in Southeast Asia in breeding condition Great Egrets have dark bills with blue facial skin and pinkish thighs. Peter Boesman and I nearly came to blows over this ID. He insisted that these birds were too small to be Great Egrets and I was ready to concede that the Phillipps' Guide illustrations might be totally worthless. Later side-by-side views of the egret trio (Great, Intermediate, Little) confirmed and vindicated the Phillipps' rendering</td></tr>
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Sadly we ended up dipping on the Ground-Cuckoo, only hearing a few distant calls, and had no luck with any of the elusive pittas. Otherwise the birding was excellent (as was the birding company), so we weren't as bothered as we probably should have been.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-C8MoKNoYTSY/WKtFrrjviwI/AAAAAAABcj8/kFIDhssdz1EFee1o5FFFumJA6Jun7SMEgCLcB/s1600/Lesser%2BAdjutant.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="412" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-C8MoKNoYTSY/WKtFrrjviwI/AAAAAAABcj8/kFIDhssdz1EFee1o5FFFumJA6Jun7SMEgCLcB/s640/Lesser%2BAdjutant.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We got great looks at this ugly Lesser Adjutant, one of the two threatened stork targets here</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n9Cmg1892GQ/WKtGHmQbc5I/AAAAAAABcko/KiWPZloHp_UcfttEiqaexKrlnry7AnVAgCLcB/s1600/Storm%2527s%2BStork.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="450" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n9Cmg1892GQ/WKtGHmQbc5I/AAAAAAABcko/KiWPZloHp_UcfttEiqaexKrlnry7AnVAgCLcB/s640/Storm%2527s%2BStork.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Storm's Stork, the second threatened stork target, also put in a good showing</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-J-7To9GKaa8/WKtF-tyeloI/AAAAAAABckc/J0M_Ql9GRFgZ4ZVKexBF8lSf_YcV2dw0wCLcB/s1600/Ruddy%2BKingfisher.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="377" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-J-7To9GKaa8/WKtF-tyeloI/AAAAAAABckc/J0M_Ql9GRFgZ4ZVKexBF8lSf_YcV2dw0wCLcB/s400/Ruddy%2BKingfisher.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Natalia's favorite bird of the Kinabatangan was this Ruddy Kingfisher (poorly named, this bird is a gorgeous deep purple)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4KVYkPB3fS8/WKtGKn4CJVI/AAAAAAABcks/5blfrUaCygMoe8RuohTXWFCMQ7BWObrfwCLcB/s1600/White-crowned%2BHornbill.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="384" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4KVYkPB3fS8/WKtGKn4CJVI/AAAAAAABcks/5blfrUaCygMoe8RuohTXWFCMQ7BWObrfwCLcB/s640/White-crowned%2BHornbill.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White-crowned Hornbill. One of three lifers Mark Van Beirs ticked on his first day out with us on the Kinabatangan. The other two were Large Frogmouth and Chestnut-winged Cuckoo</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HTNVwkAsEY0/WKtGV_Q43FI/AAAAAAABclI/tYOyi0oaHbEwlvTdBsJFsWOwepd8eeTewCLcB/s1600/Yellow%2BBittern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="460" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HTNVwkAsEY0/WKtGV_Q43FI/AAAAAAABclI/tYOyi0oaHbEwlvTdBsJFsWOwepd8eeTewCLcB/s640/Yellow%2BBittern.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I finally got my second Ixobrychus species in a cooperative Yellow Bittern that clumsily clamored in the emergent vegetation </td></tr>
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We left the Kinabatangan at the last possible minute, heading straight to the Sandakan airport to catch successive flights to Kota Kinabalu and on to Kuala Lumpur for a brief stopover in Peninsular Malaysia before the jaunt back to Switzerland.<br />
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It seems incredible that after spending 4 weeks in Kalimantan we could return to Borneo and tick 111 new species with relative ease. Comparing lists and effort from these two adjacent states speaks to the huge difference in birding opportunities. Kalimantan -- 177 species in 4 weeks; Sabah -- 200 species in 10 days.<br />
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Conclusion? Go birding in Sabah. There are a lot of interesting endemics to search for, the ecotourism infrastructure is world class and costs are relatively low. When you go, be sure to run into Peter Boesman and Mark Van Biers for a guaranteed fun time.<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09036340024818230677noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2751020401972674507.post-12861452817083689322017-01-22T11:19:00.002-05:002017-02-20T14:22:59.497-05:00Birding Asuncion, Paraguay<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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After escaping Bolivia, where we knew nobody and where friendly faces were few and far between, we were glad to be greeted at the airport in Asuncion by a high school friend of Natalia’s. Juanjo was not a birder, but with unbridled enthusiasm woke up pre-dawn to take us to some ecoturism spot outside of the city that sounded promising.<o:p></o:p></div>
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'Ecotourism,' turned out to mean 'zip lining,' and also 'by reservation only,' which of course we had not made. There were some trees around the entrance and the bleary-eyed on-site manager was nice enough to let us bird the vicinity until the paying guests began arriving. Since we were blind being led by the blinder we didn’t exactly rack up a huge species count. Nevertheless, crossing paths with a few flocks gave us our first taste of some of the Atlantic Forest Avifauna.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Kkhcd97a2Z4/WH_IyPFg1qI/AAAAAAABRLQ/V0pDVKcVgRA-giTG_MSmKMW2d7JrnK7AgCLcB/s1600/Blue-naped%2BChlorophonia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Kkhcd97a2Z4/WH_IyPFg1qI/AAAAAAABRLQ/V0pDVKcVgRA-giTG_MSmKMW2d7JrnK7AgCLcB/s640/Blue-naped%2BChlorophonia.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Blue-naped Chlorophonia</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Guira Cuckoo</td></tr>
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Paraguay sits at an odd ecological crossroads. It harbors vast areas of arid scrubby savanna known as Chaco, as well as wetter seasonally flooded cerrado-like savanna and then its forests represent the westernmost extent of the Atlantic Forest, famous for being all but destroyed in Brazil and hosting the highest density of endangered birds in the world. This confluence of ecosystems yields an astonishing diversity of bird life and Paraguay’s country list is impressive, given that it is small, nearly flat and much of its territory lies south of the Tropic of Capricorn.<o:p></o:p></div>
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We were eager to continue onward to northern Argentina to delve deeply into Atlantic Forest birds, so only budgeted ourselves a single guided day-trip in Paraguay. In retrospect this was probably a mistake. It would have been great to take a few days to go deep into the Chaco. Luckily it is possible to get a sampling of Chaco, wet savanna and Atlantic Forest all within an hour or so of Asuncion.<o:p></o:p></div>
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So we booked one long day with a local guide. Unfortunately, the ornithologist Alberto Esquivel, wasn’t available, so he set us up with an ‘apprentice guide’ who would take us up to the flooded savannas of Arroyos y Esteros and then down to 'Chaco I'.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The birding at Arroyos y Esteros was fantastic. The abundance and diversity was staggering for a landscape with almost zero vertical habitat complexity. So many flavors of flycatchers and icterids flitted among the shrubs and clung to reed stems and several Snail Kites were constantly in view in all directions.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-j7yU0PuRMYU/WITIoYz3s-I/AAAAAAABRN4/t0yK12PNb9YUlr37rCLXN55oD_0kFSoEQCLcB/s1600/Great%2Bpampa%2Bfinch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="472" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-j7yU0PuRMYU/WITIoYz3s-I/AAAAAAABRN4/t0yK12PNb9YUlr37rCLXN55oD_0kFSoEQCLcB/s640/Great%2Bpampa%2Bfinch.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Great Pampa Finch</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tlfoMexKIrA/WITGfAk1aQI/AAAAAAABRNU/ciDINNsF_1cSoXMMqM_uguLxdtzoCZjSgCLcB/s1600/fried%2Begg%2Btyrant.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tlfoMexKIrA/WITGfAk1aQI/AAAAAAABRNU/ciDINNsF_1cSoXMMqM_uguLxdtzoCZjSgCLcB/s640/fried%2Begg%2Btyrant.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Spectacled Tyrant. Eye like an egg yolk</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CaChYKC84h8/WITGXrbjpRI/AAAAAAABRNA/A5G0DQ6mffsqrVhNIjKbEcIP9kcvRb33ACLcB/s1600/Maguarie%2BStorks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="330" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CaChYKC84h8/WITGXrbjpRI/AAAAAAABRNA/A5G0DQ6mffsqrVhNIjKbEcIP9kcvRb33ACLcB/s640/Maguarie%2BStorks.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Maguari Storks being photo-bombed by a Chimango Caracara. I counted 104 storks in this flock, my previous high count for this species was 1.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qF8SlSzui4k/WITGYAMWLNI/AAAAAAABRNE/axowqapNtQsvIy_q-SzorxH_i3Xo1_4KgCLcB/s1600/Marshbirds.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="390" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qF8SlSzui4k/WITGYAMWLNI/AAAAAAABRNE/axowqapNtQsvIy_q-SzorxH_i3Xo1_4KgCLcB/s640/Marshbirds.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Yellow-rumped Marshbirds</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yfS_6DxXulY/WITGcpWGWnI/AAAAAAABRNM/2sYqKAQ8np4AEoXZSRM56VJEXcDJRB1VQCLcB/s1600/Unicolored%2BBLackbird2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="410" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yfS_6DxXulY/WITGcpWGWnI/AAAAAAABRNM/2sYqKAQ8np4AEoXZSRM56VJEXcDJRB1VQCLcB/s640/Unicolored%2BBLackbird2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Unicolored Blackbird. You can tell it's Unicolored and not another of the many superficially similar blackbirds in the region because it is so colorful.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GL_zSqgVyrk/WITGcNoSmyI/AAAAAAABRNI/3I9K70-nNmY6Ujo0sZuadz2a8ko9LoNcACLcB/s1600/Unicolored%2BBlackbird.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="430" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GL_zSqgVyrk/WITGcNoSmyI/AAAAAAABRNI/3I9K70-nNmY6Ujo0sZuadz2a8ko9LoNcACLcB/s640/Unicolored%2BBlackbird.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Seriously, look at all those colors. That's a lot of freaking color for a bird called 'unicolored.'</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Fkc8BTRpZsk/WITGd2P9rxI/AAAAAAABRNQ/df8XeIBZHY84LTRTQsDixI7XchTmUGVTgCLcB/s1600/White-winged%2BMockingbird.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="380" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Fkc8BTRpZsk/WITGd2P9rxI/AAAAAAABRNQ/df8XeIBZHY84LTRTQsDixI7XchTmUGVTgCLcB/s640/White-winged%2BMockingbird.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">White-banded Mockingbird</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bb8FN-zlT3c/WITGWtw208I/AAAAAAABRM8/pjsmsYAUeJUUj9AUAfIjmuE-Fl1V66tcwCLcB/s1600/Snail%2BKite.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="508" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bb8FN-zlT3c/WITGWtw208I/AAAAAAABRM8/pjsmsYAUeJUUj9AUAfIjmuE-Fl1V66tcwCLcB/s640/Snail%2BKite.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">And yes, Snail Kites were the trashiest of trash birds here. Look at this one slumming it on a swing set.</td></tr>
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Just as incredible as the bird life was the ineptitude of our guide, Jose. We had been warned that he was an ‘apprentice,’ but the frenquency and severity of his misidentifications was truly staggering. As somebody completely new to this avifauna, it took me some time to catch on to his blunders. Here I document no less than 4 brutal errors that are contradicted by photographs. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wKpsHI2BeOg/WITN0ivnHFI/AAAAAAABROM/Vv0VqauOKyAo0Co7YCj3v0xwmQEw-6cdwCLcB/s1600/Not%2Ba%2Bsouthern%2Bscreamer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="457" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wKpsHI2BeOg/WITN0ivnHFI/AAAAAAABROM/Vv0VqauOKyAo0Co7YCj3v0xwmQEw-6cdwCLcB/s640/Not%2Ba%2Bsouthern%2Bscreamer.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Jose called this bird a 'Southern Screamer.' It's clearly a young Great Black Hawk. If he had brought a scope there never would have been any doubt.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aQSeZyEkKT8/WITIocc8o5I/AAAAAAABRN0/gGWBvjgnwNQ0OP4y9L5SqZq6SNu20X1-gCLcB/s1600/Long-tailed%2BReed-Finch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="432" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aQSeZyEkKT8/WITIocc8o5I/AAAAAAABRN0/gGWBvjgnwNQ0OP4y9L5SqZq6SNu20X1-gCLcB/s640/Long-tailed%2BReed-Finch.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Jose called this bird a 'Bearded Tachuri,' a bird name I had not previously heard and so didn't recognize immediately how wrong it was. Tachuri refers to a genus of flycatcher; this Long-tailed Reed-Finch is in the tanager family! We saw half a dozen of these and they were all 'Bearded Tachuri.' At least he was consistent.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x_5YBuHzp5g/WITIiRNGQqI/AAAAAAABRNo/BPYoEF8HHwQZlDL4iZNMfs3dvTNXOF7EwCLcB/s1600/Bearded%2Btachuri2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="432" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x_5YBuHzp5g/WITIiRNGQqI/AAAAAAABRNo/BPYoEF8HHwQZlDL4iZNMfs3dvTNXOF7EwCLcB/s640/Bearded%2Btachuri2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">He was right to be calling a lot of Bearded Tachuri, because they were quite common. But with ample chances to recognize the real thing, he instead called this Bearded Tachuri a Euler's Flycatch.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aOQEZ9lV8v4/WITIihTOqKI/AAAAAAABRNw/-DUK6A3mjoQ3YyirIueyMzo585QR_vENgCLcB/s1600/Bearded%2BTachuri.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="438" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aOQEZ9lV8v4/WITIihTOqKI/AAAAAAABRNw/-DUK6A3mjoQ3YyirIueyMzo585QR_vENgCLcB/s640/Bearded%2BTachuri.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">At this point I knew Jose was screwing things up as there's no chance this colorful little flycatcher could be an Euler's Flycatcher, which is a forest species and wouldn't be at happily foraging in roadside scrub. So I made a special effort to get some decent photos... </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-meaEbBdd-5s/WITIiQAIHyI/AAAAAAABRNs/tVyvyWdrHCYKkOT0vIVND3-11SXukSkBgCLcB/s1600/Grassland%2BSparrow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="374" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-meaEbBdd-5s/WITIiQAIHyI/AAAAAAABRNs/tVyvyWdrHCYKkOT0vIVND3-11SXukSkBgCLcB/s640/Grassland%2BSparrow.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">And then finally, we saw this fledgling Grassland Sparrow get fed by a parent. Jose's call? 'My gosh it's a Bearded Tachuri with pigment abnormalities!' I shit you not. This is when it dawned on me that Jose was a crap guide and we were being scammed. Hang on... it will get worse.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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All of these mis-identifications Jose dutifully submitted to eBird and shared. After a lot of post-hoc editing I ended up with a much different list.<br />
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How many other mistakes did he make that will never be realized? How much bad data is he submitting to eBird? How many false lifers is he foisting upon visiting birders?<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zeTlpHNrHoI/WITIovnN0KI/AAAAAAABRN8/5UaiJQFG6gYnCf3MQw7X1OEOaGh_M61QgCLcB/s1600/Southern%2BScrub%2BFlycatcher.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zeTlpHNrHoI/WITIovnN0KI/AAAAAAABRN8/5UaiJQFG6gYnCf3MQw7X1OEOaGh_M61QgCLcB/s640/Southern%2BScrub%2BFlycatcher.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Jose might have correctly identified this Southern Scrub Flycatcher; he did call one out at some point. But after all the struggle with Tachuris, it seems just as likely that he was looking at a Small-billed Elaenia or a White-crested Tyrannulet when he made the call.</td></tr>
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In Chaco-I, the birds were no less abundant and interesting. At some unassuming overgrown intersection behind a gas station we came across an active mixed flock of a few dozen species (including a nemesis of mine: Red-billed Scythebill) during what is typically the midi-afternoon doldrums.<o:p></o:p><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b5X2XgG0xpM/WITVM1VGahI/AAAAAAABROY/9cvwx3fUYxAsXzwKjZ0ghyoAYPJ2DaxzACLcB/s1600/Rusty-collared%2BSeedeater.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="402" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b5X2XgG0xpM/WITVM1VGahI/AAAAAAABROY/9cvwx3fUYxAsXzwKjZ0ghyoAYPJ2DaxzACLcB/s640/Rusty-collared%2BSeedeater.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Rusty-collared Seedeater</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IzFvxXhjya0/WITIUKQcPzI/AAAAAAABRNk/vsocP9r2qu4lJNqZn2lKD3aennpbQsOkQCLcB/s1600/Black-crowned%2BParakeet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="508" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IzFvxXhjya0/WITIUKQcPzI/AAAAAAABRNk/vsocP9r2qu4lJNqZn2lKD3aennpbQsOkQCLcB/s640/Black-crowned%2BParakeet.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Nanday Parakeet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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By this point I think Jose began to realize that it was better to be inconclusive with birds rather than make blatant mis-identifications...possibly because I was taking photos. He puzzled a good while over a bird that Natalia and I later realized was a Firewood Gatherer.<br />
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And Jose took incompetence to a new level struggled as he drove us into a cow pasture mud pit where we would burn the prime late-afternoon hours unsuccessfully trying to dig his car out.</div>
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<o:p></o:p><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OWd9zC7Q4cw/WITXJlhO94I/AAAAAAABROk/SqIRtvPGkb08ojpj5lKnMxYG7c_N75qKwCLcB/s1600/Stuck%2Bcar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="416" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OWd9zC7Q4cw/WITXJlhO94I/AAAAAAABROk/SqIRtvPGkb08ojpj5lKnMxYG7c_N75qKwCLcB/s640/Stuck%2Bcar.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jose's talents weren't limited to bird misidentification</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Eventually he called his father who came with an SUV and a rope to pull us out. By this point it was long-dark and we were hungry. Jose got lost on the way back to Juanjo's place and our dinner plans had to be cancelled. So it goes.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Don’t get me wrong, Jose was a really nice guy, but for $200, one expects a few basic features in a bird guide, all of which Jose lacked:<o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="text-indent: -18pt;">
1- <span style="font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span>A spotting scope for appropriate open habitats<o:p></o:p></div>
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2- A good sense of time-management and logistics<o:p></o:p></div>
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3- Familiarity with the regularly occurring bird species!<o:p></o:p></div>
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It was like hiring a taxi driver who happened to own pair of binoculars, except that a taxi driver would have the resourcefulness to get his own car out of the mud. <o:p></o:p></div>
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To his credit, Jose did help us see one of our main targets, the Strange-tailed Tyrant. We saw one distant female that we almost certainly would have missed if he hadn’t known where to stop and look.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Because we had never birded South America’s mesopotamia, we racked up loads of lifers (I got 42), but most of these birds are relatively easy to find in appropriate habitat in parts of Brazil and Argentina. Other than the paucity of decent guides, the other drawback to birding Paraguay is that it almost entirely lacks specialties. There is one endemic tinamou that brings in a few world listers, but its taxonomic validity is in dispute. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The lack of important targets and dearth of good flight routes to North America and Europe leave Paraguay as a forgotten corner of the world’s bird continent. This partly explains the trouble with guides…with such little demand, one gets few chances to practice.<o:p></o:p></div>
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It’s a shame that more birders don’t visit Paraguay, both because the birding is excellent and easy and also because the Chaco is rapidly being converted into mono-culture soy plantations, which is a conservation concern.<o:p></o:p></div>
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For better or for worse, Juanjo dropped us at the bus station the next morning for our ride to Ciudad del Este and a trip across the world’s most heavily traveled frontier, the “friendship bridge” to Brazil, which altogether lacks formal regulation. After a long wait in the traffic jam we passed over into Foz de Iguazu and then across the second part of the triple frontier into Puerto Iguazu, Argentina.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09036340024818230677noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2751020401972674507.post-14661891567472029152017-01-12T15:26:00.002-05:002017-02-20T14:23:14.806-05:00Happy New Year backyard birding in Colombia<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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With 2016 in the bag, early January is typically for birders (when they're not out racking up first-of-year finds) a time to reflect on the passed year's birding achievements. Incredibly, <a href="https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/animalia/wp/2017/01/10/americas-toughest-record-in-competitive-birdwatching-was-shattered-last-year/?utm_term=.9135c093f394">four people individually smashed the ABA area big year record </a>and <a href="http://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=317348">this Dutch guy</a> broke the world big year record that was just set in 2015.</div>
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I didn't set out to break any records in 2016, but incidental to all the international travel, I managed to log more than 1500 birds for the year. This was by far my personal biggest year and enough to make the top 20 on eBird. It's been such a whirlwind that I'm still working on writing up all the adventures and have photos of few birds I still don't know how to ID. </div>
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Rather than try to pull out an arbitrary top 10 sightings as I have done in the past, instead I want to share the joy (or brag?) about where I've been spending my new years lately. One of the perks of having a Colombian <i>novia </i>is an
obligatory annual trip to the world’s birdiest country. Trips to see in-law
relatives stereo-typically involve some measure of dread, but not for me. Natalia’s aunts, uncles, cousins and parents
are all wonderful people and as a bonus I have had the chance to mark the end
and beginning of the past three years spotting beautiful tropical birds.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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“Barlovento,” Natalia’s uncles’ farm north of Cali,
shouldn’t really offer much in the way of birds, given that it sits within a
landscape dominated by sugar cane monoculture. Yet, after 12 years of planted
tree growth, the parcel attracts a decent diversity of avifauna. In the handful
of days I have stayed there, I have observed nearly 70 species, including some
real lookers.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--7r8KMTvLHw/WHZkUdj5PHI/AAAAAAABQuM/xaNxVx6pF4EfPA-EKjw8tjBYhbbloVJEQCLcB/s1600/Yellow%2BOriole.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--7r8KMTvLHw/WHZkUdj5PHI/AAAAAAABQuM/xaNxVx6pF4EfPA-EKjw8tjBYhbbloVJEQCLcB/s640/Yellow%2BOriole.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yellow Oriole</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ql8YTF7kjjU/WHZj6bWpHCI/AAAAAAABQtk/BfYnpMHCwboI9_IazIi7Hi25bgCbCGRzwCLcB/s1600/Fork-tailed%2BFlycatcher.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="324" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ql8YTF7kjjU/WHZj6bWpHCI/AAAAAAABQtk/BfYnpMHCwboI9_IazIi7Hi25bgCbCGRzwCLcB/s640/Fork-tailed%2BFlycatcher.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fork-tailed Flycatcher, a bird I've yet to see in the US</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UL5XpyeX2wo/WHZkK36p2BI/AAAAAAABQt0/MVhiA_SIVGIa8ISaGTrbwnm4HKX5yJ97ACLcB/s1600/Spot-breasted%2BWoodpecker.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UL5XpyeX2wo/WHZkK36p2BI/AAAAAAABQt0/MVhiA_SIVGIa8ISaGTrbwnm4HKX5yJ97ACLcB/s640/Spot-breasted%2BWoodpecker.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spot-breasted Woodpecker</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BJFdqu-5tdA/WHZkBupp4SI/AAAAAAABQto/ttKxbKkS3JQdQkk-niP3PrPoKlVERO1BACLcB/s1600/Cattle%2BTyrant.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BJFdqu-5tdA/WHZkBupp4SI/AAAAAAABQto/ttKxbKkS3JQdQkk-niP3PrPoKlVERO1BACLcB/s640/Cattle%2BTyrant.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Cattle Tyrant</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
After Natalia's uncle started showing interest in printing some of the images he was seeing on the back of my camera, I started trying a bit harder to get some print-worthy crushes of some of the really common trashy stuff.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-krFLKxwkFEU/WHZkCPr32MI/AAAAAAABQts/EDCf4x9ZZxIvH3bGVMzddiYnmrmiZkuCgCLcB/s640/Bare-faced%2BIbis.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bare-faced Ibis or 'Coquito' - you know it's a trash bird if has a common Spanish name</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-krFLKxwkFEU/WHZkCPr32MI/AAAAAAABQts/EDCf4x9ZZxIvH3bGVMzddiYnmrmiZkuCgCLcB/s1600/Bare-faced%2BIbis.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br /></div>
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-krFLKxwkFEU/WHZkCPr32MI/AAAAAAABQts/EDCf4x9ZZxIvH3bGVMzddiYnmrmiZkuCgCLcB/s1600/Bare-faced%2BIbis.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ETWX-hbR7RU/WHZkLb8cUjI/AAAAAAABQt4/bDCaswcRRAE1CMT76lQkWWqJR4R-AvV0gCLcB/s1600/Saffron%2BFinch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ETWX-hbR7RU/WHZkLb8cUjI/AAAAAAABQt4/bDCaswcRRAE1CMT76lQkWWqJR4R-AvV0gCLcB/s640/Saffron%2BFinch.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">especially if the common name is taxonomically stupid as in this 'canario' or Saffron Finch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OoDUfgHwpe8/WHZkQ8o_b6I/AAAAAAABQuA/m3eI2rVTOaUEAaO4XE5bUnYD-2o3wrvkwCLcB/s1600/Tropical%2BKingbird.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OoDUfgHwpe8/WHZkQ8o_b6I/AAAAAAABQuA/m3eI2rVTOaUEAaO4XE5bUnYD-2o3wrvkwCLcB/s640/Tropical%2BKingbird.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'Siriri' or Tropical Kingbird, the king of tropical trash birds </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9m861gwxbzs/WHZkTjfnusI/AAAAAAABQuI/Mtub1AYzqLMO8IcDlP5CI0aioQRiuTO7ACLcB/s1600/Vermillion%2BFlycatcher.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9m861gwxbzs/WHZkTjfnusI/AAAAAAABQuI/Mtub1AYzqLMO8IcDlP5CI0aioQRiuTO7ACLcB/s640/Vermillion%2BFlycatcher.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vermillion Flycatcher - prettiest trash bird?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wsPN7jCZFWc/WHZkMn_FSdI/AAAAAAABQt8/RiWRLJ2aJac8VKdd52BFxfMEwixcrVjgwCLcB/s1600/Scrub%2BTanager.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wsPN7jCZFWc/WHZkMn_FSdI/AAAAAAABQt8/RiWRLJ2aJac8VKdd52BFxfMEwixcrVjgwCLcB/s640/Scrub%2BTanager.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">dang this Scrub Tanager is arguably even better-looking</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JSu6LznRjn8/WHZkC7aGFXI/AAAAAAABQtw/pNvX3hakxYUE4SYvPgracPzOkNMOLymGACLcB/s1600/Buff-necked%2BIbis.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JSu6LznRjn8/WHZkC7aGFXI/AAAAAAABQtw/pNvX3hakxYUE4SYvPgracPzOkNMOLymGACLcB/s640/Buff-necked%2BIbis.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This 'Cocli' is definitely not trash. Buff necked Ibis used to be a common fixture in the Cauca Valley until they were hunted to brink of extirpation to be used in <i>Sancocho </i>(a soup). They are starting to make a comeback and the family of four that roosts in this palm at Barlo Vento is a huge source of pride.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Natalia’s parents' farm, "Kaliawirinae," suffers from a similar
landscape challenge, with the surrounding areas dominated by cattle pasture.
Forest fragments are general small and not-well connected. But this makes
Kaliawirinae’s patch of forest an attractive oasis for birds. Natalia and
others had documented nearly 150 species on site. I’m proud to have been able to contribute
several new observations to the reserve’s list over the past few years and the list now sits at 169! Quite the yard list.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FfXgzfqwgvc/WHZkhYEbmiI/AAAAAAABQu0/0HvEUGyyoTIn-p0ZseBT3M-kSU2qMm7ZACLcB/s1600/Straight-billed%2BWoodcreeper.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FfXgzfqwgvc/WHZkhYEbmiI/AAAAAAABQu0/0HvEUGyyoTIn-p0ZseBT3M-kSU2qMm7ZACLcB/s400/Straight-billed%2BWoodcreeper.jpg" width="248" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Straight-billed Woodcreeper</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rO1v365Dq_k/WHZkW48nYwI/AAAAAAABQuQ/Wrtef4LKTXskLBPeDc-FuTrbpDw2aKKEwCLcB/s1600/Chestnut-Collared%2BAracari.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="448" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rO1v365Dq_k/WHZkW48nYwI/AAAAAAABQuQ/Wrtef4LKTXskLBPeDc-FuTrbpDw2aKKEwCLcB/s640/Chestnut-Collared%2BAracari.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chestnut-eared Aracari</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<o:p> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9ki0cGo32ok/WHZkZ1wzYgI/AAAAAAABQvA/QoBClvbH-jwnK1gCXmXGfC1OD0KiOf5uACEw/s1600/Golden-bellied%2BEuphonia%2Bpair.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9ki0cGo32ok/WHZkZ1wzYgI/AAAAAAABQvA/QoBClvbH-jwnK1gCXmXGfC1OD0KiOf5uACEw/s640/Golden-bellied%2BEuphonia%2Bpair.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nesting Golden-bellied Euphonia pair</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v5gES_B7fOk/WHZkaF3fW_I/AAAAAAABQvA/UPnl_1L6jfUJT_8SFQVFF1ALlK8y-NWXwCEw/s1600/Great%2BPotoo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v5gES_B7fOk/WHZkaF3fW_I/AAAAAAABQvA/UPnl_1L6jfUJT_8SFQVFF1ALlK8y-NWXwCEw/s640/Great%2BPotoo.jpg" width="412" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Great Potoo, my first ever potoo sighting back in 2013</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N-XSp1Xv1NU/WHZka-e1CfI/AAAAAAABQvA/0hCJbtFa-k4CAmNdg1Y2eGTCnXT_gUMLACEw/s1600/Lettered%2BAracari.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N-XSp1Xv1NU/WHZka-e1CfI/AAAAAAABQvA/0hCJbtFa-k4CAmNdg1Y2eGTCnXT_gUMLACEw/s640/Lettered%2BAracari.jpg" width="538" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lettered Aracari</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CRGiaJxTAM8/WHZkfLX0tvI/AAAAAAABQvA/45N1iJ-aNYwRynKOxxd9pIkORLR0ieZ5wCEw/s1600/Oriole%2BBlackbird2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CRGiaJxTAM8/WHZkfLX0tvI/AAAAAAABQvA/45N1iJ-aNYwRynKOxxd9pIkORLR0ieZ5wCEw/s640/Oriole%2BBlackbird2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oriole Blackbird or <i>Gonzalito</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DvJfGhKhfFk/WHZkdFmxkCI/AAAAAAABQvA/YkVt7TUX3vsgoCoCEbdGRFxwt5fZkjtXwCEw/s1600/Plumbeous%2BKite.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DvJfGhKhfFk/WHZkdFmxkCI/AAAAAAABQvA/YkVt7TUX3vsgoCoCEbdGRFxwt5fZkjtXwCEw/s640/Plumbeous%2BKite.jpg" width="492" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plumbeous Kite</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WsEyT1EBFD4/WHZkef8sSNI/AAAAAAABQvA/GQLV_18CAKINtDy-DhR2yLEPKURHidXdACEw/s1600/Speckled%2BChachalaca.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WsEyT1EBFD4/WHZkef8sSNI/AAAAAAABQvA/GQLV_18CAKINtDy-DhR2yLEPKURHidXdACEw/s640/Speckled%2BChachalaca.jpg" width="418" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Speckled Chachalaca or <i>Guacharaca, </i>the notoriously noisy bird that is hated for the cacophony it often makes at 4 am </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8ZhGX4Ge7Rg/WHZkhN8fbvI/AAAAAAABQvA/fMS_PEuNaI449GhX2apztjsfTi2nQnf7wCEw/s1600/Tropical%2BScreech-Owl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8ZhGX4Ge7Rg/WHZkhN8fbvI/AAAAAAABQvA/fMS_PEuNaI449GhX2apztjsfTi2nQnf7wCEw/s640/Tropical%2BScreech-Owl.jpg" width="498" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tropical Screech-Owl</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The newest addition to the Kaliawirinae list is Chestnut-vented Conebill, a bird
sufficiently rare in the area such that it has taken ornithologists decades to
get a handle on its distribution.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ySC9d7b50hg/WHdq3vA4gcI/AAAAAAABQ3c/EUWGs6LjTSoDqEMGwsaqkrfQBn0SsHgAACLcB/s1600/Hilty%2Bconirostrum%2Brange.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ySC9d7b50hg/WHdq3vA4gcI/AAAAAAABQ3c/EUWGs6LjTSoDqEMGwsaqkrfQBn0SsHgAACLcB/s400/Hilty%2Bconirostrum%2Brange.jpg" width="336" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First attempt, Hilty 1987 (red x marks Kaliawirinae)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V9t4SqaTAKA/WHdq4Tc63bI/AAAAAAABQ3g/UhV9qrQZ9zgAL7ESqadv8vmEL3VjCaK4QCLcB/s1600/restall%2Bconirostrum%2Brange.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="272" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V9t4SqaTAKA/WHdq4Tc63bI/AAAAAAABQ3g/UhV9qrQZ9zgAL7ESqadv8vmEL3VjCaK4QCLcB/s400/restall%2Bconirostrum%2Brange.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Take two: Restall 2006</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3TZxTfTMKFY/WHdq4Yf0oBI/AAAAAAABQ3k/v4C1jnU-B90Bfy-nwkPEOoLu8sdTTB0cACLcB/s1600/pro%2Baves%2Bconirostrum.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="384" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3TZxTfTMKFY/WHdq4Yf0oBI/AAAAAAABQ3k/v4C1jnU-B90Bfy-nwkPEOoLu8sdTTB0cACLcB/s640/pro%2Baves%2Bconirostrum.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This map seems pretty good. McMullen 2010 </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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If I were to bird Kaliawirinae every day, it might take 6 months, but I'd eventually get the list up to 200 I'm sure. It sits at an ecosystem crossroads connecting the llanos savanna, Andean foothills and Amazonia, such that the common resident birds are an odd mix of birds typical of these regions. That means that the list of wanderers that could pass through is several hundred species long. To give you an example, a Hoatzin, the awkward Amazonian stinky turkey that dwells on oxbow lakes and other backwaters, showed up at Kaliawirinae despite the lack of anything resembling appropriate habitat.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09036340024818230677noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2751020401972674507.post-44441365719454355572016-12-27T12:48:00.001-05:002016-12-27T17:48:52.432-05:00Birding Bolivia<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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“The going isn’t always easy” -The Lonely Planet Bolivia</div>
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Natalia and I left Peru naively expecting more of the same from Bolivia: great birds; great food; great people. The chaotic border crossing portended the many challenges that were to come. In fact, the pitfalls nearly outshone the bird life.</div>
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What? You came here for birds? We did too. See Bolivia seems great for birds on paper: 1400+ species and some 25 endemics, plus 18% of the country is protected areas such as national parks. But as is the case in many developing countries protected area borders exist only on maps and to Bolivians on the ground do not actually exist. And even the birdiest, most attractive parts of the country are completely lacking in conventional tourist infrastructure. </div>
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We entered Bolivia on the shores of Lake Titicaca at the
“picturesque” town of Copacabana (photo purposefully omitted; the town did not
inspire me to take out my camera). <o:p></o:p></div>
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It’s telling that Lake Titicaca, a geographic feature
two-thirds of which lies within Peruvian borders, is nevertheless featured on
the cover of the Lonely Planet Bolivia. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Our first Bolivian adventure began before we even made it to
La Paz. We and our bus had to cross a section of the lake by ferry. We did not
imagine that passengers and bus would have to make the journey separately. But
in hindsight we were glad of this arrangements. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9_F63pPFqYM/WGFLvayKNdI/AAAAAAABQc4/1qthjnAALU0Y62JvZVOMP5sK-Ac8c-UowCLcB/s1600/Titicaca%2Bcrossing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9_F63pPFqYM/WGFLvayKNdI/AAAAAAABQc4/1qthjnAALU0Y62JvZVOMP5sK-Ac8c-UowCLcB/s640/Titicaca%2Bcrossing.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ferry crossing of Lake Titicaca. That's our bus with all our luggage being pushed over on a wooden barge by a guy with an outboard motor.</td></tr>
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Titicaca Grebes were thick in
this area of deeper water and Andean Gulls hovered over our heads looking for
handouts as we motored across in the chop.</div>
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Onward the landscape was dry and desolate. Bird life seemed to concentrate at the small
creeks and streams we passed over. We had a glimpse of some Andean Avocets in
one.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Having read about La Paz on the bus ride there, we managed
to convince ourselves that the best strategy for birding and enjoying La Paz would be to get the hell out as soon as possible. So we
arrived in the evening and were out again on a cheap flight the next morning to
Cochabamba.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Cochabamba is also high and dry, but at 3000 meters is
significantly lower than La Paz’s nose-bleed-inducing 3600. We set out
immediately to check out what birds were to be had at Laguna Alalay, a large lake in the middle of town. The lakeside was a desolate destruction zone. Clearly the government had cleared trash and
vegetation from the waterfront in some sort of effort to make it appealing for
visitors, but hadn’t yet gotten around to putting anything in its place. So the whole area had the feeling of a vacant
lot. <o:p></o:p></div>
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We came across a man defecating, who, bare-assed, was
summarily apprehended by two women on security patrol. As we gazed in the
opposite direction out at the lake to spot Andean Ruddy Ducks and White-tufted Grebes we were
surprised when the security approached us.
“Do you have permission?”<o:p></o:p></div>
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“Permission is needed to look at birds here?”<o:p></o:p></div>
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“Yes, everyone must obtain permission. Head to the security
station over there.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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Obligingly we walked along the dirt over toward a distant
building where requesting permission consisted of writing down our names and
passport numbers in a notebook. The security team offered to send an escort
with us on our hike. It did seen a bit
sketchy around the lake, and the hotel staff had warned us to be careful, but
Natalia explained how boring and slow birdwatching would be for our guard and
so we carried on alone.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Despite the rather unpromising context, there were birds
everywhere and most of them were new and unidentifiable to us, which was
exciting. Remember, Bolivia has no bird
book. We had our Peru and Argentina guides as well as a Southern South America
‘illustrated checklist,’ but Bolivia is such a mashup of ecosystems that it was difficult to figure out which book to refer to. Compounding matters is the fact that the illustrations in the Argentina
and Southern South America books are so atrocious as to be nearly unusable for identification. The Flycatcher sp. conundrum,
already fraught with a good guide, is next to impossible in Bolivia.<o:p></o:p></div>
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I resorted to a shoot-first and ask-ID-questions-later
birding strategy, relying heavily on the camera.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dh4J3-uO5v8/WGFNds2qNuI/AAAAAAABQdk/3fQhqDmcO4Ivo4mF-FmOZ8IxTNYzprZmgCLcB/s1600/Rufous%2BHornero.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="460" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dh4J3-uO5v8/WGFNds2qNuI/AAAAAAABQdk/3fQhqDmcO4Ivo4mF-FmOZ8IxTNYzprZmgCLcB/s640/Rufous%2BHornero.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rufous Hornero, Cochabamba</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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After reaching the end of a populated area along the lake shore, we decided to double-back rather than continue around a bend into a promising-looking more-vegetated area. There were
a lot of sketchy-looking teens roaming about giving our optics long looks.
Stolen binoculars in Bolivia would be catastrophic.</div>
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Back at the security kiosk, we ran into a scientist from the
Ministry of the Environment, who informed us that she was there to investigate
a recent massive bird die-off. The water was a putrid pea-soup
green and the lake shore was littered with garbage, plus we had already seen
how it functioned as a public toilet. The scientist's main challenge was that the trail was
cold. It had taken Bolivia’s corrupt
bureaucracy two months to approve her visit to Cochabamaba from La Paz. How was
she going to figure out the source of the problem so long after the fact? For a scientist investigating bird health, she didn’t seem to be much
interested in birds. I interrupted her once to point out a hawk flying
overhead. She gave it a half-glance before continuing her rant.</div>
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Here’s my photo:<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Auz8QKnD87w/WGFNDzmZtGI/AAAAAAABQdY/RIB6kh_EorsFNbQkLK_ArsRMe8tYOXwRQCLcB/s1600/Hawk%2Bsp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="456" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Auz8QKnD87w/WGFNDzmZtGI/AAAAAAABQdY/RIB6kh_EorsFNbQkLK_ArsRMe8tYOXwRQCLcB/s640/Hawk%2Bsp.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">unidentified hawk. Cochabamba</td></tr>
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I still can’t figure out what the heck it is!<o:p></o:p></div>
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This experience of finding Bolivians indiffent toward both
tourism and natural resources would become a recurring theme of our time in
country. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Later that afternoon we visited the local access to Tunari
National Park, a crescent that encircles the Cochabamba valley designed to protect
the population’s water supply. The taxi driver had no idea what the park was or
how to get there, so we guided him using the GPS on one of our phones.<o:p></o:p></div>
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When we arrived the entrance kiosk (to ask ‘permission’ as
were now trained to do), the woman explained to us that nobody can enter after
3 o’clock and seeing as it is now 3:02, we would not be allowed to proceed. We
managed to talk our way past this absurdity. Afterall we would not be very far
from the entrance anyway.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The landscape here was arid scrub and loaded with new and
interesting birds. We spent two hours at the end of one switchback in the road
overlooking a dry gully as hummingbirds, warbling-finches and other birds moved
up the mountain while the sun dropped.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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We managed to get out by closing time, as promised, and
caught a public <i>buseta</i> back into town for about 35 cents.<o:p></o:p></div>
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We had arranged with our taxi driver to pick us up the
following morning at 4 am to take us up to a higher access to the park. We made
it to the bridge spanning the river at 3600 meters just after dawn and
immediately found our main target in a Cochabamba Mountain-Finch, one of
Bolivia’s endemics. From here we birded our way back down the road to 3100
meters over the course of 5 hours. We saw some great birds.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sLEg46wWbeY/WGFNExM1SjI/AAAAAAABQdc/OqszhhbxZzYS1TBLAaLVr2idwhqR1MkcwCLcB/s1600/Andean%2BHillstar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="428" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sLEg46wWbeY/WGFNExM1SjI/AAAAAAABQdc/OqszhhbxZzYS1TBLAaLVr2idwhqR1MkcwCLcB/s640/Andean%2BHillstar.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andean Hillstar, Tunari National Park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x-ldC9O9TrM/WGFNgYVOF-I/AAAAAAABQdo/jR0MzLg2isA1ETQsq-OCgnNhKrESjlMJACLcB/s1600/Rufous-bellied%2BMountain-Tanager.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="440" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x-ldC9O9TrM/WGFNgYVOF-I/AAAAAAABQdo/jR0MzLg2isA1ETQsq-OCgnNhKrESjlMJACLcB/s640/Rufous-bellied%2BMountain-Tanager.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rufous-bellied Mountain-Tanager, Tunari National Park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AvAAL_cY-Hs/WGFNYe0E2MI/AAAAAAABQdg/WCM2KCclmNAhgdQ4EX7Aw68NWUuhf_3CwCLcB/s1600/Rufous-bellied%2BBush-tyrant.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="448" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AvAAL_cY-Hs/WGFNYe0E2MI/AAAAAAABQdg/WCM2KCclmNAhgdQ4EX7Aw68NWUuhf_3CwCLcB/s640/Rufous-bellied%2BBush-tyrant.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rufous-bellied Bush-Tyrant</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WuqK5sMSlDc/WGFM6rd7vAI/AAAAAAABQdM/_wICSpz1olYJjOI1Zv62ehAB19ZF-PjIACLcB/s1600/Golden-billed%2BSaltator.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="456" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WuqK5sMSlDc/WGFM6rd7vAI/AAAAAAABQdM/_wICSpz1olYJjOI1Zv62ehAB19ZF-PjIACLcB/s640/Golden-billed%2BSaltator.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Golden-billed Saltator</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-X_p8M8lOkZY/WGFNBcjrQPI/AAAAAAABQdU/YBLxqC3Z7qYsvBn0HOnH0XVTIkQ4ng3-ACLcB/s1600/Fulvous-headed%2BBrush-Finch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="388" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-X_p8M8lOkZY/WGFNBcjrQPI/AAAAAAABQdU/YBLxqC3Z7qYsvBn0HOnH0XVTIkQ4ng3-ACLcB/s640/Fulvous-headed%2BBrush-Finch.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fulvous-headed Brush-Finch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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But sadly Tunari, like many of its kind in the developing
world, is a National Park in name only. As we descended, the scale of the
degradation grew steadily more intense. All manner of rubbish began to pile up
along the sides of the road: tires; plastic bags; months supplies of used diapers. In the absence of public sanitation services
it seems that people have been using the park as a public dumping ground. Ironically, the motivation for this park was to protect the city’s watershed. Hillsides of endangered <i>polylepis </i>forest had been cleared to make way for
fields of potatoes and flowers. The silver lining is that the inaccessible
opposite side of the river appeared to still be pristine. </div>
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In retrospect, I’m curious as to what we would have found if
we had birded our way up slope instead of down. A lot of odd birds I’ve never
seen occur in these high Andean landscapes. Down was our only real choice
though, as a harsh wind gave us the shivers and we were way under-dressed for
the near-freezing temperatures. It’s
hard to get a good temperature forecast and the difference was far greater than
altitudinal lapse rates would have suggested.<o:p></o:p></div>
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We thanked and tipped our very friendly taxi driver, who had
charged us a cool ~$40 for his morning’s work (what a deal!).<o:p></o:p></div>
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No rest for the wicked… that afternoon we hopped a
<i>collectivo </i>that took us all the way from the high Andes down into the Amazonian
foothills in one hop.<o:p></o:p></div>
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It’s a bit frustrating because you know there could be
excellent birding all along this route spanning 2700 m in elevation, yet there
are neither roads, nor lodges, nor guides. The real missing raw ingredients in
Bolivia, however, are a culture that values nature and hospitality. Apart from
perhaps Haiti, Bolivia may be the New World country that is least prepared for a birder or ecotourist. Unlike Haiti, however, Bolivia has loads of intact
ecosystems, so there is hope for the future.
And I dare say there’s a huge opportunity here. Eventually, North
American birders will begin venturing to South America<i> en masse </i>as birding
rises in popularity and a new generation, more bilingual, less xenophobic, and
less-beholden to the ABA’s idiosyncratic borders emerges. After so many trips to
Colombia, Ecuador and Peru, Bolivia is the required destination if one hopes to
sample the complete buffet of birds that the tropical Andes has to offer.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Anyway, we arrived in Villa Tunari exhausted and agreed to
allow ourselves to sleep-in for a morning. We didn’t have any good birding
strategies lined up yet anyway.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--nH0KCFmXWE/WGFQASj3tFI/AAAAAAABQeE/PRswXq6h-aIrL5HQY1J3dakT0tlSzg7eQCLcB/s1600/Puffbird.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="470" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--nH0KCFmXWE/WGFQASj3tFI/AAAAAAABQeE/PRswXq6h-aIrL5HQY1J3dakT0tlSzg7eQCLcB/s640/Puffbird.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White-necked Puffbird, Villa Tunari</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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From the excellent online trip reports of birdsbolivia.com, we learned that the best birding near this 'touristic' town was a couple hours back up the road from which we had just come. On the highway that connects Cochabamba and Villa Tunari, a road follows a Chinese hydroelectric pipeline down a ridge starting at roughly 2000 m into what is supposedly some of the most-accessible mid-elevation Yungas habitat in all of Bolivia. The habitat is called ‘cloud forest’ by everybody in the world, except in Bolivia where it is called ‘Yungas.’ Actually, on this particular road, many people would call it ‘crap’ because it has been heavily degraded and cleared for cultivation.</div>
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Our driver arrived half an hour late, leaving us waiting in the dark at our hotel (gotta love that Bolivian service!), so we missed the best early dawn birding. Nevertheless, as soon as we found some decent forest along the road, there was a nice mixed-species flock with Saffron-crowned Tanagers, Montane Woodcreepers, Variable Antshrike and others. By the time we had birded our way through the flock and caught a glimpse of one of our main targets in a Yungas Manakin, it was 9 am and in the unusually bright day, the birds went dead. We kept at it for another hour and a half and caught up with a Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant, Slaty Elaenia and some Green-Cheeked Parakeets, but decided to head back down the mountain so we could grab lunch before our scheduled trip to an Oilbird cave. Not so fast.<o:p></o:p></div>
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As we came back out to the highway we found ourselves as front-row witnesses to a recently ignited ‘bloqueo’ protest, with burning tires and logs. We were told some of the locals were protesting a trout fair. Thus the highway connecting two of Bolivia’s largest cities was suddenly rendered useless. We waited a bit with our driver, but he advised us to descend on foot and catch a ride with somebody turning back from the blockade. As we passed by the crowds of angry truckers and onlookers, some whoops of excitement rang out it was announced that the blockade would be removed in ten minutes.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The two-lane Andean highway now had three lanes of traffic at loggerheads, and blockade or not, there would be no progressive movement anytime soon. So we continued walking downhill several kilometers spreading the news to anxious truckers and bus passengers. </div>
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Yes, there was a blockade. Yes they are clearing it. But no, you will not be going anywhere anytime soon because of overtaking cars clogging the highway. </div>
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‘Porque son desobedientes!’ one grumpy trucker exclaimed.<o:p></o:p></div>
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True, irresponsible aggressive passing makes a 1-hour blockage into a day-long ordeal, but it’s the trucks, which achieve a maximum speed of approximately 10 kilometers per hour on the steep grades and tight curves that make a suicidal driving strategy not insane, but rather a practicality.<o:p></o:p></div>
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After a few hours we eventually caught a ride in a backtracking minivan with seats available.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Inside it, of all people, was the craziest U.S. ex-pat I’ve come across in all my international travels. He was full of impossible juxtapositions. One minute giving prudent travel advice, the next extolling the virtues of drunk driving in Bolivia, because of the easily bribe-able police. Then he would be bemoaning his poor real estate investments via eBay and in the same breath extolling the upside of his pending Nevada marijuana farm. Before the mental red flags could reach full mast, he was already hawking the iPhone app he is ‘developing’ to block negative electronic frequencies that damage the brain. </div>
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<br />
He was travelling with his Bolvian wife and two infant children. After tenderly comforting his two-year-old son, ‘Ludwig Jr.,’ he would go on to recount his drunken fight with the intelligence police in La Paz and how his mother had to fly down from the U.S. to pay off the judge and bail him out of jail. Just when I was beginning to think he was one of those compulsive liars who can’t distinguish between true life experiences and fantasy, he got a call from a client. Turns out he was running some sort of paralegal advice service through his phone.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Anyway, we made it back to Villa Tunari in the mid-afternoon and gave a hasty farewell to Ludwig. The <i>bloqueo </i>had scuttled our plans to visit the nearby Oilbird cave, but at least we hadn’t tried to stick it out with our driver who didn’t make it down until after dark. We would read in the paper the following day that the military police had arrived to forcefully remove the blockade using tear gas, but this is blatant state propaganda. With the bloackade intact it would be impossible for any police trucks to arrive at the scene; and we saw the blockade being removed shortly after it had been put in place. What I can only assume really happened is that once traffic began moving, the police showed up to tear gas the local residents as punishment. The article ominously quoted a government official stating that rumors of gunfire used by police on unarmed civilians were untrue. Yep. That doesn’t sound the least bit concerning. Bolivia!</div>
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So we escaped the <i>bloqueo </i>and tear gas, but some Bolivian suffering would catch us as we attempted to leave town. </div>
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I present to you: the Bus Ride From Hell<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p>Our departure had been farcical with the transportation company somehow having sold far more tickets than there were seats on the bus. When we first departed Villa Tunari the aisle was nearly full of other passengers, including several children, sitting on plastic stools. In the first several towns we made stops, ostensibly to shift passengers over to other buses with space, but these mainly led to arguments and long delays with people angrily being herded off the bus, only to return several minutes later. The other buses were also overbooked. In the end there were still quite a few people in the aisle, including one guy right next to me.</o:p></div>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
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The guy in front of me had wrenched his seat so far back that his
head was in my lap. Bolivian buses,
being designed for a less-vertical demographic, leave little in the way of leg
room for somebody taller than six feet.
I had no choice but to twist sideways and sprawl my legs into the aisle.
Some time later, I awoke to a woman savagely pinching my legs. ‘mueve las piernas.’
All I could mutter in dazed half-sleep was ‘no puedo,’ which was nearly
accurate. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Nevertheless, the next words that came out of the woman’s
mouth, who was now vigorously shaking my inert shins, were a bit of a surprise:
‘Estan encima de la cabeza de mi nina!’ I pulled my feet back before I could
comprehend what had been said: they are on my daughter’s head.<o:p></o:p></div>
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In the dark jouncing of the bus these words, though a harsh
whisper, reverberated. My vision was
mostly obscured by a jacket wrapped around my head (an attempt to dull the
awful neck pain inflicted by a head rest that barely reached the bottoms of my ear lobes), but I
could sense the old crone in the opposite row concocting her worst of
curses and aiming it in my direction. It was the one she saves for the worst gringos. The kind who kick little girls in the head.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Sure enough within a couple hours, whether by karma or by
curse, I awoke again with the most excruciating intestinal pain.<o:p></o:p></div>
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By this point it seemed as though we must be nearing Santa
Cruz, judging by the density of lights and buildings outside. If I could just hang on, I might make it off
the bus without shitting my pants and really becoming the most popular
passenger on the bus ride from hell.<o:p></o:p></div>
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So this is the part of the bus ride that makes the least
sense: No, not the gross over-booking, not the children sleeping in aisles and
getting occasionally stepped on, but the unique departure time of 8 pm. This is the only time one can take the
7-hour bus trip from Villa Tunari to Santa Cruz. I repeat, buses leave at no
other time of day or night.<o:p></o:p></div>
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So here we were cruising into the Bolivia’s most populous
city at 2:45 am… miraculously an on-time arrival! Yet, instead of opening the doors
and letting everybody off at the station to blearily make their way home or
wherever, the bus pulled into a sketchy-looking alleyway and parked. Apparently the bus terminal doesn’t become
safe until 6 am, so we were given the choice to wait on the bus another three hours or
chance it in the risky alley and hope to find an honest taxi driver before
getting taken out by a mugger.<o:p></o:p></div>
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There are many nice Bolivians, who I’ve been lucky to meet while
travelling through this mess of a country, but our bus driver was not one of
them. Friendly, helpful Bolivians can be damn scarce country-wide, even in the
places where you would expect to find the cream of the crop, such as hotel
receptions or taxi stands in touristic places.
There just don’t seem to be very many people who work service jobs with
what one might consider to be a service mentality. The rub isn't that they have a bad attitude or
charge inflated prices to tourists. No, Bolivians just don’t seem to have any
interest in helping a tourist even when there is good money to be made.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Anyway, we found an honest taxi driver who was actually
rather good to us. No he didn’t know
where our hotel was, but didn’t complain while spending the better part of an
hour driving circles around neighborhoods looking. In Bolivia only major
arteries have street signs and taxi drivers don’t carry phones or any
navigational aids.<o:p></o:p></div>
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So we made it. At 3:30
am. I slept for the subsequent 27 hours.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
So that was the Bus Ride From Hell. You came here for birds (we did too), but as the Lonely
Planet puts it. “Bolivia will test your patience and stamina.” So if you made
it this far, congratulations! Maybe you
too have the endurance to bird Bolivia. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The Santa Cruz Botanical Garden offers a promising
remnant of dry forest, but the 20 to 30 mph winds made the birding tricky. We
got Ocellated Piculet and watched some Least Grebe chicks get devoured by a
caiman. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_6aF7hY-AZQ/WGFTMpwVQuI/AAAAAAABQek/T6B9sXvbrPIwZ1cQ566mdr4lXb0ALmLbACLcB/s1600/Three-toed%2BSloth.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="466" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_6aF7hY-AZQ/WGFTMpwVQuI/AAAAAAABQek/T6B9sXvbrPIwZ1cQ566mdr4lXb0ALmLbACLcB/s640/Three-toed%2BSloth.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prolific sloth-watching is there to be had at the Santa Cruz Botanical Gardens. We saw three.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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We were determined to find a pleasant birding experience somewhere in Bolivia and Los Volcanes proved to be the ticket. Just a few hours drive from Santa Cruz, it isn't terribly difficult to access and the setting is gorgeous.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qLG5RkHy7LU/WGGGbnXkRtI/AAAAAAABQfc/wK65ZB5qCVMVEW-7GhR0SdoUEIszuslTwCLcB/s1600/volcanes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qLG5RkHy7LU/WGGGbnXkRtI/AAAAAAABQfc/wK65ZB5qCVMVEW-7GhR0SdoUEIszuslTwCLcB/s640/volcanes.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Guest House at Los Volcanes</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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This little gem owned by a German family sits in a pristine mesic forest in the buffer zone of Amboro National Park. It has trails, friendly hosts and great food. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y2ncc9qdp0o/WGGGP1h46FI/AAAAAAABQfQ/5Ncek50Dv4M3ykVtixQAybdy_FfOKwdoQCLcB/s1600/Two-banded%2BWarbler.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="380" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y2ncc9qdp0o/WGGGP1h46FI/AAAAAAABQfQ/5Ncek50Dv4M3ykVtixQAybdy_FfOKwdoQCLcB/s640/Two-banded%2BWarbler.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two-banded Warbler, the most ubiquitous bird at Los Volcanes</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HGEDXqQn94Y/WGGGVG5PnBI/AAAAAAABQfU/uVxZ0JoeEQYMJKWvqRfN5ZySbuHvaoNiACLcB/s1600/Plush-crested%2BJay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="416" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HGEDXqQn94Y/WGGGVG5PnBI/AAAAAAABQfU/uVxZ0JoeEQYMJKWvqRfN5ZySbuHvaoNiACLcB/s640/Plush-crested%2BJay.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plush-crested Jay, the second-most ubiquitous bird at Los Volcanes</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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If it just had a few banana and nectar feeders, it would be the full neotropical birding lodge experience. Fortunately, we don't mind working for our birds.</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ROdToI4BBfo/WGGFq70H5uI/AAAAAAABQfA/vSRQ7o3dWvwe6jDE8RV2bhZHK2JY2g_mwCLcB/s1600/Amazonian%2BMotmot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="500" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ROdToI4BBfo/WGGFq70H5uI/AAAAAAABQfA/vSRQ7o3dWvwe6jDE8RV2bhZHK2JY2g_mwCLcB/s640/Amazonian%2BMotmot.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Amazonian Motmot</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-19cnM_c9_Bw/WGGFq4xMegI/AAAAAAABQe8/YuJxvjSfo-0ExYS8clF4bjhhpFAv7R_MQCLcB/s1600/Barred%2BWoodcreeper.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="520" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-19cnM_c9_Bw/WGGFq4xMegI/AAAAAAABQe8/YuJxvjSfo-0ExYS8clF4bjhhpFAv7R_MQCLcB/s640/Barred%2BWoodcreeper.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Black-banded Woodcreeper</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1DzNDG1X6Ac/WGGFfPtgZfI/AAAAAAABQe4/bm6yhI9N38YGhy_NoQTEU8T08l_3S6epgCLcB/s1600/Black-goggled%2BTanager.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="392" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1DzNDG1X6Ac/WGGFfPtgZfI/AAAAAAABQe4/bm6yhI9N38YGhy_NoQTEU8T08l_3S6epgCLcB/s640/Black-goggled%2BTanager.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Black-goggled Tanager</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Los Volcanes was hard for me to characterize. The forest isn't quite wet and it isn't quite dry. And the Avifauna are part Amazonian, part Andean. It's the only place where I've seen both Andean Condor and King Vulture.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VvOrzTNz5v4/WGGF3cgNPzI/AAAAAAABQfE/Q3B-kh3e0ZY-eEKj-wIrttVSZ9k9nxYugCLcB/s1600/Chestnut-eared%2BAracari.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="438" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VvOrzTNz5v4/WGGF3cgNPzI/AAAAAAABQfE/Q3B-kh3e0ZY-eEKj-wIrttVSZ9k9nxYugCLcB/s640/Chestnut-eared%2BAracari.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Chestnut-eared Aracari</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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There's lots of bamboo in the area. Although we dipped on Bolivian Recurvebill, the bamboo seeds brought in raucous flocks of parrots.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a8QDbIkvk1M/WGGGK1BbQkI/AAAAAAABQfM/Ea3-acigyWU9Q67HtF0BZVF4j4o7ZHCpACLcB/s1600/Mitred%2BParakeet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="420" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a8QDbIkvk1M/WGGGK1BbQkI/AAAAAAABQfM/Ea3-acigyWU9Q67HtF0BZVF4j4o7ZHCpACLcB/s640/Mitred%2BParakeet.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mitred Parakeet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-a5N23pzpLkA/WGGGB2maqPI/AAAAAAABQfI/fEXCHutR5JsW46KSZWdsc2FazGJUErVggCLcB/s1600/Green-cheeked%2BParakeet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="370" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-a5N23pzpLkA/WGGGB2maqPI/AAAAAAABQfI/fEXCHutR5JsW46KSZWdsc2FazGJUErVggCLcB/s640/Green-cheeked%2BParakeet.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Green-cheeked Parakeet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Three fulls days to bird Los Volcanes was plenty. By the end we had nearly run out of targets. We only knew this because ornithologists had put together an annotated checklist of the local bird life (very useful!). </div>
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Back in Santa Cruz we had fun on our last morning in Bolivia at Lomas de Arena, a site characterized by some huge sand dunes. We wanted to actually stay at a lodge on site, but nobody answered any of the 4 phone numbers we found for them and they didn’t reply to our emails (now that is how you run a business!). We hired a taxi to take us out there and he promptly got stuck in the sand. No problem we’ll head out and begin birding by foot. Everybody said it never rains in Santa Cruz this time of year, so of course we were unprepared for the ensuing rain and cold. The expectation was dry and brutally hot.</div>
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We would take refuge where we could and then bird between showers.</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KmopCVg4Ons/WGFS5z8EVLI/AAAAAAABQeY/SanZXIbJv0MYPYLOOBverA0M-2Tjl4FcACLcB/s1600/Burrowing%2BOwl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="494" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KmopCVg4Ons/WGFS5z8EVLI/AAAAAAABQeY/SanZXIbJv0MYPYLOOBverA0M-2Tjl4FcACLcB/s640/Burrowing%2BOwl.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a very soggy Burrowing Owl, Lomas de Arena</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZnJh83cyK8g/WGFSw5HwYEI/AAAAAAABQeU/NtaRQii9ofI81CSeGWAHR3JBLC5s6cCuACLcB/s1600/Campo%2BFlicker.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="464" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZnJh83cyK8g/WGFSw5HwYEI/AAAAAAABQeU/NtaRQii9ofI81CSeGWAHR3JBLC5s6cCuACLcB/s640/Campo%2BFlicker.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Campo Flickers, Lomas de Arena</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H0Qw7diEPAU/WGFTB0xsuyI/AAAAAAABQec/K-Aqdpal2LgeGaumEh0xyN63tWgqi4s6gCLcB/s1600/Red-legged%2BSeriema.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H0Qw7diEPAU/WGFTB0xsuyI/AAAAAAABQec/K-Aqdpal2LgeGaumEh0xyN63tWgqi4s6gCLcB/s640/Red-legged%2BSeriema.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red-legged Seriema, Lomas de Arena</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The taxi driver managed to un-stick himself and picked us up
several hours later. We never made it to the lagoon that was supposed to be
full of birds and somewhere near the sand dunes. But we weren’t too bothered
since wetland birds were unlikely to be new for us anyway. We made it out in
time to pack up at the hotel and head for the airport. But we saved an extra
hour to do some birding at the airport with a taxi driver. It was cold and
blowing hard…terrible conditions for birding open grasslands. And we ended up
driving around seeing nothing for about half an hour. Finally on the last road
we checked we found our target and final Bolivian bird, the Greater Rhea.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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So that's Bolivia. The birds are excellent, but access is full of challenges. 239 birds in 11 days sounds like a lot, but consider that similar effort in Colombia or Ecuador could easily yield twice that number. Bolivia has too many birds and endemics to ignore, but if you do decide to go, definitely consider hiring a guide and/or driver to arrange the logistics.<br />
<br />
Despite the hardships, Bolivia (and Los Volcanes) will forever hold a special place in our hearts since it is where we got engaged!</div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09036340024818230677noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2751020401972674507.post-24071184789980516052016-12-07T05:00:00.000-05:002016-12-11T20:20:02.277-05:00Southern Peru: How to get 500 birds in two weeks<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Southern Peru is on the tourist map because of Machu Picchu.
That, and the lovely gateway city of Cuzco, have drawn tourists from all over the
globe for decades to what might otherwise be just another section of the
longest mountain chain in the world. <br />
<br />
As a result of long history of foreign visitors, infrastructure for birders
wishing to explore some of the world’s best birding sites is top notch, with
swanky tourist lodges ranging down the elevational gradient of the Manu Road and into the fringes of the Manu Biosphere along the
Madre de Dios.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dIfh-Ctnc7Q/WEBlS_SciwI/AAAAAAABPaE/van1RDjmPkU1ver_JUPQNsKJWTqFwrQhwCLcB/s1600/Manu%2Belevation%2Bgradient.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="396" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dIfh-Ctnc7Q/WEBlS_SciwI/AAAAAAABPaE/van1RDjmPkU1ver_JUPQNsKJWTqFwrQhwCLcB/s640/Manu%2Belevation%2Bgradient.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Manu elevational gradient</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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While the bird diversity along this route is staggering for
the uninitiated, it can be experienced in relative comfort. This is a trip worth sharing. So Natalia and
I, who were already in Lima for a wedding, assembled a small group of birders
and set off on a two-week extreme birding trip.<br />
<br />
We hired one of Peru's top guides: birding animal, extreme-machine, Gustavo Bautista, who is Peru’s 4-time
eBird big year champion (his 5th consecutive crown is nearly in the bag now).<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YjlQX9xzynQ/WEc4Q4i9ahI/AAAAAAABPgs/0tOii1ftRbIwzzurP89xy6jZ8qB5xRZDwCLcB/s1600/Gustavo%2Bextreme%2Bbirder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="610" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YjlQX9xzynQ/WEc4Q4i9ahI/AAAAAAABPgs/0tOii1ftRbIwzzurP89xy6jZ8qB5xRZDwCLcB/s640/Gustavo%2Bextreme%2Bbirder.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gustavo Bautista, extreme birder and our guide</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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He’s also sponsored by Vortex, something he’s not shy about.<o:p></o:p></div>
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With Gustavo leading us, we absolutely crushed our route.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i3BXb3oROvY/WDL72uTVTsI/AAAAAAABPS4/I_nt5PynSt4BnLGUfpLbVQkC8_vhzCRSgCLcB/s1600/Souther%2BPeru%2Broute.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="378" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i3BXb3oROvY/WDL72uTVTsI/AAAAAAABPS4/I_nt5PynSt4BnLGUfpLbVQkC8_vhzCRSgCLcB/s640/Souther%2BPeru%2Broute.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The route, starting in Cuzco (A) and ending in Puerto Maldonado (airplane), with stops at Huacarpay Lakes (B), Wayquecha Lodge (C), Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge (D), Amazonia Lodge (E), Tambo Blanquillo (bed), Los Amigos (binoculars). The segments not traced in blue were covered by boat along the Madre de Dios River. Natalia and I continued by plane from Pto. Maldonado to Puno on the shores of Lake Titicaca (not pictured)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Our first stop was Huarcapay Lake near Cuzco where we
scored Many-colored Rush-Tyrant, Andean Negrito, Plumbeous Rail and various
ducks. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-e7NqkgrF-G4/WDL87Z046JI/AAAAAAABPTA/_t61B3Xxcz8NvVlbREE5ZCNgqPdFHLpkACLcB/s1600/P1110822.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-e7NqkgrF-G4/WDL87Z046JI/AAAAAAABPTA/_t61B3Xxcz8NvVlbREE5ZCNgqPdFHLpkACLcB/s640/P1110822.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wetlands at Huacarpay Lakes</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Tel_hL1igvA/WDMs7WSCjyI/AAAAAAABPT0/SK4SNN-QZZ86Knih4tPCZIQXEh5oySO2wCLcB/s1600/Yellow-billed%2BPintail%2Band%2BPuna%2BTeal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="529" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Tel_hL1igvA/WDMs7WSCjyI/AAAAAAABPT0/SK4SNN-QZZ86Knih4tPCZIQXEh5oySO2wCLcB/s640/Yellow-billed%2BPintail%2Band%2BPuna%2BTeal.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Puna Teal and Yellow-billed Pintail, Huacarpay Lakes</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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In addition to the high altitude wetland denizens, there's some nearby scrubby arid habitats that provide opportunities for a variety of altiplano species that we wouldn't get chances for later on the route.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Iu-mFklK98E/WDMs203Bq_I/AAAAAAABPTk/YyuUgc94s8E8cC0rZ1ku1-SB22mBI-B4wCLcB/s1600/Greenish%2BYellow-Finch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Iu-mFklK98E/WDMs203Bq_I/AAAAAAABPTk/YyuUgc94s8E8cC0rZ1ku1-SB22mBI-B4wCLcB/s640/Greenish%2BYellow-Finch.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Greenish Yellow-Finch (which can't help but be called 'Yellowish Green--Finch" on occasion)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x3SH2FdIFMI/WDMs3dskTyI/AAAAAAABPTs/3WU8_i0lljc2Ybsl1ks1uJXsbnmU4WoTQCLcB/s1600/Rusty%2BFlowerpiercer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="372" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x3SH2FdIFMI/WDMs3dskTyI/AAAAAAABPTs/3WU8_i0lljc2Ybsl1ks1uJXsbnmU4WoTQCLcB/s640/Rusty%2BFlowerpiercer.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rusty Flowerpiercer, near Huacarpay Lakes</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vjh2Mat8_rM/WDMs5D6yhSI/AAAAAAABPTw/PKMFxzwMe2EHxDSXsjOWc9y9Vyckc0qeQCLcB/s1600/Yellow-bellied%2BTit-Tyrant.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="432" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vjh2Mat8_rM/WDMs5D6yhSI/AAAAAAABPTw/PKMFxzwMe2EHxDSXsjOWc9y9Vyckc0qeQCLcB/s640/Yellow-bellied%2BTit-Tyrant.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yellow-bellied Tit-Tyrant</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
One of the best birds from this stretch was a random roadside stake-out (thanks Gustavo!).<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ms-xqEWFXVI/WDMs3E1TAjI/AAAAAAABPTo/5EA4Gczgm5QkOmrrdqp4VMe5_-9_KfD4gCLcB/s1600/Chestnut-breasted%2BMountain-Finch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="402" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ms-xqEWFXVI/WDMs3E1TAjI/AAAAAAABPTo/5EA4Gczgm5QkOmrrdqp4VMe5_-9_KfD4gCLcB/s640/Chestnut-breasted%2BMountain-Finch.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch (female), a Peruvian endemic</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<o:p>Unfortunately the male didn't pose for photos.</o:p></div>
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<br />
We carried on to the entrance to the famous Manu Road, great place to stumble around in the fog and frozen grass trying in vain to see some silly skulking bird, like a tapaculo or Scribble-tailed Canastero.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GhVX4oU6LCw/WEBlipAafvI/AAAAAAABPag/ZAhzkc0CNz8LDi9lP5jTdjXMEBMKQNCygCLcB/s1600/group%2Bat%2BManu%2Bsign.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="588" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GhVX4oU6LCw/WEBlipAafvI/AAAAAAABPag/ZAhzkc0CNz8LDi9lP5jTdjXMEBMKQNCygCLcB/s640/group%2Bat%2BManu%2Bsign.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The team at the entrance to Manu National Park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aF8nAiZCn4I/WEBlgoyebtI/AAAAAAABPac/7qJimAT_7zMV0R5A7l2xdPe6_gcQuRBiwCLcB/s1600/White-browed%2BConebill.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="402" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aF8nAiZCn4I/WEBlgoyebtI/AAAAAAABPac/7qJimAT_7zMV0R5A7l2xdPe6_gcQuRBiwCLcB/s640/White-browed%2BConebill.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White-browed Conebill near the Manu Road entrance</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
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We stayed at the Wayquecha
Lodge, the highest altitude lodging along the road. This spot is built primarily for researchers, but I think montane forest
is a harder sell for undergrads than lowland Amazonia (no monkeys that high,
plus its cold). As a result they’ve learned to really roll out the red carpet
for visiting tourists. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VfOysNfA9cg/WEBlY-MAFYI/AAAAAAABPaM/w_YjsL2KgE8V5cGi8vD819leaOhK9UlTgCLcB/s1600/Manu%2Bvalley.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VfOysNfA9cg/WEBlY-MAFYI/AAAAAAABPaM/w_YjsL2KgE8V5cGi8vD819leaOhK9UlTgCLcB/s640/Manu%2Bvalley.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View down into the Manu</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Wayquecha is the perfect base for exploring the habitats above 2000 meters. Our strategy was to drive along slowly until we hit a flock.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GXq8gLDzlGI/WEBlRB0eZEI/AAAAAAABPaA/bT6AURCUqQQ6Ze-cibU1vaOC7ptSp5mDwCLcB/s1600/Gray-breasted%2BMountain-Toucan1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="412" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GXq8gLDzlGI/WEBlRB0eZEI/AAAAAAABPaA/bT6AURCUqQQ6Ze-cibU1vaOC7ptSp5mDwCLcB/s640/Gray-breasted%2BMountain-Toucan1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What's that in the bushes?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cDhuv_gZxxo/WEBlV1IngTI/AAAAAAABPaI/onoszqJarT0DdLVsxnvYvJQ_yd2Zo_D8ACLcB/s1600/Gray-breasted%2BMountain-Toucan2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cDhuv_gZxxo/WEBlV1IngTI/AAAAAAABPaI/onoszqJarT0DdLVsxnvYvJQ_yd2Zo_D8ACLcB/s640/Gray-breasted%2BMountain-Toucan2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oh! One of our main targets, the Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan (Near-threatened)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KbmzCTBbQKw/WEBldmrEc7I/AAAAAAABPaU/s0XZudsLKjkPqTskPaUwegXK48sVWdZtACLcB/s1600/Red-crested%2BCotinga2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="438" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KbmzCTBbQKw/WEBldmrEc7I/AAAAAAABPaU/s0XZudsLKjkPqTskPaUwegXK48sVWdZtACLcB/s640/Red-crested%2BCotinga2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Red-crested Cotinga, Manu Road</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0E4esGkvl6w/WEBlbJExz6I/AAAAAAABPaQ/IWkM2pna6-ovLzBagVQYyO6s4PNfbhk2wCLcB/s1600/Red-crested%2BCotinga1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0E4esGkvl6w/WEBlbJExz6I/AAAAAAABPaQ/IWkM2pna6-ovLzBagVQYyO6s4PNfbhk2wCLcB/s640/Red-crested%2BCotinga1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There's the red crest</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lmLyO87VyCQ/WEBlJQi-jMI/AAAAAAABPZ0/om1zsFhLNAkV95PPEjUgrj66vfq05_XNwCLcB/s1600/Black-backed%2BGrosbeak.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="442" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lmLyO87VyCQ/WEBlJQi-jMI/AAAAAAABPZ0/om1zsFhLNAkV95PPEjUgrj66vfq05_XNwCLcB/s640/Black-backed%2BGrosbeak.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black-backed Grosbeak</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-p3d2Nr7hcBo/WEBlf4baUMI/AAAAAAABPaY/lnD-wwxJhv84UczSNO0jiw-g4e8MY8lHQCLcB/s1600/Tyrian%2BMetaltail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="464" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-p3d2Nr7hcBo/WEBlf4baUMI/AAAAAAABPaY/lnD-wwxJhv84UczSNO0jiw-g4e8MY8lHQCLcB/s640/Tyrian%2BMetaltail.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tyrian Metaltail</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
This strategy really helped rack up the flocking birds and then Gustavo had some special locations for trickier targets, such as Red-and-White Antpitta. He even called a friend for the latest intel on Andean Potoo!</div>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-k_ToIgotb-s/WEBlKuMnRNI/AAAAAAABPZ4/zZ337N5YvgQzKVuQiD3KSJPm2L9WE_yDgCLcB/s1600/Andean%2BPotoo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="630" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-k_ToIgotb-s/WEBlKuMnRNI/AAAAAAABPZ4/zZ337N5YvgQzKVuQiD3KSJPm2L9WE_yDgCLcB/s640/Andean%2BPotoo.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andean Potoo, Manu Road</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The other great thing about Gustavo, is that he never gets tired. He would recite his policy about only including 2 night walks per week, but then wouldn't be able to help himself and take us out for a long owling session for the third straight night.<br />
<br />
Near Wayquecha we heard some strange owl (a <i>Strix</i>) that may have been a Rufous-banded Owl. We never saw it, but as we tried to track it down, we flushed a nightjar off the road:<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P5URRh3NjlY/WEBlL-60FJI/AAAAAAABPZ8/Q0_V1ABSZs49Rh-X5_eXVvf8SHJDKYqAQCLcB/s1600/Band-winged%2BNightjar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="442" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P5URRh3NjlY/WEBlL-60FJI/AAAAAAABPZ8/Q0_V1ABSZs49Rh-X5_eXVvf8SHJDKYqAQCLcB/s640/Band-winged%2BNightjar.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Band-winged Nightjar, a nice surprise on Manu Road</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
We could have easily stayed another couple nights at Wayquecha, but we had lower elevation species to find. At 1400 m, the Cock-of-the-rock Lodge sits right at my favorite happy medium. I'm biased because I lived at this elevation in Ecuador for 6 months, but I feel like the birds here are a bit more diverse and colorful than they are higher up. Also the weather is perfect here; not too cold, not too hot. And unlike the lowland forest birds, submontane birds are reasonably easy to see well.<br />
<br />
The moment we arrived at Cock-of-the-Rock there happened to be a
frantic rush of bird activity at the lodge’s ‘backyard,’ which is strategically
loaded with hummingbird and banana feeders. All kinds of birds were all showing
up at once and everybody was calling things out on top of each other. Many
people were too scared to go pee, no matter how badly their bladders ached from
the bumpy ride down. It was capped off
by a squawking flyover from a pair of Military Macaws.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dM5ToHqZD6Y/WEbUagxc1hI/AAAAAAABPdc/gA11lXwumKMGKrCGTurfEYjrzXmQ5eC9ACLcB/s1600/Amazonian%2BMotmot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dM5ToHqZD6Y/WEbUagxc1hI/AAAAAAABPdc/gA11lXwumKMGKrCGTurfEYjrzXmQ5eC9ACLcB/s640/Amazonian%2BMotmot.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amazonian Motmot at Cock-of-the-Rock lodge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MyV0jLaXynM/WEbUe5OhE6I/AAAAAAABPdk/bMwFQl8R9fA8QB7SwcqJIKcYOAPzzcfYACLcB/s1600/Russet-backed%2BOropendolas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="418" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MyV0jLaXynM/WEbUe5OhE6I/AAAAAAABPdk/bMwFQl8R9fA8QB7SwcqJIKcYOAPzzcfYACLcB/s640/Russet-backed%2BOropendolas.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Russet-backed Oropenolas began raining from the sky to assault the mango</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After a few hours we finally managed to peel ourselves away from the feeders only to stumble upon a sweat bird just across the road:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zNrvwz5LDUI/WEbUXqFxk_I/AAAAAAABPdU/_k-5kMxp-IU8HpyqgAAVmmWgLGRT58L8gCLcB/s1600/Amazonian%2BUmbrellabird.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zNrvwz5LDUI/WEbUXqFxk_I/AAAAAAABPdU/_k-5kMxp-IU8HpyqgAAVmmWgLGRT58L8gCLcB/s640/Amazonian%2BUmbrellabird.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amazonian Umbrellabird</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
More crowd-pleasers along the Manu Road mid-elevations:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HfuFdxiYEEw/WEbUZaHVciI/AAAAAAABPdY/bwJRkaIMqC4U510tGKBr1nT9M6AQbCwzACLcB/s1600/Golden-headed%2BQuetzal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="582" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HfuFdxiYEEw/WEbUZaHVciI/AAAAAAABPdY/bwJRkaIMqC4U510tGKBr1nT9M6AQbCwzACLcB/s640/Golden-headed%2BQuetzal.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Golden-headed Quetzal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cLbauPZtL7I/WEbUc0ON9VI/AAAAAAABPdg/rlcfWUt0hEkpnZm-APs_aKyoa0-TThVlwCLcB/s1600/Lanceolated%2BMonklet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="396" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cLbauPZtL7I/WEbUc0ON9VI/AAAAAAABPdg/rlcfWUt0hEkpnZm-APs_aKyoa0-TThVlwCLcB/s640/Lanceolated%2BMonklet.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The elusive Lanceolated Monklet just sat for us (the behavior that makes them tough to find), a great spot by Gustavo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After a couple wonderful nights at Cock-of-the-rock, we
continued downhill, eventually reaching the river where we parted ways with our
driver and set off by boat to reach the Amazonia Lodge. Again, some of the most amazing birding was
right in the yard where the feeders ensured constant action. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8WObgftatCY/WEbUytA4w8I/AAAAAAABPd0/gaEhUYJdOcYjpI4t95S_osKmjwTlvqZZQCLcB/s1600/Violet-headed%2BHummingbird.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="336" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8WObgftatCY/WEbUytA4w8I/AAAAAAABPd0/gaEhUYJdOcYjpI4t95S_osKmjwTlvqZZQCLcB/s640/Violet-headed%2BHummingbird.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Violet-headed Hummingbird</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_8bf0cNeDEw/WEbUs06sJXI/AAAAAAABPdo/Gx72NcMgm9EiKZbTSbgrliduLG-C2O5pwCLcB/s1600/Rufous-crested%2BCoquette.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="366" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_8bf0cNeDEw/WEbUs06sJXI/AAAAAAABPdo/Gx72NcMgm9EiKZbTSbgrliduLG-C2O5pwCLcB/s640/Rufous-crested%2BCoquette.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rufous-crested Coquette</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
When they put out the rice the tanagers are first to arrive:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YpwisdfLR20/WEbUvzSQWfI/AAAAAAABPds/D4SIIwsQTFIAPFNxJ-Qx4HLCchGxmJJfgCLcB/s1600/Tanager%2Bfeeder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="402" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YpwisdfLR20/WEbUvzSQWfI/AAAAAAABPds/D4SIIwsQTFIAPFNxJ-Qx4HLCchGxmJJfgCLcB/s640/Tanager%2Bfeeder.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red-capped Cardinal, Black-billed Thrush, Palm, Masked Crimson and Silver-beaked Tanagers</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Then come the gluttonous chachalacas<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9r5K3uoTaj8/WEbUwHxLBnI/AAAAAAABPdw/tEnDkkNO9eIDFbNfnE3jCX8Yi8_fdaJdACLcB/s1600/Speckled%2BChachalacas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="416" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9r5K3uoTaj8/WEbUwHxLBnI/AAAAAAABPdw/tEnDkkNO9eIDFbNfnE3jCX8Yi8_fdaJdACLcB/s640/Speckled%2BChachalacas.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Speckled Chachalaca scrum at Amazonia Lodge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We visited the canopy tower our first day. Things started off very slow for the first
few hours until finally we had a flock come in and then a beautiful White Hawk
gave us a visit.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At night Gustavo showed off once again by calling in Tawny-bellied Screech-Owls, then we had a real surreal experience as we came face-to-face with a Mountain Lion not 50 meters from the lodge. This was a lifer for Gustavo. Wow!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Amazonia Lodge is showing its age a bit and the quality of the
rooms isn’t quite up to par with some of the newer more expensive lodges. But
it’s still great value for money, plus it’s family-run and great to see
everybody working together to make the place function.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
From Amazonia we got back on our boat for our first major 8
hour boat trip. Weather was rainy and cold. Luckily our boat was covered and the driver gave us some plastic sheets to block the wind and spray. We found a miserable-looking drenched Black Hawk-Eagle along the banks of the Manu.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rXUpWqdhOp4/WEbieZteeQI/AAAAAAABPfM/HzOuebgU1RcIpGiWhMSARFBl--niGkGrwCLcB/s1600/Black%2BHawk-Eagle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rXUpWqdhOp4/WEbieZteeQI/AAAAAAABPfM/HzOuebgU1RcIpGiWhMSARFBl--niGkGrwCLcB/s640/Black%2BHawk-Eagle.jpg" width="562" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black Hawk-Eagle in the rain</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Finally we arrived at Tambo Blanquillo, where
we stayed in dorm-style housing. This place offers cabins, but they’re really
expensive and don’t have the option for twin beds (queen only). This didn’t work with our budget or group
arrangement, so we pretended to be undergraduate coeds and made do in the dorms. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
The thing I really didn’t like about Tambo Blaquillo is that they make you pay extra for everything. Their famous clay lick costs $80 per person to visit—a small fortune in Peru. And when we went it was a total bust. Two Red-and-green Macaws came and looked at the clay wall and that was it. Surely it must be better some days because they had erected a huge 90-person blind on stilts.<br />
<br />
The canopy tower, on the other hand, was well worth the cost of admission. In fact, I'd say it's the best canopy tower I've ever visited.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3kuTCa6HL9M/WEbVq1Qal5I/AAAAAAABPeM/Axcie2RTJgA2R84VRRrZDInz4Y3lDprMACLcB/s1600/Canopy%2Btree.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3kuTCa6HL9M/WEbVq1Qal5I/AAAAAAABPeM/Axcie2RTJgA2R84VRRrZDInz4Y3lDprMACLcB/s640/Canopy%2Btree.jpg" width="570" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gigantic Ceiba tree that holds the Tambo Blanquillo canopy tower</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JQ974Z6S51U/WEbVon_5LQI/AAAAAAABPeE/WzbL9CwkP6MkrBilifCg7lniQ2MpOXYGACLcB/s1600/Chestnut-crowned%2BBecard.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="482" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JQ974Z6S51U/WEbVon_5LQI/AAAAAAABPeE/WzbL9CwkP6MkrBilifCg7lniQ2MpOXYGACLcB/s640/Chestnut-crowned%2BBecard.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chestnut-crowned Becard, Tambo Blanquillo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xImWH64vND8/WEbVvv5gpNI/AAAAAAABPeU/rviKNZb-HSgL_L2GXF_B5DMyOs7_j_tiACLcB/s1600/Plum-throated%2BCotinga.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="452" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xImWH64vND8/WEbVvv5gpNI/AAAAAAABPeU/rviKNZb-HSgL_L2GXF_B5DMyOs7_j_tiACLcB/s640/Plum-throated%2BCotinga.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The best canopy tower moment: when this Plum-throated Cotinga lit in the crown just above our heads</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The oxbow lakes are also well worth the cost and effort to explore. Actually there isn't much effort involved. The price tag includes a guy with an oar to paddle you around on a floating platform.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rd4_drIhG8g/WEbVyj_qPgI/AAAAAAABPec/pyOgXPqMaKEuRCGsb2Doc20OsRqkZ6KCACLcB/s1600/group%2Boxbow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="386" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rd4_drIhG8g/WEbVyj_qPgI/AAAAAAABPec/pyOgXPqMaKEuRCGsb2Doc20OsRqkZ6KCACLcB/s640/group%2Boxbow.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Super-relaxed birding on the oxbow lakes at Tambo Blanquillo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cjyw1KYUhH4/WEbVqEw71II/AAAAAAABPeI/6GVQX5WfKOw9q7Ps-yZlmgXGUiW5HESKwCLcB/s1600/Giant%2BOtter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="470" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cjyw1KYUhH4/WEbVqEw71II/AAAAAAABPeI/6GVQX5WfKOw9q7Ps-yZlmgXGUiW5HESKwCLcB/s640/Giant%2BOtter.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Watch out for Lobos del Rio ("River Wolves" also known as Giant Otters, endangered)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Some of the more photogenic bird life around the oxbows:</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sGZb8dHz-ms/WEbVtA4j0aI/AAAAAAABPeQ/PTlDj5DwzCASl6Gvh9pfoBBO3jw681tOACLcB/s1600/Ladder-tailed%2BNightjar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="366" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sGZb8dHz-ms/WEbVtA4j0aI/AAAAAAABPeQ/PTlDj5DwzCASl6Gvh9pfoBBO3jw681tOACLcB/s640/Ladder-tailed%2BNightjar.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ladder-tailed Nightjar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PuLeqWVzNm0/WEbVxJQ8_UI/AAAAAAABPeY/YW-Ae5trdyghkke5K2RwHOyuP3UHNSlAACLcB/s1600/Purus%2BJacamar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="444" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PuLeqWVzNm0/WEbVxJQ8_UI/AAAAAAABPeY/YW-Ae5trdyghkke5K2RwHOyuP3UHNSlAACLcB/s640/Purus%2BJacamar.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Purus Jacamar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The birds at Tambo Blanquillo were really nice and we could
have easily spent another few days there without reaching diminishing
returns. But after the three nights we
were happy to press on to our final lodge, Los Amigos.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The "Centro de Investigacion y Capacitacion Rio Los Amigos" is managed by the same NGO that runs Wayqecha,
but unlike Wayqecha, students and researchers are the bread and butter at Los
Amigos, with tourist-level catering more of an afterthought. The biggest
surprise here was the lack of flexibility for meal timing. Every other lodge had
been happy to feed us full breakfasts at vampiric hours, but Los Amigos with a
few dozen undergraduate students to feed just couldn’t offer that kind of
flexibility.<br />
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The station’s best asset for birders, was a PhD student
named <a href="https://msu.edu/~will2424/">Sean Williams</a>. Sean was in the middle of his fifth and
final field season studying the behavior of mixed species understory flocks.
Having spent so many months in the forest paying attention to birds and with an
ear for their calls, he knew the location to the bush of just about every bird
in the forest surrounding the station. The only downside is that he had no idea
we were coming and thus had work to do for most of our time at the station.<br />
<br />
When we could grab him for an afternoon, though, the birding suddenly became like shooting
fish in a barrel. All the skulking tody-tyrants were casually revealed, thanks
to Sean’s ear and Gustavo’s tape. It was a shame we couldn’t spend more time
with Sean as there were a bunch of bamboo specialties we still needed to see
that he would have been able to show us in short order. Alas Los Amigos was
just a two-night stopover on our way out to Puerto Maldonado.</div>
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I don’t know why more birders don’t visit Los Amigos. Even
without Sean it’s still an awesome place to see lowland amazonian avifauna,
with essentially all the habitat types represented. There is certainly no shortage of primatologists who call it home.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ttzowtHPFHE/WEbWl8a17fI/AAAAAAABPew/AY01zq_LIWIQd1BjV_7WHwYgOiRt4tX7ACLcB/s1600/Titi%2Bmonkey.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="482" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ttzowtHPFHE/WEbWl8a17fI/AAAAAAABPew/AY01zq_LIWIQd1BjV_7WHwYgOiRt4tX7ACLcB/s640/Titi%2Bmonkey.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Titi Monkeys</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We saw several species of monkeys here in short order, as well as one big cat, a Jaguarundi--an unexpected surprise out in the open mid-morning.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
We picked up more than 100 bird species in our short stay, but as is typical in lowland Amazonia, photographic opportunities were few and far between.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5oj5MoY2BMM/WEbWjbIaqaI/AAAAAAABPes/yJqGsEEEBdYbD73gt8xST5pmPTvW5KMMACLcB/s1600/Pink-throated%2BBecard.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="626" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5oj5MoY2BMM/WEbWjbIaqaI/AAAAAAABPes/yJqGsEEEBdYbD73gt8xST5pmPTvW5KMMACLcB/s640/Pink-throated%2BBecard.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pink-throated Becard (female) Los Amigos</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LrML-3wj8SI/WEbWjLZqRVI/AAAAAAABPeo/deYgOMdfqLYkpZPrXS9nq-Nb5ONkWEglwCLcB/s1600/Blue-crowned%2BTrogon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="612" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LrML-3wj8SI/WEbWjLZqRVI/AAAAAAABPeo/deYgOMdfqLYkpZPrXS9nq-Nb5ONkWEglwCLcB/s640/Blue-crowned%2BTrogon.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Trogon (Blue-crowned), reliable lens fodder when all else fails</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OdsUpfYo6oE/WEbWjBN6AGI/AAAAAAABPek/SNVGKgzojcwr4UjoOrwWZ9MXkTu12WWfACLcB/s1600/Crested%2BOropendola.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="412" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OdsUpfYo6oE/WEbWjBN6AGI/AAAAAAABPek/SNVGKgzojcwr4UjoOrwWZ9MXkTu12WWfACLcB/s640/Crested%2BOropendola.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crested Oropendola dispalying at Los Amigos</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The bird that got away on this trip was a huge raptor that went soaring overhead while we were resting in a tree-fall gap. Only part of the group got views and it didn't stay visible for long, but I'm 95% sure it was a Crested Eagle. Better views desired by all though, so we kept it off the list...</div>
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After Los Amigos Natalia and I said goodbye to Gustavo and our birder friends and took off for Lake Titicaca and a trek across the border and into Bolivia, uncharted territory for both of us.</div>
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The Puno waterfront offers some interesting birding.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hap86u49Q5Q/WEcFpoTMKJI/AAAAAAABPfs/8Mo0VRW3bMAMKfV3uc5XNYaCkXOnDtGhgCLcB/s1600/Andean%2BLapwing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="466" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hap86u49Q5Q/WEcFpoTMKJI/AAAAAAABPfs/8Mo0VRW3bMAMKfV3uc5XNYaCkXOnDtGhgCLcB/s640/Andean%2BLapwing.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andean Lapwing, Puno</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FFhedsOi92g/WEcFoPqMA6I/AAAAAAABPfk/t08nFbnG0LMGQzwnO_MKU4WFb4Gk5enwACLcB/s1600/Chilean%2BFlamingo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="404" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FFhedsOi92g/WEcFoPqMA6I/AAAAAAABPfk/t08nFbnG0LMGQzwnO_MKU4WFb4Gk5enwACLcB/s640/Chilean%2BFlamingo.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chilean Flamingo, Puno</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mr2ylBmj9Ww/WEcFpDXMlzI/AAAAAAABPfo/xYd_GxNiIRUbkthSq_NMRroiTkKLdlVqgCLcB/s1600/Cinclodes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="440" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mr2ylBmj9Ww/WEcFpDXMlzI/AAAAAAABPfo/xYd_GxNiIRUbkthSq_NMRroiTkKLdlVqgCLcB/s640/Cinclodes.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cream-winged Cinclodes, Puno</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zS8jWCwsa6k/WEcFyY7Zl5I/AAAAAAABPf8/8mpxBzdpmIUEF0RyNTf7oiSfT42YrNvywCLcB/s1600/Wren-like%2BRush-Bird.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="440" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zS8jWCwsa6k/WEcFyY7Zl5I/AAAAAAABPf8/8mpxBzdpmIUEF0RyNTf7oiSfT42YrNvywCLcB/s640/Wren-like%2BRush-Bird.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wren-like Rushbird</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We visited the nearby Sillustani archaelogical site (for birds; our interest in archaeology is rather limited), mostly because it was easy to catch a bus there. Unfortunately the bus ticket came with a guide, who kept expecting us to stay with the group and care about the factoids he was regurgitating. Eventually, we convinced him to let us go wander off on our own so we could see a handful of lifers, lose track of time, and then make a bus full of tourists wait for us (standard irresponsible birder behavior).<br />
<br />
We also visited the floating islands of Uros, which is kind of becoming a tourist trap, but was so fascinating that I didn't particularly mind. There were plenty of birds to see on the boat ride there and back as well as while trapped on the islands.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LIvJIlEwE6Y/WEcFvfABRMI/AAAAAAABPfw/keabvGH908AIV6o9_a748jHSUFDdcBFOACLcB/s1600/Floating%2Bislands.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="332" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LIvJIlEwE6Y/WEcFvfABRMI/AAAAAAABPfw/keabvGH908AIV6o9_a748jHSUFDdcBFOACLcB/s640/Floating%2Bislands.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Uros floating islands on Lake Titicaca</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I23YJyAuyeY/WEcFvomUxCI/AAAAAAABPf4/Hc4AOwmU06M6p_D6WjaR33hXQ1BtQjOAACLcB/s1600/Many-colored%2BRush-Tyrant.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I23YJyAuyeY/WEcFvomUxCI/AAAAAAABPf4/Hc4AOwmU06M6p_D6WjaR33hXQ1BtQjOAACLcB/s640/Many-colored%2BRush-Tyrant.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Many-colored Rush-Tyrant, Uros. According to legend this bird stole all the colors from all the other tyranids. That's why flycatchers are so drab and boring, this guy is the exception that proves the rule.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-myVwladonOY/WEcFvvUwPdI/AAAAAAABPf0/W4Nny5ZGUz8-1egklWQnwduuGHxoJ9o2gCLcB/s1600/Titicaca%2BGrebe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="366" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-myVwladonOY/WEcFvvUwPdI/AAAAAAABPf0/W4Nny5ZGUz8-1egklWQnwduuGHxoJ9o2gCLcB/s640/Titicaca%2BGrebe.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The endangered Titicaca Grebe, Uros. Easy bird.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The Uros trip didn't net us any lifers that we wouldn't see later around the lake, but it was still a fun outing.<br />
<br />
As we left Peru, we naively expected more of the same from Bolivia. We were in for a shock. Peru's southeastern neighbor, with which it shares this great lake, the southern swath of Amazonia and so much bird life, is a world apart in terms of infrastructure and organization.<br />
<br />
But that's a topic for the next chapter. Stay tuned for birding in Bolivia.<br />
<br />
<i>Gustavo Bautista's email: </i><span style="background-color: #f1f0f0; color: #4b4f56; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; white-space: pre-wrap;">australbirder@gmail.com</span><br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09036340024818230677noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2751020401972674507.post-60205825142136618832016-11-14T15:54:00.000-05:002016-11-15T05:24:55.082-05:00How the West was birded<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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It's dark and miserable in Switzerland (snow on Nov. 7?!) and old world flycatchers and warblers are super boring, so let's flash back to happier times and a grand adventure out West.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rQBWHCrM4KY/WCDExbEwbCI/AAAAAAABKSs/ghUp9KN4SUABDx22AzecY4f-dVMBi-1jQCLcB/s1600/how%2Bthe%2Bwest%2Bwas%2Bbirded%2Bmap2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="472" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rQBWHCrM4KY/WCDExbEwbCI/AAAAAAABKSs/ghUp9KN4SUABDx22AzecY4f-dVMBi-1jQCLcB/s640/how%2Bthe%2Bwest%2Bwas%2Bbirded%2Bmap2.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The route, starting in San Fran and ending in LA, hitting up 7 national parks (Yosemite, Kings Canyon, Sequoia, Death Valley, Zion, Grand Canyon, Joshua Tree), one national disgrace (Las Vegas) and with a bonus add-on in South Texas.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
Natalia's parents flew up for our graduations and this was kind of a celebration trip. Non-birders involved, so it was not a 'birding trip' <i>per se,</i> but with the focus on national parks, it was pretty easy to be opportunistic. Heck, I scored 24 lifers. And that was before scooting off to Texas.<br />
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Since Natalia and I had already done a good bit of birding around LA the opportunities for lifers were slim for the first several days, so we'll just gloss over those except for some obligatory landmark pics:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Nj9jF_odCH4/WCGub-mzjKI/AAAAAAABLqw/IXeFaUdEkqoDNDWWOnuGnqaZQzCkKSErQCLcB/s1600/IMG_1836.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Nj9jF_odCH4/WCGub-mzjKI/AAAAAAABLqw/IXeFaUdEkqoDNDWWOnuGnqaZQzCkKSErQCLcB/s640/IMG_1836.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Golden Gate Bridge (sponsored by Hyundai)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YxuZPcd_hdM/WCGvxKhaC0I/AAAAAAABLsk/5bIl5zmp5qsklvXf7DlPdT6JM9GRHQRggCLcB/s1600/IMG_1850.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YxuZPcd_hdM/WCGvxKhaC0I/AAAAAAABLsk/5bIl5zmp5qsklvXf7DlPdT6JM9GRHQRggCLcB/s640/IMG_1850.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yosemite Valley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kc9JGKn9cYY/WCGvxh_T2dI/AAAAAAABLso/w3gIqJGpYS499c8AOXV5pgPdRRtoH8lSgCLcB/s1600/IMG_1874.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kc9JGKn9cYY/WCGvxh_T2dI/AAAAAAABLso/w3gIqJGpYS499c8AOXV5pgPdRRtoH8lSgCLcB/s640/IMG_1874.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">General Sherman Tree</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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During this stretch I was so desperate to see something new that I coerced the group into taking a small detour to a random city park outside Fresno to chase a
Yellow-billed Magpie. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EnyV7vW-ZbU/WBzNSeDQDAI/AAAAAAABEKE/Ma9Z-yv21TYLPGEm2M5T9Rqn3viLpN_xQCLcB/s1600/Yellow-billed%2BMagpie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="427" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EnyV7vW-ZbU/WBzNSeDQDAI/AAAAAAABEKE/Ma9Z-yv21TYLPGEm2M5T9Rqn3viLpN_xQCLcB/s640/Yellow-billed%2BMagpie.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yellow-billed Magpie, some park outside Fresno. This is one of the few birds endemic to the United States</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
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Score!<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
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After Sequoia we finally crossed the rain shadow to reach Death Valley, desert territory and the chance for some different bird life. The desolation surprised me with
its beauty.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mY3Hwzt0oWI/WCGwqtT01PI/AAAAAAABLtA/9fMQIYS1lvYRWX8ytc-zXIPWGfdIG4q7gCLcB/s1600/IMG_1876.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mY3Hwzt0oWI/WCGwqtT01PI/AAAAAAABLtA/9fMQIYS1lvYRWX8ytc-zXIPWGfdIG4q7gCLcB/s640/IMG_1876.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Death Valley. Last landscape shot from here on it will be all birds</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
At the Death Valley Visitor’s Center
we picked up Lucy’s Warbler, Verdin and the much-desired Greater Roadrunner. Awesome!<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lu7SoG77XMU/WBzNETyAshI/AAAAAAABEJ0/4gcP1JvJ4QocR7K5pmhQB2rJfitC4ZWuwCLcB/s1600/Warbling%2BVireo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="398" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lu7SoG77XMU/WBzNETyAshI/AAAAAAABEJ0/4gcP1JvJ4QocR7K5pmhQB2rJfitC4ZWuwCLcB/s640/Warbling%2BVireo.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I didn't manage any lifer photos in the 100+ degree heat, so have a Warbling Vireo instead. Death Valley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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I was dreading the obligatory stopover in Las Vegas, but it proved to offer some great birding opportunities at local parks not far from The Strip.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OAAK-aPvWlQ/WBzNfDZKNLI/AAAAAAABEKk/UCxDLb5eLRMaWSK2IiDcGXZma_cX4TxpACLcB/s1600/Gambel%2527s%2BQuail2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="468" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OAAK-aPvWlQ/WBzNfDZKNLI/AAAAAAABEKk/UCxDLb5eLRMaWSK2IiDcGXZma_cX4TxpACLcB/s640/Gambel%2527s%2BQuail2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unlike game birds in a lot of parts of the world, these silly-looking Gambel's Quail are parking lot birds around Las Vegas.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lC5ZvA3c_ww/WBzNe-S4LTI/AAAAAAABEKg/qk0Li58JJ-cB7JTUHqC6QExTLbNFiQ_zACLcB/s1600/Gambell%2527s%2BQuail1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="444" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lC5ZvA3c_ww/WBzNe-S4LTI/AAAAAAABEKg/qk0Li58JJ-cB7JTUHqC6QExTLbNFiQ_zACLcB/s640/Gambell%2527s%2BQuail1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I guess we were there during breeding season because this goof ball sat up for us to sing.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J8N8y7WA5DI/WBzNga1DfbI/AAAAAAABEKo/LkkaVrLWIvgY8lVIbUwm3sVYUTFncYo9QCLcB/s1600/Verdin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J8N8y7WA5DI/WBzNga1DfbI/AAAAAAABEKo/LkkaVrLWIvgY8lVIbUwm3sVYUTFncYo9QCLcB/s640/Verdin.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a skukling Verdin, one of my most-wanted desert birds in a park in Las Vegas</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We also scored Abert's Towhee, Black-tailed Gnatcatcher, Costa's Hummingbird and Crissal Thrasher.<br />
<br />
After surviving Vegas we took a "quick" detour by Zion National Park, which in retrospect, was a mistake. It added just a few hours of extra driving, but 4 hours is not nearly enough time to see this place. Heck, with the crowds it was barely enough time to park, have lunch and cram onto a bus for a spin around the valley.<br />
<br />
It almost paid off big time.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IlTqT5OWm3Y/WBzNiCV3ATI/AAAAAAABEKs/ijdOp5L-keMoQYIDQ13VvICDHvV5pdOMgCLcB/s1600/Condor%2Bhole.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="371" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IlTqT5OWm3Y/WBzNiCV3ATI/AAAAAAABEKs/ijdOp5L-keMoQYIDQ13VvICDHvV5pdOMgCLcB/s640/Condor%2Bhole.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">California Condors are nesting in this hole in Zion Canyon. This is great news for condor conservation. Unfortunately for us the birds did not make an appearance.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Had the California Condor showed up at this hole where the ranger told us it nests, the Zion jaunt would have been well worth the effort. But do yourself a favor and give this place at least a couple days.<br />
<br />
<br />
After Zion, it was on to the main
event, the Grand Canyon.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r0OArMoUV8U/WCohp0UPqkI/AAAAAAABPQA/Atc6Nxn-tHwbjc1tYBTv0W9PWcqFM2mTQCLcB/s1600/P1110536.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r0OArMoUV8U/WCohp0UPqkI/AAAAAAABPQA/Atc6Nxn-tHwbjc1tYBTv0W9PWcqFM2mTQCLcB/s640/P1110536.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">OK, I lied. This is also a landscape</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The view really crushes the birds here though. I was
surprised to find that Grand Canyon ended up being my favorite park of the seven. This was almost certainly because we took the time to slow down and stay a few days instead of
stopping to tick a box and rush off to the next long drive. Also key was
staying right in the park so we could get up at dawn to see the rim before the
rush of tour buses packed things out. This is what we did wrong at Yosemite and
Zion.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DBfmOng5sxg/WBzNTr7-TZI/AAAAAAABEKM/Qn-uY_gs4U0pMIM76P-DcGdEJqSBE3o2QCLcB/s1600/Black-throated%2BGray%2BWarbler.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="486" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DBfmOng5sxg/WBzNTr7-TZI/AAAAAAABEKM/Qn-uY_gs4U0pMIM76P-DcGdEJqSBE3o2QCLcB/s640/Black-throated%2BGray%2BWarbler.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black-throated Gray Warbler, Grand Canyon National Park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XSUhNQaLsyM/WBzNVh0f98I/AAAAAAABEKQ/jIcBvvYgF3ccIh80gVPqsMc7xoExx3LqwCLcB/s1600/Violet-green%2BSwallow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="434" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XSUhNQaLsyM/WBzNVh0f98I/AAAAAAABEKQ/jIcBvvYgF3ccIh80gVPqsMc7xoExx3LqwCLcB/s640/Violet-green%2BSwallow.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Violet-green Swallow at Grand Canyon National Park. Great shot for photo-stringing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dAFUrvOarew/WBzNYDbk7MI/AAAAAAABEKU/u2Mkd1l4gNksnyt4YvOMF9nJRqCNZ2g2gCLcB/s1600/White-breasted%2BNuthatch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="488" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dAFUrvOarew/WBzNYDbk7MI/AAAAAAABEKU/u2Mkd1l4gNksnyt4YvOMF9nJRqCNZ2g2gCLcB/s640/White-breasted%2BNuthatch.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White-breasted Nuthatch at Grand Canyon National Park. There are rumors that this bird may soon be split and have a new name. I have no idea what this one would be called.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Originally our plan had us cutting back through Vegas on the way
to LA, but, fortunately, we instead cut south through Arizona in order to
swing by Joshua Tree. In Arizona
we made tactical stops at Kaibab and Prescott State Forests.
These produced a nice haul: Red-faced Warbler, Painted Redstart,
Scott’s Oriole, Canyon Towhee, Gray Vireo and Bridled Titmouse.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Finally at Joshua Tree, our 7<sup>th</sup> and final park of
the tour, we found Rock Wren and Bendire’s Thrasher.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lzPaKwzx58s/WBzNYyww7eI/AAAAAAABEKY/6E8jwRQCaycdWO2zfYiKQIHn5wNsb6TnACLcB/s1600/Bendire%2527s%2BThrasher.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="385" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lzPaKwzx58s/WBzNYyww7eI/AAAAAAABEKY/6E8jwRQCaycdWO2zfYiKQIHn5wNsb6TnACLcB/s640/Bendire%2527s%2BThrasher.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bendire's Thrasher at Joshua Tree National Park, this bird is known to occur here, but apparently hasn't been photographed very often (or so the local eBird reviewer told me)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I caught a glimpse of what had to be a
LeConte’s Thrasher scurry between a couple bushes, but like some jerk magician, it vanished
into thin air. Do these things burrow
under the ground or something? Not yet a
nemesis bird, but I’ve got my eye on that one to show up later.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Delxm8meH8s/WBzNarc1XeI/AAAAAAABEKc/lbPC53a0GlAhm67r3f2oiz3p2NOxvda2wCLcB/s1600/Black-throated%2BSparrow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="384" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Delxm8meH8s/WBzNarc1XeI/AAAAAAABEKc/lbPC53a0GlAhm67r3f2oiz3p2NOxvda2wCLcB/s640/Black-throated%2BSparrow.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black-throated Sparrow at Joshua Tree National Park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
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After the long drive back to Los Angeles, Natalia continued the tour with her parents
down to San Diego, while I flew east to Corpus
Christi Texas for a wetlands conference.<br />
<br />
I don’t care too much for my
U.S. list or the ABA area, so instead of driving south to Brownsville, I headed west for more lifer opportunities in the arid
ecosystems around Falcon Dam State Park.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DE8jqk0GkQw/WBzNSdGrvRI/AAAAAAABEKI/e4JqggJhH-4kPuHWPbAiNgjulR_JhZscgCLcB/s1600/Pyrruloxia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="446" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DE8jqk0GkQw/WBzNSdGrvRI/AAAAAAABEKI/e4JqggJhH-4kPuHWPbAiNgjulR_JhZscgCLcB/s640/Pyrruloxia.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pyrruloxia at Falcon Dam State Park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I finally got the Pyrruloxia I had always wanted to see
after growing up surrounded by Northern Cardinals. What surprised me about this bird is that it
overlaps with the cardinal. I saw both
sing from the same bush by falcon lake. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uZ78ODEKW5s/WBzNLpxFOYI/AAAAAAABEKA/WUBCygpyIrQp8K6BF9ESnQieVIaIrO6iwCLcB/s1600/Curve-billed%2BThrasher.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="398" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uZ78ODEKW5s/WBzNLpxFOYI/AAAAAAABEKA/WUBCygpyIrQp8K6BF9ESnQieVIaIrO6iwCLcB/s640/Curve-billed%2BThrasher.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Curve-billed Thrasher, Falcon Dam State Park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LJiFT9HtZF8/WBzNLG_pYDI/AAAAAAABEJ8/B91TioviTIMvbt6QK9l5hX1avCkbjNxPACLcB/s1600/Inca%2BDove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="448" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LJiFT9HtZF8/WBzNLG_pYDI/AAAAAAABEJ8/B91TioviTIMvbt6QK9l5hX1avCkbjNxPACLcB/s640/Inca%2BDove.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inca Dove, Falcon Dam State Park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DPu6SR5FTwc/WBzNK5OPTMI/AAAAAAABEJ4/9XXhnxCTFKcWdwRoKGQLzrn7emhng6IiACLcB/s1600/Ladder-backed%2BWoodpecker.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DPu6SR5FTwc/WBzNK5OPTMI/AAAAAAABEJ4/9XXhnxCTFKcWdwRoKGQLzrn7emhng6IiACLcB/s640/Ladder-backed%2BWoodpecker.jpg" width="626" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ladder-backed Woodpecker</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Gray Hawk, Lesser Nighthawk and Olive Sparrow rounded out my Texas lifers, but I dipped out on the orioles. Altamira and Audubon’s both eluded me.<br />
<br /></div>
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Technically I got my first Mexican birds at Chapeno looking
across the Rio Grande (which is so narrow!), but I haven’t properly logged them
yet. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
From close range a border wall here seems even sillier than
it does in the abstract sense.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
My life knows no walls. This trip was really just a warm-up for the real post-graduation trip: six weeks in South America starting in Southern Peru and ended at Iguazu Falls in Brazil/Argentina. Stay tuned for that!</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09036340024818230677noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2751020401972674507.post-52497632722687982262016-11-05T06:41:00.001-04:002016-11-15T09:49:16.558-05:00Musing over Muscicapa (and fretting over Phylloscopus)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
Birding in Southeast Asia during the months of September and October brought with it the chance to see, in addition to all the amazing tropical residents, migrants recently arrived or in transit from northern mainland Asia.<br />
<br />
We began regularly seeing many little brown jobs at forest edges that look something like this:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q1LtwkXGXes/WA9zECJeOSI/AAAAAAAAsyc/zwu4R2yZF5AOg_c5umCHRpzDVed2o8f-wCLcB/s1600/Asian%2BBrown%2BFlycatcher2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="446" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q1LtwkXGXes/WA9zECJeOSI/AAAAAAAAsyc/zwu4R2yZF5AOg_c5umCHRpzDVed2o8f-wCLcB/s640/Asian%2BBrown%2BFlycatcher2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">This is a Muscicapa sp. at Wehea Forest (bird A), a bird you were quite happy to have not ever heard of</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Now I love the Phillips Guide to the Birds of Borneo (really... it's one of my all-time faves), but it simply isn't all that helpful with sorting out which Muscicapa one might be looking at, especially for an out-of-towner like myself.<br />
<br />
The book does at least lay out three likely candidates (which, confusingly, may actually be five).<br />
<br />
<b>1a. Asian Brown Flycatcher (<i>Muscicapa daurica daurica</i>)</b> - allegedly the most commonly seen migrant, but see 1b and 1c...<br />
<br />
<b>1b. Asian Brown Flycatcher (<i>Muscicapa daurica williamsoni</i>)</b> - apparently a rarer/overlooked/never recorded(?) migratory species/subspecies in Kalimantan.<br />
<br />
<b>1c. Asian Brown Flycatcher (<i>Muscicapa daurica umbrosa</i>)</b> - a scarce resident subspecies/species that breeds in lowland forest<br />
<br />
<b>2. Dark-sided Flycatcher (<i>Muscicapa sibirica</i>)</b> - a scarce migrant "Plumage is variable and this bird is easily confused with Grey-streaked Flycatcher. The extent and density of streaking varies from almost none to quite heavy. Breast is generally darker with streaks less contrasting than in Grey-streaked."<br />
<br />
<b>3. Gray-streaked Flycatcher (<i>Muscicapa griseisticta</i>)</b> - a scarce migrant "Usually more heavily streaked than Dark-sided Flycatcher with streaks more contrasting against a whiter background. Also white streak in front of the eye is more prominent than in Dark-sided Flycatcher, and tip of primary feathers i the same length as the tail..."<br />
<br />
If you could see the cartooning illustrations you would see the conundrum!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7SteMQH6G1Y/WA9zE9Z2LuI/AAAAAAAAsyw/q0k6vlnoxTAbLSlx4m9ZnfENzaEDowdEgCLcB/s1600/Asian%2BBrown%2BFlycatcher3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="454" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7SteMQH6G1Y/WA9zE9Z2LuI/AAAAAAAAsyw/q0k6vlnoxTAbLSlx4m9ZnfENzaEDowdEgCLcB/s640/Asian%2BBrown%2BFlycatcher3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">another Muscicapa sp at Wehea Forest (bird B)<br />
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<br />
The muscicapas kept piling up and I kept taking photos and focusing on more interesting birds.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_JJNsrntm8I/WA9zFUbu_CI/AAAAAAAAsy8/AHOV01G8Zj449L9o_Yc8O4_ofXW0lbfyQCLcB/s1600/Asian%2BBrown%2BFlycatcher.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="502" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_JJNsrntm8I/WA9zFUbu_CI/AAAAAAAAsy8/AHOV01G8Zj449L9o_Yc8O4_ofXW0lbfyQCLcB/s640/Asian%2BBrown%2BFlycatcher.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">yet another at Wehea (bird C). Most of the birds we saw in East Kalimantan looked like this. Blurry brown streaking</td></tr>
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My initial thinking on these first three birds is that given that there were so many around (more than just these three I photographed that gave a similar giss) that they must be the most common of the choices, which would be: 1a Asian Brown Flycatcher (<i>Muscicapa daurica daurica</i>).<br />
<br />
Then at Wehea I saw a different-looking musicapa:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3nMIgjd-zC4/WA9zG8RDjHI/AAAAAAAAszw/nCPubu9adAMgrv9c5j78C1P3OHw2FPYGACLcB/s1600/Dark-sided%2BFlycatcher.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="444" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3nMIgjd-zC4/WA9zG8RDjHI/AAAAAAAAszw/nCPubu9adAMgrv9c5j78C1P3OHw2FPYGACLcB/s640/Dark-sided%2BFlycatcher.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">4th individual Muscicapa sp at Wehea (bird D)<br />
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...instead of streaking on the underparts it has more of a matrix of dark blots and there's some dinginess to the undertail coverts where they seemed to be purely white on the previous birds.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8zIcf_7IuKM/WA9zFRtp3UI/AAAAAAAAsy4/OidiB4vW4wonTfehGigp2gauvPGhRVHtQCLcB/s1600/Dark-sided%2BFlycatcher%2Bimmature.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="462" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8zIcf_7IuKM/WA9zFRtp3UI/AAAAAAAAsy4/OidiB4vW4wonTfehGigp2gauvPGhRVHtQCLcB/s640/Dark-sided%2BFlycatcher%2Bimmature.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">bird D again<br />
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A closer look revealed this bird to an immature with pale spotting on the head and back, so probably just a young version of whatever the first three (A, B, C) were.<br />
<br />
At Merabu Village forest the <i>Muscicapa</i> continued to pile up.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q463mXirPng/WA9ydnVKSKI/AAAAAAAAsx0/glzyWrxTmbYOBYlodWwKyO2Qc2VtZgaAACLcB/s1600/Muscicapa%2Bsp%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="456" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q463mXirPng/WA9ydnVKSKI/AAAAAAAAsx0/glzyWrxTmbYOBYlodWwKyO2Qc2VtZgaAACLcB/s640/Muscicapa%2Bsp%2B1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><i>Muscicapa</i> at Merabu (bird E), looks like another young bird<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VTupPOArrHA/WA9yeO9begI/AAAAAAAAsx8/vPLXJKoJk0cr3076RDHpbatypQg-9kBEwCLcB/s1600/Muscicapa%2Bsp%2B3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="436" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VTupPOArrHA/WA9yeO9begI/AAAAAAAAsx8/vPLXJKoJk0cr3076RDHpbatypQg-9kBEwCLcB/s640/Muscicapa%2Bsp%2B3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Bird E again. Yeah, the pattern on the underparts looks a lot like bird D from Wehea<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_5Lgp1LQdHA/WA9yeK9Q-YI/AAAAAAAAsx4/-kpH0GtqTis-38NXCXL5U8wQOT_eREkkACLcB/s1600/Muscicapa%2Bsp%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="470" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_5Lgp1LQdHA/WA9yeK9Q-YI/AAAAAAAAsx4/-kpH0GtqTis-38NXCXL5U8wQOT_eREkkACLcB/s640/Muscicapa%2Bsp%2B2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">One final shot of bird E, just to show how much speckling young birds can have on the upperparts<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7xPPeQ0bR_E/WA9yfIGpHvI/AAAAAAAAsyA/NzBqEtyEoioY7nwf7M4GDFRa3mvI8TZ8QCLcB/s1600/Muscicapa%2Bsp%2Bpale.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="448" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7xPPeQ0bR_E/WA9yfIGpHvI/AAAAAAAAsyA/NzBqEtyEoioY7nwf7M4GDFRa3mvI8TZ8QCLcB/s640/Muscicapa%2Bsp%2Bpale.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Unfortunately I didn't get a great show of this bird at Merabu (bird F), but it appears to lack underpart streaking altogether... or perhaps just a photographic artifact?<br />
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What happened at Sungai Lesan? We saw more:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gamldB2EPTQ/WA9yxPE8zeI/AAAAAAAAsyI/vnFmWDCvM0YDmsvNc5b8_zhzyFoHr0yTgCLcB/s1600/Muscicapa%2B2%2Bsp%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gamldB2EPTQ/WA9yxPE8zeI/AAAAAAAAsyI/vnFmWDCvM0YDmsvNc5b8_zhzyFoHr0yTgCLcB/s640/Muscicapa%2B2%2Bsp%2B1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><i style="font-size: 12.8px;">Muscicapa at </i>Sungai Lesan (bird G) another young bird?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RpmADidAnzc/WA9yw8A6IpI/AAAAAAAAsyE/UQvREwnaoDwWvvA5iJF9FQq1K4pIqvPXACLcB/s1600/Muscicapa%2B2%2Bsp%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RpmADidAnzc/WA9yw8A6IpI/AAAAAAAAsyE/UQvREwnaoDwWvvA5iJF9FQq1K4pIqvPXACLcB/s640/Muscicapa%2B2%2Bsp%2B2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Bird G again</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kN6YJfdEvZs/WA9yxJAE9LI/AAAAAAAAsyM/NlhAMuoX2mUQvIcZyUyFtLCMUeqY1Nr8QCLcB/s1600/Muscicapa%2Bsp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="504" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kN6YJfdEvZs/WA9yxJAE9LI/AAAAAAAAsyM/NlhAMuoX2mUQvIcZyUyFtLCMUeqY1Nr8QCLcB/s640/Muscicapa%2Bsp.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">This is another bird (bird H) that is either significantly less streaked or the harsh light is tricking me. It's got some tail feather molt going on as well, which was not apparent in any other muscicapa we saw<br />
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Whatever these birds are, they are everywhere, so I just kind of assumed that they were all Asian Brown Flycatchers (a "common migrant").<br />
<br />
But then in Singapore we saw these guys:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5ScRNxhk49w/WA9yPrnRyKI/AAAAAAAAsxs/O9J0OcbasEUF7UmgB_pmJAUg5V8R7U0pwCLcB/s1600/Muscicapa%2Bsp%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="504" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5ScRNxhk49w/WA9yPrnRyKI/AAAAAAAAsxs/O9J0OcbasEUF7UmgB_pmJAUg5V8R7U0pwCLcB/s640/Muscicapa%2Bsp%2B1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">what the heck is this? (bird I)</td></tr>
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Is this even a <i>Muscicapa</i>?<br />
<br />
So my Singapore book is even less helpful for flycatcher ID because it doesn't exist.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-13cWLtS85CU/WA9yQmj_CZI/AAAAAAAAsxw/A01QpMm50U8ERYaQ4DHk6pZo0L89Va0lwCLcB/s1600/Muscicapa%2Bsp%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-13cWLtS85CU/WA9yQmj_CZI/AAAAAAAAsxw/A01QpMm50U8ERYaQ4DHk6pZo0L89Va0lwCLcB/s640/Muscicapa%2Bsp%2B2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">bird I again</td></tr>
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But I couldn't help but wonder if this Singapore bird (bird I) is the real Asian Brown Flycatcher (<i>Muscicapa d. d.</i>) and all the Borneo birds were Dark Sided Flycatchers (<i>Muscicapa sibirica</i>).<br />
<br />
Google imaging (for what that's worth, which is probably not much) seems to support this conclusion, but I feel like I'm missing something here.<br />
<br />
So, help a birder out and pass this post along to somebody who's experienced with Southeast Asia. I'd love to be set straight with this Muscicapa mess.<br />
<br />
Oh... and while you're at it, have a look at these <i>phylloscopus</i>.<br />
<br />
The old world warbler family was already tough enough, but then some asshole geneticist had to come along and split Arctic Warbler into three, the cryptic trio of Artic/Kamchatka Leaf/Japanese Leaf Warbler. Since they are mostly identified by voice and generally silent in winter, I'm not sure anybody yet has a great handle on their migration/wintering distributions (though I have read that the Japanese one prefers high elevations).<br />
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Also, these birds are about 100 times more difficult to photograph than muscicapa, so sorry for the poor quality.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7pAFJCTPAOQ/WB200SWJ1nI/AAAAAAABGbA/9QpIYQIq6nMofdo34UGmM6n7hWtCngvYACLcB/s1600/Phylloscopus%2Bsp1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="456" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7pAFJCTPAOQ/WB200SWJ1nI/AAAAAAABGbA/9QpIYQIq6nMofdo34UGmM6n7hWtCngvYACLcB/s640/Phylloscopus%2Bsp1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bird J, Singapore Botanic Garden</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X3OOlgpfsAc/WB202NjlaDI/AAAAAAABGbE/KHzP2JkUvDIJ-8lp3yDXrMLlV5fRED4DwCLcB/s1600/Phylloscopus%2Bsp%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X3OOlgpfsAc/WB202NjlaDI/AAAAAAABGbE/KHzP2JkUvDIJ-8lp3yDXrMLlV5fRED4DwCLcB/s640/Phylloscopus%2Bsp%2B2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bird J, Singapore Botanic Garden</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_eCGWir36-U/WB20pAelttI/AAAAAAABGaw/HfAMtc23ORs1wHoBLT_oYQtmikHdn2B9QCLcB/s1600/Phylloscopus%2Bsp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="388" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_eCGWir36-U/WB20pAelttI/AAAAAAABGaw/HfAMtc23ORs1wHoBLT_oYQtmikHdn2B9QCLcB/s640/Phylloscopus%2Bsp.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bird K, Sungei Buloh Wetland Park, Singapore</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_kmfLRXNc2o/WB21Vx1v8xI/AAAAAAABGb0/zlnm3AGK3Q0WK3rkOAboKLnlfvVblm6NgCLcB/s1600/phylloscopus%2Bsp1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="436" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_kmfLRXNc2o/WB21Vx1v8xI/AAAAAAABGb0/zlnm3AGK3Q0WK3rkOAboKLnlfvVblm6NgCLcB/s640/phylloscopus%2Bsp1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bird L, Maratua Island, East Kalimantan</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n1SKpbo1XkI/WB21V3WZXAI/AAAAAAABGbw/UDu77e69fdMWMtmfOr7KktwJr56abVkIACLcB/s1600/Phyloscopus%2Bsp2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="408" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n1SKpbo1XkI/WB21V3WZXAI/AAAAAAABGbw/UDu77e69fdMWMtmfOr7KktwJr56abVkIACLcB/s640/Phyloscopus%2Bsp2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bird L, Maratua Island, East Kalimantan</td></tr>
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<br />
*Update: some Old World experts have chimed in a reached a consensus on the IDs of these birds (see the 'answer key' below). For details about their reasoning, see <a href="http://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=334733&highlight=muscicapa">this thread</a> over at Bird Forum. Also see this <a href="https://digdeep1962.wordpress.com/tag/flycatcher/">blog post</a> by Dave Bakewell for more muscicapa musing (you just couldn't get enough could you?)<br /><br />A - Dark-sided Flycatcher<br />B - Dark-sided Flycatcher<br />C - Dark-sided Flycatcher<br />
D - Dark-sided Flycatcher<br />
E - Dark-sided Flycatcher<br />
F - Asian Brown Flycatcher<br />
G - Dark-sided Flycatcher<br />
H - Asian Brown Flycatcher<br />
I - Asian Brown Flycatcher<br />
J - Eastern Crowned Warbler<br />
K - Eastern Crowned Warbler<br />
L - 'Arctic' Warbler</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09036340024818230677noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2751020401972674507.post-68185740913297536152016-10-09T12:24:00.002-04:002016-10-09T12:25:33.474-04:00The Kalimantan Krush<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Natalia just started a research project in Kalimantan, the
Indonesian part of the island of Borneo. If you’ve heard of this part of the
world before, it has probably be in reference to Orangutans or maybe how their
forest homes are being rapidly leveled and burned to make way for oil palm
plantations and how carbon emissions from such burning is greatly exacerbating
global warming.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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The view from the ground can indeed be grim at times. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g8GA8umTmQs/V_pumSArLNI/AAAAAAAAiK4/aHca5ZQS7OgoFfgTsjpE1bTMmw3gHEiMQCLcB/s1600/devastation.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g8GA8umTmQs/V_pumSArLNI/AAAAAAAAiK4/aHca5ZQS7OgoFfgTsjpE1bTMmw3gHEiMQCLcB/s640/devastation.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Forest cleared to make way for oil palm in East Kalimantan</td></tr>
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Nearly nobody bothers to bird here and visitors of any kind from 'the West' are exceedingly rare. The immigration officer raised an eyebrow when I told him I was visiting for a month of tourism. Kalimantan is a place largely forgotten by the world except for the multinational logging and oil palm firms and a few intrepid orangutan researchers. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wi64kVHklDk/V_pQV_4bd-I/AAAAAAAAh3k/5tXX2j0gMaYjkkXIi_ujYWJecEy7dbPNgCLcB/s1600/Borneo%2Bmap.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="483" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wi64kVHklDk/V_pQV_4bd-I/AAAAAAAAh3k/5tXX2j0gMaYjkkXIi_ujYWJecEy7dbPNgCLcB/s640/Borneo%2Bmap.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our East Kalimantan route, starting in Samarinda (A) and ending in Tanjung Redeb (F), visiting Kutai National Park (B), Wehea Forest (C), Merabu Forest (D), and Sungai Lesan (E)</td></tr>
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The front lines of palm oil expansion and tropical forest
destruction criss-cross East Kalimantan.
Even the ‘protected areas’ are suffering. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p><b>Site #1: Kutai National Park</b></o:p></div>
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We visited Kutai National Park, one of those protected areas
in name only, that seem to be so common in the developing world. There has been
much illegal logging here, as well as state-sanctioned exploration for
petroleum resources (as we all know, humanity’s thirst for oil trumps all
else). There was a slingshot hanging in the kitchen. Apparently the park guard staff use the trail
system as their personal hunting grounds for forest meat. The main reason
anybody would visit this place is the orangutans, which are protected in both a
legal and practical sense here.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U-55gArSjCg/V_oLyRwH6cI/AAAAAAAAhNI/JWVuCC91FagDGpiWGXcsIlxKom0qSSOIwCLcB/s1600/baby%2Borangutan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="518" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U-55gArSjCg/V_oLyRwH6cI/AAAAAAAAhNI/JWVuCC91FagDGpiWGXcsIlxKom0qSSOIwCLcB/s640/baby%2Borangutan.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">Baby Orangutan up in the canopy - Kutai National Park</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eg2d-kNXkTw/V_oLVdLSLQI/AAAAAAAAhMo/VrkoDEijeWAskMS0ygHArt2WYtEETtppQCLcB/s1600/Macaque.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eg2d-kNXkTw/V_oLVdLSLQI/AAAAAAAAhMo/VrkoDEijeWAskMS0ygHArt2WYtEETtppQCLcB/s640/Macaque.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">these things are everywhere - Macaque at Kutai National Park</td></tr>
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While the forest here looked structurally intact, birds were
scarce and wary, suggesting a history of indiscriminate persecution. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZYgnkyQuSVg/V_pUNy-e_BI/AAAAAAAAh50/_NwnnzDl_kEtoHfTTxyvRzXKaspd9OT3QCLcB/s1600/Kutai%2Bforest.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZYgnkyQuSVg/V_pUNy-e_BI/AAAAAAAAh50/_NwnnzDl_kEtoHfTTxyvRzXKaspd9OT3QCLcB/s640/Kutai%2Bforest.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In Kutai National Park with park guide Ikbal</td></tr>
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Paradoxically, we found the best time to search for birds here was after dark, and not just for owls. <o:p></o:p> We found Little Spiderhunter, Diard’s Trogon, Hooded Pitta and three different Rufous-backed Kingfishers (we saw zero of these during daytime). </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YQMH6MA5vR0/V_oK7y4kBgI/AAAAAAAAhMY/07mK9LAKwZYVnjT6YCyISBpTMfuVD3POgCLcB/s1600/Diard%2527s%2BTrogon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YQMH6MA5vR0/V_oK7y4kBgI/AAAAAAAAhMY/07mK9LAKwZYVnjT6YCyISBpTMfuVD3POgCLcB/s640/Diard%2527s%2BTrogon.jpg" width="552" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Diard's Trogon female</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S26_esqBqU8/V_oK5V32v-I/AAAAAAAAhMQ/QShtZg3zPLoGCEyygnexPA-EQ3Ysuq39wCLcB/s1600/Hooded%2BPitta.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="582" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S26_esqBqU8/V_oK5V32v-I/AAAAAAAAhMQ/QShtZg3zPLoGCEyygnexPA-EQ3Ysuq39wCLcB/s640/Hooded%2BPitta.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hooded Pitta</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zs7GGf_SWzE/V_oLNsaJa_I/AAAAAAAAhMk/IH1ZTRc2JAcF9lSbYx9DHLCvT1nKPEHawCLcB/s1600/Little%2BSpiderhunter2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="488" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zs7GGf_SWzE/V_oLNsaJa_I/AAAAAAAAhMk/IH1ZTRc2JAcF9lSbYx9DHLCvT1nKPEHawCLcB/s640/Little%2BSpiderhunter2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What the heck? Headless Fluffbird?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--eqGdFC40es/V_oLJBQVnvI/AAAAAAAAhMg/Iwe6vUuogfYJWYzkGM6uI09f8nGKlJTrwCLcB/s1600/Little%2BSpiderhunter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="404" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--eqGdFC40es/V_oLJBQVnvI/AAAAAAAAhMg/Iwe6vUuogfYJWYzkGM6uI09f8nGKlJTrwCLcB/s640/Little%2BSpiderhunter.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oh, OK. Little Spiderhunter</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZDxNUQM-QAw/V_oLtw9vNYI/AAAAAAAAhNA/3QzJmAQ0Z9Q16FJiDLor2BjtagQLG7IowCLcB/s1600/Rufous-backed%2BKingfisher.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="510" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZDxNUQM-QAw/V_oLtw9vNYI/AAAAAAAAhNA/3QzJmAQ0Z9Q16FJiDLor2BjtagQLG7IowCLcB/s640/Rufous-backed%2BKingfisher.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rufous-backed Kingfisher</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ap-ZqXSjkfU/V_oLvxJDoXI/AAAAAAAAhNE/HefojTksz1Ec3p0PFpGFss_0Wt5WzO3LACLcB/s1600/Rufous-rumped%2BKingfisher2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="572" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ap-ZqXSjkfU/V_oLvxJDoXI/AAAAAAAAhNE/HefojTksz1Ec3p0PFpGFss_0Wt5WzO3LACLcB/s640/Rufous-rumped%2BKingfisher2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Worst-named bird ever?</td></tr>
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A visiting Dutch couple were
led to a sleeping Giant Pitta, but apparently scared it from its roost as we couldn’t
relocate it the following night. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y_m5oxn_H1k/V_oLihuFwNI/AAAAAAAAhM0/BligGhRzra4XbsD3xwPS3tOmdjymsJIJgCLcB/s1600/Rufous%2BPiculet1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="610" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y_m5oxn_H1k/V_oLihuFwNI/AAAAAAAAhM0/BligGhRzra4XbsD3xwPS3tOmdjymsJIJgCLcB/s640/Rufous%2BPiculet1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rufous Piculet. Wait, I thought zygodactyl meant two toes forward and two toes backward. I only see one toe on a side here.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ui5xLTdsJh4/V_oLjuquzBI/AAAAAAAAhM8/ejblPEVjS2g-gpTwPw3GthAztsh5xH28QCLcB/s1600/Rufous%2BPiculet2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ui5xLTdsJh4/V_oLjuquzBI/AAAAAAAAhM8/ejblPEVjS2g-gpTwPw3GthAztsh5xH28QCLcB/s640/Rufous%2BPiculet2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wait, is this a two-toed bird?! Weird.</td></tr>
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Daytime bird highlights were Velvet-fronted
Nuthatch…alledgedly not a rare bird, but the only one we saw during our time in
Kalimantan and one I really wanted to see one (a nuthatch in the tropics!). Another was Bornean Banded
Kingfisher, a rare, recently split endemic forest kingfisher.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y6rYGxbVfEY/V_oK7DAXJ9I/AAAAAAAAhMU/eDzjEQqh4dUbCAzRShF95GD92wpGvBllwCLcB/s1600/Bornean%2BBanded%2BKingfisher.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="402" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y6rYGxbVfEY/V_oK7DAXJ9I/AAAAAAAAhMU/eDzjEQqh4dUbCAzRShF95GD92wpGvBllwCLcB/s640/Bornean%2BBanded%2BKingfisher.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bornean Banded Kingfisher, an endemic if you follow the split</td></tr>
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The mystery bird of Kutai for us (apart from all the unidentified songs we heard) was this roosting juvenile Blue Flycatcher. Which of the dozen different blue flycatchers is it?</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kzZ3fnWLkLk/V_oLej3NKWI/AAAAAAAAhMs/fFuaqtPvKiM9c7GdqXj073WOc0Bzr_juACLcB/s1600/Mystery%2BBlue%2BFlycatcher.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="406" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kzZ3fnWLkLk/V_oLej3NKWI/AAAAAAAAhMs/fFuaqtPvKiM9c7GdqXj073WOc0Bzr_juACLcB/s640/Mystery%2BBlue%2BFlycatcher.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unidentified flycatcher juvenile</td></tr>
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<b>Site #2: Wehea Forest</b></div>
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We next visited Wehea Forest, a community-run protected area
that persist within a logging concession.
Essentially all the remaining forests of Kalimantan have been divided
into ‘concessions’ for international logging companies. Fast on the heels of
logging is clear cutting for oil palm monoculture. Proponents claim that very
little deforestation in Borneo is caused by oil palm expansion, but rather oil
palm plantations are replacing already-degraded marginally productive lands.
While this is technically true in a proximate sense, ultimately the process of
old growth forest cover being replaced by oil palm has been ongoing and
continues… the existence of a logging intermediate phase doesn’t absolve the
palm industry of culpability here. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Travelling the road to Wehea is like a trip back in
time. First there is mature oil palm,
then the trees begin to shrink in stature until you reach the brand new
plantation areas with tiny baby palm fronds spouting out of the scorched earth.
Bordering the newly cleared plots are the wooden walls of skinny tree trunks of
the degraded forest from which the new plantations are being carved. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qKRgqOq9FYY/V_oV7HH6ftI/AAAAAAAAhTA/mukT2cVnfTY9gRKrpWFrz4aLKHyXf7xrACLcB/s1600/Wallace%2527s%2BHawk-Eagle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="470" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qKRgqOq9FYY/V_oV7HH6ftI/AAAAAAAAhTA/mukT2cVnfTY9gRKrpWFrz4aLKHyXf7xrACLcB/s640/Wallace%2527s%2BHawk-Eagle.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The recently deforested areas do seem pretty good for raptor watching, if that's a silver lining. This is a Wallace's Hawk-Eagle we found on the road to Wehea Forest</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q_ZS1hRKU7o/V_oV3R1iwhI/AAAAAAAAhS4/YyOcs-z2QGoUzAHZmGOn7fal5wcOetEsACLcB/s1600/Crested%2BGoshawk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="418" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q_ZS1hRKU7o/V_oV3R1iwhI/AAAAAAAAhS4/YyOcs-z2QGoUzAHZmGOn7fal5wcOetEsACLcB/s640/Crested%2BGoshawk.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crested Goshawk on the road to Wehea Forest</td></tr>
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From here
the forest condition improves until the end of the road, which used to be the
site of a logging camp. But the Weheans expelled the loggers and with help from The Nature Conservancy built
a lodge for visiting researchers and intrepid tourists. The accommodations are
basic and yet by East Kalimantan standards, downright fancy. The Lonely Planet
misleadingly uses the word ‘swanky,’ which has led to serial disappointment
from visitors expecting more than a mattress on the floor of a mattress-sized
room. The unsuspecting folks on holiday would get taken here straight after a pampered stay at some upscale Bali resort.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3i12CpbeJ1o/V_pWcWC2v8I/AAAAAAAAh7M/jGlkGwL6ePkg4Px0CYeZ0KnCswM-FyTvgCLcB/s1600/Wehea%2Bforest.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3i12CpbeJ1o/V_pWcWC2v8I/AAAAAAAAh7M/jGlkGwL6ePkg4Px0CYeZ0KnCswM-FyTvgCLcB/s640/Wehea%2Bforest.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Natalia in the Wehea Forest with Boi, Lah and Abdullah</td></tr>
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The place’s best feature is without a doubt, the clear
gravel-bottom stream that serves as shower, laundromat and swimming pool. It also hosts Paradise Flycatchers, Malaysian
Blue Flycatchers, and Blue-banded Kingfishers. We made the trek out to the
towers (fire towers built by the logging company before it left), but this
ended up being a lot of uncomfortable slogging through an overgrown abandoned
road bed. It was mostly hot and relatively bird-less. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The best birding at Wehea is along the entrance road where we saw several hornbills and other birds. Unfortunately the very best birds fled after giving us just fleeting glimpses. A pair of the critically endangered Helmeted Hornbills bolted from an emergent perch and a couple of the oddball endemic Bornean Bristleheads flew across the road in front of us without stopping. Better views desired for both of these.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NRXnATqCUVA/V_oV3Xo3PsI/AAAAAAAAhS0/qwRsWRZGIyMrhXzlS3BG1ANnP1YweNY5ACLcB/s1600/Black-and-yellow%2BBroadbill.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="336" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NRXnATqCUVA/V_oV3Xo3PsI/AAAAAAAAhS0/qwRsWRZGIyMrhXzlS3BG1ANnP1YweNY5ACLcB/s640/Black-and-yellow%2BBroadbill.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black-and-yellow Broadbill</td></tr>
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We got our first broadbills here and in three different
flavors: Black-and-yellow, Black-and-red, and Dusky. The latter is quite rare
and a family group gave us a show of bathing in the hollow of a broken of tree
branch showering droplets on us below.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dusky Broadbill in the canopy shaking off the bathwater</td></tr>
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From here we parted ways with our goofy, chain-smoking
guide, Abdullah, and travelled to the provincial capital of Berau, Tanjung
Redeb. This was our jumping off point for a three-day visit to... </div>
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<b>Site #3: Merabu Village</b></div>
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...Merabu Village, another
community-based conservation project on another beautiful clear river. The
village has a beautiful piece of forest, which is split between productive and
protection sections. To us it wasn’t all that clear where the distinction
between protection and production lay and I’m not sure all the villagers fully understand or honor
that distinction. We were shown an abandoned nesting site where somebody had
captured a fledgling Rhinoceros Hornbill and on our way out to see the forest,
encountered a songbird hunter. He proudly showed us how his setup functioned. A
tethered female is raised 5 m up on a telescopic pole next to a sticky-coated
perch. Playback is blasted through a speaker and any territorial Greater Green
Leafbirds within earshot are sure to fall prey and be sold into the captive
cage bird market. Straw-headed Bulbuls, White-crowned Shamas and White-winged
Magpie-Robins have already been extirpated from the vicinity of all Kalimantan human
settlements by this industry. Leafbirds are the next targets while they last.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Other than the birds that are specifically persecuted, the forest does appear to be 'protected.'</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YjnIR1Etbow/V_oez4QG5II/AAAAAAAAhWM/2f2SWbPv3f8B0JHVDFhgIvS6RJ5idT4PACLcB/s1600/Black-bellied%2BMalkoha.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YjnIR1Etbow/V_oez4QG5II/AAAAAAAAhWM/2f2SWbPv3f8B0JHVDFhgIvS6RJ5idT4PACLcB/s640/Black-bellied%2BMalkoha.jpg" width="636" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black-bellied Malkoha (a kind of cuckoo) at Merabu Village Forest</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wQjWwUFzQ0o/V_oe55vNR6I/AAAAAAAAhWQ/zCdpTLcYUYk4DIhY0WE-rXLgu4hNg5S8gCLcB/s1600/Moustached%2BHawk-Cuckoo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="472" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wQjWwUFzQ0o/V_oe55vNR6I/AAAAAAAAhWQ/zCdpTLcYUYk4DIhY0WE-rXLgu4hNg5S8gCLcB/s640/Moustached%2BHawk-Cuckoo.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moustached Hawk-Cuckoo, a cuckoo and not a hawk</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GftEgxn-N3M/V_oe7DXy7RI/AAAAAAAAhWY/0zauT2qezc0LVPESv3N1Mp4LaW8EIX-QQCLcB/s1600/Orange-backed%2BWoodpecker.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="526" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GftEgxn-N3M/V_oe7DXy7RI/AAAAAAAAhWY/0zauT2qezc0LVPESv3N1Mp4LaW8EIX-QQCLcB/s640/Orange-backed%2BWoodpecker.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Orange-backed Woodpecker</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Some of the best birding was done by boat along the stream.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c_fLWu2zaEE/V_oe_w_MgLI/AAAAAAAAhWc/QpjImyx4px8wruFRdyId56b0jo84RqoBQCLcB/s1600/Black%2BHornbill.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="482" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c_fLWu2zaEE/V_oe_w_MgLI/AAAAAAAAhWc/QpjImyx4px8wruFRdyId56b0jo84RqoBQCLcB/s640/Black%2BHornbill.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black Hornbill, by far the most commonly observed hornbill for us. Hornbills proved to be very shy. Is that because they are used to getting shot at? They were a lot harder to get good looks at (not to mention photos) than their new world counterparts, the toucans, are in Central and South America.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BdfvQjJ4msk/V_ofDBfVUII/AAAAAAAAhWg/BRQ_C_T1ITU92MlCmzbBfDjHCPziKHv-ACLcB/s1600/Plain-throated%2BSunbird.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="458" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BdfvQjJ4msk/V_ofDBfVUII/AAAAAAAAhWg/BRQ_C_T1ITU92MlCmzbBfDjHCPziKHv-ACLcB/s640/Plain-throated%2BSunbird.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brown-throated (or Plain-throated) Sunbird, the functional equivalent of a hummingbird, but in passerine form. Sadly diversity of sunbirds in South East Asia doesn't come anywhere near the diversity of hummingbirds in the Americas. Nobody feeds them nectar at feeders either.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-b63gu-uo7qk/V_ofM0PH3yI/AAAAAAAAhWk/ER3gjioBSQMB5BTlyPZegjhBaPmU19RNQCLcB/s1600/Proboscis%2BMonkey.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="466" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-b63gu-uo7qk/V_ofM0PH3yI/AAAAAAAAhWk/ER3gjioBSQMB5BTlyPZegjhBaPmU19RNQCLcB/s640/Proboscis%2BMonkey.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The proboscis monkey, a highly sought-after mammalian oddity. We saw a group of half a dozen along the river near Merabu Village all in this same 'chair' pose.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Up to this point we were flummoxed as to how we had not
managed to see a single barbet. In Merabu forest we were finally able to come
across some fruiting fig trees, which produced four species in short order.<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-25Jk9QHbsYo/V_ofPeKXaVI/AAAAAAAAhWs/5K3OKH7PcY4lluopPpIC21i-4QujBVDQACLcB/s1600/Red-crowned%2BBarbet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="510" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-25Jk9QHbsYo/V_ofPeKXaVI/AAAAAAAAhWs/5K3OKH7PcY4lluopPpIC21i-4QujBVDQACLcB/s640/Red-crowned%2BBarbet.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red-crowned Barbet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BvvnlS4Cpa8/V_ofP7PuoJI/AAAAAAAAhWw/qAYf1M6u1Vg2x234UwdYxp0OTs3g8hJ4QCLcB/s1600/Yellow-crowned%2BBarbet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="436" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BvvnlS4Cpa8/V_ofP7PuoJI/AAAAAAAAhWw/qAYf1M6u1Vg2x234UwdYxp0OTs3g8hJ4QCLcB/s640/Yellow-crowned%2BBarbet.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yellow-crowned Barbet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Outside of Merabu we took a spin through the nearby oil palm monoculture hellscape. </div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-deOe-DfuPS8/V_piBbZIORI/AAAAAAAAiDQ/HT_1OJ70D-sk8rI9ZtDe4tecuIitiz38wCLcB/s1600/Oil%2BPalm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="406" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-deOe-DfuPS8/V_piBbZIORI/AAAAAAAAiDQ/HT_1OJ70D-sk8rI9ZtDe4tecuIitiz38wCLcB/s640/Oil%2BPalm.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Merapun's oil palm, a cash cow</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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This could have been the fate of Merabu's forest. The nearby village of Merapun opted to sell out to the oil palm firms and now 40% of the village is employed in the industry. This has undoubted yielded a lot of economic growth for the village, but how long will it last? </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JIBtcJ-piY0/V_pWZaN7n_I/AAAAAAAAh7w/2Jjrzt8X1c8UzbOc7Oyrz2342TfJ1FqewCEw/s1600/Merabu%2Bvillage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="382" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JIBtcJ-piY0/V_pWZaN7n_I/AAAAAAAAh7w/2Jjrzt8X1c8UzbOc7Oyrz2342TfJ1FqewCEw/s640/Merabu%2Bvillage.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">center of Merabu Village</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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It will be interesting to track the fates of these two parallel villages that have taken different paths. The community forest model may have its short-comings (i.e. hunting), but it's definitely better for biodiversity to have a de-faunated forest, than no forest at all.</div>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OG_ZvkQFF7I/V_oeuOumQeI/AAAAAAAAhWI/o0saGKZmvOIJvOydYHL6g5-VYF3sY57qQCLcB/s1600/Black-shouldered%2BKite.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="502" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OG_ZvkQFF7I/V_oeuOumQeI/AAAAAAAAhWI/o0saGKZmvOIJvOydYHL6g5-VYF3sY57qQCLcB/s640/Black-shouldered%2BKite.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">this Black-shouldered Kite appeared to be enjoying the oil palm landscape</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Site #4: Sungai Lesan</b></div>
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<br /></div>
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The last protected area we visited, Sungai Lesan, is a bit of an enigma. It was formerly logging concession, but some 20 years ago it
became designated as protected forest for reasons that remain unclear to me. Anyway it’s pretty nice
chunk of pristine lowland forest, possibly the best anywhere in East
Kalimantan. There are two ways to access: a 10 minute drive from the roadside
village of Sido Bangen to a small station operated by the provincial
government’s forest management unit; and a two-hour boat ride along beautiful
rivers to an abandoned research station. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oiBQh_7rwWk/V_ojVjyQHqI/AAAAAAAAhYU/HcmUtOOi6nwUggUiMWBiFy3O08k9vbWMQCLcB/s1600/Fish%2BEagle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="568" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oiBQh_7rwWk/V_ojVjyQHqI/AAAAAAAAhYU/HcmUtOOi6nwUggUiMWBiFy3O08k9vbWMQCLcB/s640/Fish%2BEagle.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lesser Fish Eagle seen along the river to the Sungai Lesan research station </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Physically the station is in fine
shape…it’s only about 10 years old and solidly built with moneys from The Nature Conservancy. But
apparently it was used once or twice before being let go. I guess they built it
and nobody came? <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uJmX9wItr7M/V_pWtcYrPuI/AAAAAAAAh7c/nxgdIs8dxOEK1GhJcT8YgWAJjQXAv1oeQCEw/s1600/abandoned%2Bresearch%2Bstation.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="454" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uJmX9wItr7M/V_pWtcYrPuI/AAAAAAAAh7c/nxgdIs8dxOEK1GhJcT8YgWAJjQXAv1oeQCEw/s640/abandoned%2Bresearch%2Bstation.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Abandoned Sungai Lesan field station</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3wYPx_U_T-A/V_pWfEoGXkI/AAAAAAAAh7w/BdphZZfbnfUUbqRAcixtq9GaoFptiRZIACEw/s1600/Bat%2Bsp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3wYPx_U_T-A/V_pWfEoGXkI/AAAAAAAAh7w/BdphZZfbnfUUbqRAcixtq9GaoFptiRZIACEw/s320/Bat%2Bsp.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">...well it's not completely abandoned. The bats are making good use of TNC's investment.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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We walked into the forest from the station on a very
well-built trail, encountering two additional field stations. These were also built only to go unused. Currently all these lost structures have been
commandeered by bats. The forest was full of huge old-looking trees and we came
across a nice mixed flock of woodpeckers and malkohas. The woodpeckers being
beautiful and scarce.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p>This more remote area seemed to be in better shaped than the more easily accessed entrance near town. We were told that during gemstone season the stream that separates the forest from slash-and-burn parcels fills up with eager prospectors panning for precious pebbles.</o:p></div>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KJwlmy8PPEw/V_ojZ3oqpVI/AAAAAAAAhYc/Zl3Qn4WGFkENwz9tfCVwTmqmZWKIlitKgCLcB/s1600/Garnet%2BPitta.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="406" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KJwlmy8PPEw/V_ojZ3oqpVI/AAAAAAAAhYc/Zl3Qn4WGFkENwz9tfCVwTmqmZWKIlitKgCLcB/s640/Garnet%2BPitta.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">speaking of stones, this is a terrible photo of a Garnet Pitta. It flew up to sing from this branch some 5 m off the ground. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0Dz-oIgU7Tw/V_ojhMTDBtI/AAAAAAAAhYk/5YPYfz6sBxgPWWyEmzB6v75YHvosvYb6QCLcB/s1600/Whiskered%2BTreeswift.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="458" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0Dz-oIgU7Tw/V_ojhMTDBtI/AAAAAAAAhYk/5YPYfz6sBxgPWWyEmzB6v75YHvosvYb6QCLcB/s640/Whiskered%2BTreeswift.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Whiskered Treeswift perched at the edge of the Sungai Lesan Forest, Treeswifts unlike true swifts can perch on branches and yet they share the same order, Apodiformes</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p>This ends our whirlwind tour of East Kalimantan's most important remaining lowland forest. </o:p>The birds here are wonderful, at least the ones
that aren’t yet trapped in cages. And yet nobody birds this province. Why? Well there is no tourist infrastructure to
speak of. No birding guides and just a handful of general tourism guides. Few people
speak English and the services non-existent, the accommodations as basic as one
can get (i.e. mattress on the floor, that’s it; also see ‘how to take a shit in
Indonesia’). Plus the Malaysian state of Sabah, just to the north, has worlds
better infrastructure, guides, etc. and essentially the same avifauna. As a
result, Natalia and I are now top eBirders for East Kalimantan (which eBird
considers to be a county) and are both top 3 in Kalimantan.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aYEFuUwj5ts/V_pdRnDWtjI/AAAAAAAAiAo/TjC8JhIfXUYtWZa3ay3FMlFSj3_QnfQ4ACLcB/s1600/kalimantan%2Btimur.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="199" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aYEFuUwj5ts/V_pdRnDWtjI/AAAAAAAAiAo/TjC8JhIfXUYtWZa3ay3FMlFSj3_QnfQ4ACLcB/s320/kalimantan%2Btimur.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Natalia hasn't yet accepted all the shared checklists</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-65EiEcz1hUs/V_ojMwmpZKI/AAAAAAAAhYM/PubuU6xpgXgz9HR3VEgh9DzsBGcpPbE_wCLcB/s1600/Crested%2BSerpent-Eagle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="418" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-65EiEcz1hUs/V_ojMwmpZKI/AAAAAAAAhYM/PubuU6xpgXgz9HR3VEgh9DzsBGcpPbE_wCLcB/s640/Crested%2BSerpent-Eagle.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Crested Serpent-Eagle a roadside bird near Sungai Lesan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
I couldn’t recommend that anyone make a birding trip to Kalimantan, but as
somebody who enjoys adventure and getting off the beaten tourist path, it’s
great to see the intact remnants of habitat here before they are further
degraded and destroyed. And despite all the hardships of this place: instant ramen noodles three meals a day; the oppressive heat and humidty; the voracious mosquitoes and leeches; the squat toilets; the lack of connectivity; the inability to communicate with anybody; the constant staring from locals glimpsing their first white person; the blaring calls to prayer at 5 am; I'm actually looking forward to coming to visit again. <o:p></o:p></div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09036340024818230677noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2751020401972674507.post-89741393288610169472016-09-16T01:13:00.001-04:002016-09-16T01:15:07.768-04:00Das Bird<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
You may have noticed that it has been almost 6 months since
my last post. This isn’t because I
haven’t been birding. No way! If anything, it's because I've been birding too much. In fact I’m in the middle of the biggest
birding year of my life (1200+ species, more on that later).<br />
<br />
No, what’s been happening is that... how do I say this... writing
this blog is a routine. It's something I do regularly and habitually and that I make time
for in a normal life schedule.<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The problem, though not really a problem at all, is that life
has been anything but ‘normal’ or ‘routine.’ Here are some quick highlights of
the past 6 months:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
-I graduated and earned a PhD<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
-I got engaged (to Natalia, my birding partner and best
friend)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
-I bought a house<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
-I sold my car<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
-I moved to Switzerland<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
On top of all that, I’ve been travelling, often in places
without much infrastructure, for about 2 of those 6 months. In fact, as I type this I’m sitting in the
Zurich airport about to depart to Singapore for a ~1 month trip to Indonesia—my
first time visiting Asia.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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But you came here for birds, right? To keep this on topic here’s a bird:</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-m93o09sQHys/V9t3SN5E9jI/AAAAAAAAfc4/G148-GNHvfIDewnst1KjviYWVkheYMWjQCLcB/s1600/Red%2BCrossbill.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="521" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-m93o09sQHys/V9t3SN5E9jI/AAAAAAAAfc4/G148-GNHvfIDewnst1KjviYWVkheYMWjQCLcB/s640/Red%2BCrossbill.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red Crossbill crush, Lucerne, Switzerland</td></tr>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
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It’s been a bit of a hectic transition with moving flats,
assembling furniture and trying to figure out how transportation and waste
management work in this organized little country called Switzerland. I did
manage to get out on a couple outings in the 10 days I’ve been here.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Natalia’s work group had a paid hike to Entlebuch a UNESCO world-heritage area and RAMSAR site (wetland
of international importance) in the forearc of the Swiss Alps. It features a huge
karst formation, bogs and beautiful views of the Swiss countryside. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-46-3nyo_Yks/V9t3RJWyqOI/AAAAAAAAfc0/PCQjzxsE8N0YWOE_OX9KuDDODGXIufkmACLcB/s1600/Karst.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-46-3nyo_Yks/V9t3RJWyqOI/AAAAAAAAfc0/PCQjzxsE8N0YWOE_OX9KuDDODGXIufkmACLcB/s640/Karst.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Karst slope at Entlebuch - we were hoping to find Rock Ptarmingans here, but they all hid from us</td></tr>
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Though we
didn’t realize it, we had signed up for a 16 km trek up and down steep
grades. The Swiss are serious about
their hiking. It’s the default hobby
here and with lots of mandatory paid vacation time, the modal Swiss person is a
super-fit alpine enthusiast. This meant that the pace was a bit too fast for
birding. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JNuwmQShUDE/V9t3CO2EPMI/AAAAAAAAfck/lb0PCdr729ECM9mdaD05GzH__1xAzXb1wCLcB/s1600/Alpine%2BChough%2Bview.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JNuwmQShUDE/V9t3CO2EPMI/AAAAAAAAfck/lb0PCdr729ECM9mdaD05GzH__1xAzXb1wCLcB/s640/Alpine%2BChough%2Bview.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nice view from our picnic spot photo-bombed by a wing-suit diver</td></tr>
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Nevertheless we managed to spot a few birds. My favorite was the Alpine Chough.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZKQyzaIuoF4/V9t3CAfLyQI/AAAAAAAAfco/FONTEtdskk0yNGKUkvvmQxz-XevP3rFNgCLcB/s1600/Alpine%2BChough.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZKQyzaIuoF4/V9t3CAfLyQI/AAAAAAAAfco/FONTEtdskk0yNGKUkvvmQxz-XevP3rFNgCLcB/s640/Alpine%2BChough.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alpine Chough, apparently this is a borderline trashy bird, but it was new for me, so I wasn't complaining</td></tr>
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A flock of 50 or so of these nice-looking corvids came
cruising along the ridgeline while we ate a picnic lunch. A few stopped close
to check us out, probably because they’ve learned that people can be an easy
source of food.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Other than that and the crossbill (above) birds were pretty few
and far between. I’ve been told that 16
birds is not a bad number for birding in non-aquatic areas of Europe. This will
take some getting used to.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Yesterday I went out with Florian (the same guy who led our
Entlebuch hike) out to Neracherried, a Birdlife Switzerland reserve on a
remnant wetland near Zurich. There’s not
much to the place: a little visitor’s center and modest-sized patch of reeds
with some open water, but it attracts the birds well enough. What it seems to attract best though is photographers.
We showed up during prime sun on a Wednesday evening and could barely
wedge ourselves in among the bazooka-sized lenses.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3NrLNla9tNY/V9t28qWXy8I/AAAAAAAAfcc/Og0-9tPPZHI3vw79sknqi1blbpdKRRjyQCLcB/s1600/Bird%2Bblind%2Bcrowd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="522" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3NrLNla9tNY/V9t28qWXy8I/AAAAAAAAfcc/Og0-9tPPZHI3vw79sknqi1blbpdKRRjyQCLcB/s640/Bird%2Bblind%2Bcrowd.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A normal Wednesday afternoon at the Neeracherried photo blinds</td></tr>
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I picked up 6 lifers in fairly short order: Curlew
Sandpiper, Spotted Redshank, Common Greenshank, Common Ringed Plover, Stock
Dove and Marsh Harrier.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NyeQ4FJHfSc/V9t3HQEwv3I/AAAAAAAAfcs/Zwouur83Fx4OqtWvJidc0ZwenBkU7ssUwCLcB/s1600/Marsh%2BHarrier.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NyeQ4FJHfSc/V9t3HQEwv3I/AAAAAAAAfcs/Zwouur83Fx4OqtWvJidc0ZwenBkU7ssUwCLcB/s640/Marsh%2BHarrier.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marsh Harrier, Zurich, Switzerland. K<span style="background-color: white; color: #6a6a6a; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small; font-weight: bold; line-height: 18.2px; text-align: left;">ühl!</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KnToOxJhL3E/V9t3IWAC52I/AAAAAAAAfcw/LTFdwOXkaIsFlrnixmyyniVu2g4YfyGTwCLcB/s1600/Greenshanks%2BRedshank.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="272" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KnToOxJhL3E/V9t3IWAC52I/AAAAAAAAfcw/LTFdwOXkaIsFlrnixmyyniVu2g4YfyGTwCLcB/s640/Greenshanks%2BRedshank.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The birds were kinda far off, so it was mostly scope work. Enjoy these shanks, three green and one spotted red</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aStN47Uw8NA/V9t3CN0x3PI/AAAAAAAAfcg/Z3EtNVrNPpM1u5mKAxgF-np8coVjzzuwwCLcB/s1600/Common%2BRinged%2BPlover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="361" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aStN47Uw8NA/V9t3CN0x3PI/AAAAAAAAfcg/Z3EtNVrNPpM1u5mKAxgF-np8coVjzzuwwCLcB/s640/Common%2BRinged%2BPlover.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Common Ringed Plover. Now I'm prepared to find one in North Carolina </td></tr>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
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It was great to see some of these European shorebirds.
They’re the kinds of birds I always had half an eye out for showing up
somewhere in North Carolina. Now that
I’ve seen them in the field, hopefully I’ll have an easier time spotting and
identifying one out of range. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The rarest bird of the day ended up being an Osprey, of all
things. They’re an uncommon migrant in Switzerland and this was only Florian’s
fourth he had ever seen. All the
shutterflies went a bit giddy over this one, even the ones who had no idea what
they were shooting picked up on the excitement and rushed outside to get shots
as it passed over the blind.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Next post should be about birds in East Kalimantan, or
depending on how the flights goes, perhaps an account of some of the cools stuff
I’ve been meaning to share from the hiatus.
So we could end up in the Grand Canyon, or somewhere in South America.
Who knows!</div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09036340024818230677noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2751020401972674507.post-42001025125075725522016-04-12T23:23:00.001-04:002016-04-13T13:51:11.417-04:00Blogging Belizean Birds<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Natalia and I defended our dissertations last month (!); I'm sure you can guess what we did to celebrate.<br />
<br />
We set this trip in motion last fall, whimsically looking around for the cheapest flights to promising birding destinations. The clear winner was Belize City; $350 r/t from Durham was just too good to pass up.<br />
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As it turns out Belize is no slouch for birding--even for the relatively seasoned neotropical birder. We hadn't birded all that much in Central America, so the eBird targets function gave us each a nice hit list of 80+.<br />
<br />
We focused our birding effort in the northwest corner of the country in the Orange Walk District.<br />
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From the airport we went straight to the community of Crooked Tree, which hosts a mixture of dry forest habitats including some pine savanna. Most birders opt for the lagoon boat tour which offers great opportunities to photograph aquatic birds. A year or two ago the prospect of Agami Herons, Jabirus and Whistling-Ducks would have been irresistible for this wetland scientist, but since all our targets were land birds, skipping the boat to prowl the pine savannas for Yucatan endemics was our choice.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QuewEKRFDpE/Vwhr9af6O8I/AAAAAAAAG_Q/U6kYYsjyF0oZQW8Gv2QFx0_dOqpiFsDYw/s1600/Yucatan%2BWoodpecker1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="476" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QuewEKRFDpE/Vwhr9af6O8I/AAAAAAAAG_Q/U6kYYsjyF0oZQW8Gv2QFx0_dOqpiFsDYw/s640/Yucatan%2BWoodpecker1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yucatan Woodpecker - Crooked Tree, Belize</td></tr>
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We found that the endemic Yucatan Woodpecker were pleasantly plentiful and easy to see along the roadside of the Trogon Trail (a road).<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JBcr3BTYuSY/VwhsSRfaibI/AAAAAAAAG_Y/ugzYmKRjVxYwIPdg-1En7t4vXesgyb9Ww/s1600/Yucatan%2BWoodpecker2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="502" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JBcr3BTYuSY/VwhsSRfaibI/AAAAAAAAG_Y/ugzYmKRjVxYwIPdg-1En7t4vXesgyb9Ww/s640/Yucatan%2BWoodpecker2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yucatan Woodpecker - Crooked Tree, Belize</td></tr>
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Confusingly there are also the Golden-fronted Woodpeckers, which are in the same genus and are completely lacking any golden color. The Yucatan Woodpeckers DO have gold around the bill. This was so counter-intuitive that I at first assumed these similar birds were mis-labeled in the plates of <i>Birds of Belize</i>.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bxkcg15RGsk/Vwgru6CepoI/AAAAAAAAG9M/SebBJDFGEGgqudlJnaQxMSmHlhZZTbz8Q/s1600/Golden-fronted%2BWoodpecker.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="444" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bxkcg15RGsk/Vwgru6CepoI/AAAAAAAAG9M/SebBJDFGEGgqudlJnaQxMSmHlhZZTbz8Q/s640/Golden-fronted%2BWoodpecker.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Golden-fronted Woodpecker, identified by the lack of any golden coloration - Crooked Tree, Belize</td></tr>
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<br />
<br />
The Yucatan isn't a huge region for endemics by South American or Greater Antilles standards, with a dozen or so specialties, depending upon how generous one is with defining the region. Several of these don't even make it into Belize and a couple more are nocturnal caprimuligids, too difficult even for the American Birding Association's <i>Birders Guide to Belize</i> to devote serious attention.<br />
<br />
After knocking out the woodpecker, we lucked into the forgettable Yucatan Flycatcher, one of those <i>myiarchus </i>flycatcher dopplegangers.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_M_37A9Iki0/Vwhqt5vNhBI/AAAAAAAAG-w/wXfeXvpCIG471dHozh43c3avSHoBWSyag/s1600/Yucatan%2BFlycatcher.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="323" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_M_37A9Iki0/Vwhqt5vNhBI/AAAAAAAAG-w/wXfeXvpCIG471dHozh43c3avSHoBWSyag/s640/Yucatan%2BFlycatcher.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The boring Yucatan Flycatcher - Crooked Tree, Belize</td></tr>
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But the biggest prize at Crooked Tree was the charming Yucatan Jay, which was near the top of my target list for this trip.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-py_FKxYwyCg/VwhrFe7GacI/AAAAAAAAG-4/WS_uIuKxnUkctiTnWHFpQmHxn_WhrQPwg/s1600/Yucatan%2BJay%2Badult.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-py_FKxYwyCg/VwhrFe7GacI/AAAAAAAAG-4/WS_uIuKxnUkctiTnWHFpQmHxn_WhrQPwg/s640/Yucatan%2BJay%2Badult.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yucatan Jay (adult) - Crooked Tree, Belize</td></tr>
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This jay is one of those rare birds where the immatures are better-looking than the adults.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TO-dM6r3c-o/VwhrTwx1zkI/AAAAAAAAG_A/DJ7w9nFFesQzaP6o9IbWbkDQCRrZ5mffQ/s1600/Yucatan%2BJay%2Bimmature.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="524" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TO-dM6r3c-o/VwhrTwx1zkI/AAAAAAAAG_A/DJ7w9nFFesQzaP6o9IbWbkDQCRrZ5mffQ/s640/Yucatan%2BJay%2Bimmature.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yucatan Jay (immature) - Crooked Tree, Belize</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
In the large flock we passed we even got to see a couple adolescents
caught in that awkward transitional phase between immature and adult
plumage.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qVhHSUvhX-U/Vwhrr1eGM0I/AAAAAAAAG_I/ua_gQAVP73sC1xosZW057_M2dF8_QiyrQ/s1600/Yucatan%2BJay%2Btrans.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="526" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qVhHSUvhX-U/Vwhrr1eGM0I/AAAAAAAAG_I/ua_gQAVP73sC1xosZW057_M2dF8_QiyrQ/s640/Yucatan%2BJay%2Btrans.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yucatan Jays ('tweeners) - Crooked Tree, Belize</td></tr>
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It turns out Belize is also a gold mine for neotropical migrants, which in mid-March are in a pre-migration hyperphagic mania.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ntzexOeS8NQ/VwhqGfcRNtI/AAAAAAAAG-g/OSKaqPMivb4NUe_dxK28lreZaq145wadQ/s1600/Orchard%2BOriole.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="430" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ntzexOeS8NQ/VwhqGfcRNtI/AAAAAAAAG-g/OSKaqPMivb4NUe_dxK28lreZaq145wadQ/s640/Orchard%2BOriole.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Orchard Oriole (adult male) - Crooked Tree, Belize</td></tr>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Fe08x6vehZQ/Vwgs7FU8huI/AAAAAAAAG9o/ngeAQSF76FoeSUt8Xq7p78s5mkdjow4MA/s1600/Hooded%2BWarbler.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a> <br />
We ended up logging 22 warblers during the trip; spring migration (which for birders in eastern North America might as well be Christmas) came early for us this year.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Fe08x6vehZQ/Vwgs7FU8huI/AAAAAAAAG9o/ngeAQSF76FoeSUt8Xq7p78s5mkdjow4MA/s1600/Hooded%2BWarbler.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="428" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Fe08x6vehZQ/Vwgs7FU8huI/AAAAAAAAG9o/ngeAQSF76FoeSUt8Xq7p78s5mkdjow4MA/s640/Hooded%2BWarbler.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hooded Warbler - Crooked Tree, Belize</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
If you're interested in birding Crooked Tree, I'd highly recommend the Crooked Tree Lodge. It's reasonably-priced, family-owned and the food is excellent. If you go, bring bug repellent and watch out for chiggers.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GfG4Ru9cH28/Vwhqjqro39I/AAAAAAAAG-s/m_5a1mw3PU8N3YdmE6D13oCBrMee0C4Kw/s1600/Vermillion%2BFlycatcher.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="454" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GfG4Ru9cH28/Vwhqjqro39I/AAAAAAAAG-s/m_5a1mw3PU8N3YdmE6D13oCBrMee0C4Kw/s640/Vermillion%2BFlycatcher.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vermilion Flycatcher, Crooked Tree</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AeY7PCnzSDg/VwhqJSVGejI/AAAAAAAAG-k/l-9Zcsl9LdgtU_eVIqzixyjnTu1LsBmdg/s1600/Plain%2BChachalaca.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="450" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AeY7PCnzSDg/VwhqJSVGejI/AAAAAAAAG-k/l-9Zcsl9LdgtU_eVIqzixyjnTu1LsBmdg/s640/Plain%2BChachalaca.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plain Chachalacas - Crooked Tree</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3whgl26Eo58/VwhqUFOzBXI/AAAAAAAAG-o/Ggr9DQMX8eE1Z3jq4DiuYGPpRxFCDHF2A/s1600/Rose-throated%2BBecard.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="452" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3whgl26Eo58/VwhqUFOzBXI/AAAAAAAAG-o/Ggr9DQMX8eE1Z3jq4DiuYGPpRxFCDHF2A/s640/Rose-throated%2BBecard.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rose-throated Becard at power pole nest hole - Crooked Tree</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
~~<br />
<br />
After a night at Crooked Tree we continued north along the Philip Goldson Highway to Orange Walk Town where we ate lunch before veering west.<br />
<br />
We stopped off at some extensive rice fields. I was hoping for a Bronzed Cowbird.<br />
<br />
Jabirus made for a nice consolation. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CL0yz8mlU6I/Vwgs7kxxGdI/AAAAAAAAG-Q/LouaQQZx0jgbOnTZej25S7m0ncVcle5EA/s1600/Jabiru.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="382" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CL0yz8mlU6I/Vwgs7kxxGdI/AAAAAAAAG-Q/LouaQQZx0jgbOnTZej25S7m0ncVcle5EA/s640/Jabiru.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jabiru - Gallon Jug Road rice fields</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Our ultimate destination was the pristine forest of the Rio Bravo Conservation Area in the extreme northwest of Belize, crammed into an armpit between Mexico and Guatemala, but we had planned to spend a night at a B&B in the Mennonite community along the highway.<br />
<br />
It's a bit disorienting to be traveling through a country of English-speaking Mayans and Afro-Belizeans and then stumble upon a Kansas-like landscape of white Dutch-speakers with overalls and cowboy hats. We ended up missing out on getting an inside scoop on the local history because the B&B owners were out of the country. Luckily we were able to get ourselves beds in the vacant researcher dorm at La Milpa Lodge where we were going to be staying the following two nights anyway. The dorm was nearly as nice as the cabana we moved into and, after some aggressive haggling, ended up costing half as much.<br />
<br />
La Milpa was packed with a large group of birders from Massachusetts Audubon, so we had a chance to swap stories over meals. The day before we arrived they had lucked out with a Crested Eagle, but without even hiring a local guide, Natalia and I were able to pick up a lot of the birds they had missed. <br />
<br />
One example is this curious Crested Guan that lumbered around in a tree at close range.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ck7I_NHWRdY/VwgrpEhphwI/AAAAAAAAG9I/RQOqSckdLkklJlvPtv7TVpD1Pdx9Svhag/s1600/Crested%2BGuan.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ck7I_NHWRdY/VwgrpEhphwI/AAAAAAAAG9I/RQOqSckdLkklJlvPtv7TVpD1Pdx9Svhag/s400/Crested%2BGuan.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crested Guan - La Milpa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We saw quite a few birds at La Milpa, but other than the compost dump, which acts almost like a permanent ant swarm, the birding was a bit slow. <br />
<br />
There were a few odd things about staying at La Milpa as a birder: 1) They make you have breakfast at 7:30, which eats up the best possible hour for birding; 2) the local guides charge by the 'segment,' with a segment being either pre-breakfast, 10-noon (lunch), or 3:30-6 (dinner). After talking with the guides we weren't blown away with what they had to say and so were not tempted to break the bank with a full day's worth of guiding fees.<br />
<br />
We hired Francisco for an afternoon, partly out of sympathy (we do like to support the local guides) and partly because he alluded to a Central American Pygmy-Owl stake out. We birded the Mayan ruins with him, which was nice because he also was knowledgeable about the ongoing archeological research. He was also familiar with most of the local bird vocalizations which helped us tick off some target species. Unfortunately the pygmy-owl was a bust.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gpWYFdR_6is/VwgrOY0GbSI/AAAAAAAAG84/l4XTsAKZtyU3gcSrzroKBTblYuhM9auyA/s1600/Collared%2BTrogon.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gpWYFdR_6is/VwgrOY0GbSI/AAAAAAAAG84/l4XTsAKZtyU3gcSrzroKBTblYuhM9auyA/s400/Collared%2BTrogon.jpg" width="398" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Collared Trogon - La Milpa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We woke up pre-dawn our second morning at La Milpa to drive down for a day at the swanky Chan Chich Lodge, built atop the grand plaza of an un-excavated ancient Mayan city. I don't know what it is about Chan Chich--perhaps it was because we happened to be there on Natalia's birthday--but whatever the reason, the birding there was far superior to La Milpa.<br />
<br />
With little effort wandering around the lodge grounds before breakfast (which we were glad to find could be served any time during a 2 hour window) we spotted a few of our most-desired targets, including gems such as: Black-throated Shrike-Tanager and Black-faced Grosbeak.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yus5T6K4qzA/VwgqrECn_UI/AAAAAAAAG8s/MAJulR78hGYGnrUzbMxFqdbxiM3JEmBrA/s1600/Black-throated%2BShrike-Tanager.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="438" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yus5T6K4qzA/VwgqrECn_UI/AAAAAAAAG8s/MAJulR78hGYGnrUzbMxFqdbxiM3JEmBrA/s640/Black-throated%2BShrike-Tanager.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black-throated Shrike-Tanager - Chan Chich</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i0KXeGk8hqU/Vwhsc_kGExI/AAAAAAAAG_g/sycSpN_JtrAdcaBtrbjkm9LH0C4rykKYA/s1600/red-capped%2Bmanakin.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="452" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i0KXeGk8hqU/Vwhsc_kGExI/AAAAAAAAG_g/sycSpN_JtrAdcaBtrbjkm9LH0C4rykKYA/s640/red-capped%2Bmanakin.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red-capped Manakin (of Michael Jackson youtube video fame) were plentiful in the fruiting bushes of Chan Chich</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-di_1GmUGIuQ/VwgsJ7HqdZI/AAAAAAAAG9U/pw1PLT8Mt2Y9w5--ddmp9w9aHKyvFdosw/s1600/Golden-hooded%2BTanager.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-di_1GmUGIuQ/VwgsJ7HqdZI/AAAAAAAAG9U/pw1PLT8Mt2Y9w5--ddmp9w9aHKyvFdosw/s640/Golden-hooded%2BTanager.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Other eye candy came in the form of this Golden-hooded Tanager - Chan Chich</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We were then faced with a bit of conundrum. We came across a good-sized army ant swarm (which is a birder's gold mine), just 20 minutes before the last call for breakfast. Stay and skip breakfast, or not? We ending up opting for breakfast, but at the last minute and not before enjoying some great views of attendant ant-tanagers, woodcreepers and my first ever sighting of a Bright-rumped Attila, a bird whose loud song had so often taunted me from the deep woods of Ecuador and Colombia.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-onje9y9RCIk/Vwgq3gdx1iI/AAAAAAAAG8w/SlZd_6SZBFggopWUV_ekthsxIdTj7PGng/s1600/Bright-rumped%2BAttila.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="432" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-onje9y9RCIk/Vwgq3gdx1iI/AAAAAAAAG8w/SlZd_6SZBFggopWUV_ekthsxIdTj7PGng/s640/Bright-rumped%2BAttila.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bright-rumped Attila, a common bird that's uncommonly seen - Chan Chich</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
After breakfast we prowled the bottomlands and eventually came across Natalia's birthday present along the Bajo trail, a Gray-throated Chat!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eHWpod6mR0Y/VwgsNRK9yLI/AAAAAAAAG9Y/d-fol4T87KcHmRQPwpjUeIIMj4fd6pjfQ/s1600/Gray-throated%2BChat.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="464" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eHWpod6mR0Y/VwgsNRK9yLI/AAAAAAAAG9Y/d-fol4T87KcHmRQPwpjUeIIMj4fd6pjfQ/s640/Gray-throated%2BChat.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gray-throated Chat - Chan Chich</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
This small-ranged bird is one less she has to find on her quest to see the all the world's pink(ish) birds. Finding it came with some personal vindication, as the La Milpa guides said it couldn't be found in the area; they recommended some other lodge that was not on our itinerary.<br />
<br />
One of the birds I most wanted to see on this trip, the near-threatened, gaudy and yucatan endemic, Ocellated Turkey turned out to be a trash bird at Chan Chich. We had been thrilled to spot one lurking at the forest edge of the La Milpa Mayan site, but at Chan Chich, grandiose males prowled the grassy lawns, defiant to approach and menacing with their spurs and testosterone.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_AOcFygvFg4/VwguANk85KI/AAAAAAAAG-E/TWvRQ68c33YC4v4diYegyLCIN6gEN886w/s1600/Occelated%2BTurkey2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_AOcFygvFg4/VwguANk85KI/AAAAAAAAG-E/TWvRQ68c33YC4v4diYegyLCIN6gEN886w/s640/Occelated%2BTurkey2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ocellated Turkey, near-threatened Yucatan Endemic and local yard bird at Chan Chich </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S78B9Hs_8lY/VwgtQatQPVI/AAAAAAAAG90/KI-lYR5mL7gbA0F2D8j1pptqI4Shzo1jQ/s1600/Occelated%2BTurkey1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="472" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S78B9Hs_8lY/VwgtQatQPVI/AAAAAAAAG90/KI-lYR5mL7gbA0F2D8j1pptqI4Shzo1jQ/s640/Occelated%2BTurkey1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">How does it see with all those warts covering the eye?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We even got caught in a standoff with one territorial male on the drive down. After some fancy maneuvering I was able to coax our rented Equinox past him. At this point a dinosaur-SUV chase ensued reminiscent of the T-Rex scene from Jurassic Park.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RW_GsJ11U0g/Vwgt_NnJSVI/AAAAAAAAG-A/MinGUk2dUnIMj-GhQAYH8isbk0P1xb6Hg/s1600/Occelated%2BTurkey3.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="536" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RW_GsJ11U0g/Vwgt_NnJSVI/AAAAAAAAG-A/MinGUk2dUnIMj-GhQAYH8isbk0P1xb6Hg/s640/Occelated%2BTurkey3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Angry Ocellated Turkey; note deadly-looking spurs - road to Chan Chich</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
During the afternoon doldrums we drove our way back toward La Milpa with a few stops here and there in futile hopes of scoring a glimpse of the highly desired and extremely improbable Lovely Cotinga. Instead we were rewarded for our patient ears with the long-winded and lonely checkpoint guard by one final lifer for Natalia's birthday: a Black-cowled Oriole.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-66-8dvfA1lM/VwgsbPrXwuI/AAAAAAAAG9g/WW7eqOTvndUE0ZEKBkp_DHfR_4DWzKkgA/s1600/Great%2BCurassow.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="332" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-66-8dvfA1lM/VwgsbPrXwuI/AAAAAAAAG9g/WW7eqOTvndUE0ZEKBkp_DHfR_4DWzKkgA/s640/Great%2BCurassow.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Much shyer than the turkeys were the Great Curassows, but we did see a few along the road between La Milpa and Chan Chich, including this male</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
We found just a handful of new trip birds on our final morning at La Milpa. Since it seemed as if we were hitting diminishing returns we weren't too sad to leave, especially since our next destination was Ambergris Caye for some diving!<br />
<br />
We spent most of our final Belize days underwater looking for sharks, rays and sea turtles, but we rented a golf cart one afternoon to explore and bird the mangrove habitats north of San Pedro. We were rewarded with three more Yucatan endemics: the Yucatan Vireo, Orange Oriole and Black Catbird.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7a7mfkID0hY/VwgqflE4h8I/AAAAAAAAG8k/hk30HrS8Am84BT_pIb5TGXWxuzx9aBlvg/s1600/Black%2BCatbird.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="522" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7a7mfkID0hY/VwgqflE4h8I/AAAAAAAAG8k/hk30HrS8Am84BT_pIb5TGXWxuzx9aBlvg/s640/Black%2BCatbird.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black Catbird - Ambergris Caye</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
As a bonus I finally spotted a Bronzed Cowbird.<br />
<br />
It was a fun and birdy trip! We logged 225 species in about 4 days of birding and each picked up 40+ lifers. Unfortunately Natalia left Belize 4 life birds short of 2000; poor thing will now have to cope with having her 2000th be some bland Eurasian species.<br />
<br /></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09036340024818230677noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2751020401972674507.post-728037614010864562016-01-13T10:40:00.000-05:002016-01-13T10:53:39.756-05:00A Carolina Bird Club Ornithological Workshop at Tiputini Biodiversity Station<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Nine brave souls joined Natalia and I for an ornithological
expedition to Ecuador’s Yasuni National Park, a UNESCO Biosphere reserve. Lying
on the equator at the base of the Andes, Yasuni is widely regarded to be the
most biodiverse place on earth and provides habitat for ~600 bird species. Our
base of operations would be the Tiputini Biodiversity Station, a remote
research outpost operated by the University de San Francisco de Quito.<br />
</div>
Rather than a standard birding tour with endemic species
targets, we ran this tour as a more holistic ecological learning
experience
with evening lectures paired with related field activities the following
day. For
the purposes of this write-up, the focus is rather strictly on the
birding to suit the intrepid readers of this blog and our sponsoring
organization, the Carolina Bird
Club.<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Given that it takes four legs of travel and a full day to
reach Tiputini, we scheduled buffer days on either end in case of any
international travel delays.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We used the
first of these days to visit the Paramo ecosystem
of Antisana National Reserve. We explored high altitude grasslands at ~12,000
feet of elevation at the base of the active, glacier-capped Antisana volcano, a
world apart from the Amazon or anything in the Carolinas.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BI3ruVE0q94/VoMM9Mi0FfI/AAAAAAAAGyo/GgB5xywxBGM/s1600/1%2BAntisana.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="336" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BI3ruVE0q94/VoMM9Mi0FfI/AAAAAAAAGyo/GgB5xywxBGM/s640/1%2BAntisana.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our group from the Carolina Bird Club bravely birding at the foot of the Antisana Volcano - ~3400 masl</td></tr>
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On the way into the park we stopped to bird stunted
tree-line forest and were rewarded with birds such as the abundant Black
Flowerpiercer and Spectacled Redstart, a real crowd-pleaser, especially for the
warbler fans among us. </div>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XClgQ99SOXM/VoMMyjBVkuI/AAAAAAAAGyg/tZac8E9CY6M/s1600/Black%2BFlowerpiercer.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="258" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XClgQ99SOXM/VoMMyjBVkuI/AAAAAAAAGyg/tZac8E9CY6M/s400/Black%2BFlowerpiercer.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black Flowerpiercer - common in the elfin treeline forests near Antisana</td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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A midmorning stop at the Tambo Condor restaurant gave us
scope views of Andean Condors on the nest, the first of many condors we would
see during the day. </div>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K1oV4FfsgnQ/VoMLy7WTyfI/AAAAAAAAGyY/4G0XBk-1WWc/s1600/Andean%2BCondor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="206" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K1oV4FfsgnQ/VoMLy7WTyfI/AAAAAAAAGyY/4G0XBk-1WWc/s400/Andean%2BCondor.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andean Condor - we saw several in the Paramo near Antisana</td></tr>
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<br />
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Among the throngs of Sparkling Violetears mobbing their
feeders, several Giant Hummingbirds could be seen. We even witnessed a few
visits by the spectacular Sword-billed Hummingbird.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-P7zbObjUNCA/VoMOR0wZUII/AAAAAAAAGy4/ncpmF840188/s1600/Giant%2BHummingbird.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="396" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-P7zbObjUNCA/VoMOR0wZUII/AAAAAAAAGy4/ncpmF840188/s640/Giant%2BHummingbird.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Giant Hummingbird - cooperatively attended feeders at the Tambo Condor restaraunt </td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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The high grasslands were littered with Carunculated Caracara
and Andean Gull, with the prizes hidden among them being the charming Andean
Lapwing and odd Black-faced Ibis, representing a small population disjunct from
the core range in southern South America. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nlDi5PJLE-A/VoMQKyaqCwI/AAAAAAAAGzQ/D0YPY2nJ-Fc/s1600/Black-faced%2BIbis.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="432" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nlDi5PJLE-A/VoMQKyaqCwI/AAAAAAAAGzQ/D0YPY2nJ-Fc/s640/Black-faced%2BIbis.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black-faced Ibis - an isolated population lives in the paramo around Antisana</td></tr>
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<br />
We birded so intensely, puzzling over
the different color morphs of the well-named Variable Hawk and the subtle
differences between Chestnut-winged and Stout-billed Cinclodes, that by the
time we reached the park visitor’s center, we scarcely had time to hike out to
the laguna to see the Slate-colored Coot, Yellow-billed Pintail, Andean Ruddy
Duck, Andean Teal and Silvery Grebe. We practically had to kick the Plumbeous Sierra-Finches, Tawny
Antpittas and Grass Wrens out of the way to get there.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dgx7bzjQvTU/VoMP-JYC0XI/AAAAAAAAGzE/i6Y7VjohZlY/s1600/Plumbeous%2BSierra-Finch.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="404" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dgx7bzjQvTU/VoMP-JYC0XI/AAAAAAAAGzE/i6Y7VjohZlY/s640/Plumbeous%2BSierra-Finch.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plumbeous Sierra-Finch - common and tame in high altitude grassy areas (and parking lots)</td></tr>
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After a late lunch back at Tambo Condor we tallied up 51
species for the day, a great haul for the relatively depauperate Paramo. Crowd
favorites were the condors, the Sword-billed Hummingbird and the nearly endemic
Ecuadorian Hillstar (Colombia has a habit of nullifying Ecuadorian national
endemics and just a couple handfuls remain), but the ‘best’ bird in terms of
rarity and surprise was a Blue-mantled Thornbill at a stream by the visitor’s
center. </div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JM58g29WwC0/VoMNV0p8FyI/AAAAAAAAGyw/0GhWdK09Tjk/s1600/Blue-mantled%2BThornbill.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JM58g29WwC0/VoMNV0p8FyI/AAAAAAAAGyw/0GhWdK09Tjk/s400/Blue-mantled%2BThornbill.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blue-mantled Thornbill - a surprising rare find at Antisana</td></tr>
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<br />
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We returned to our Quito hotel, Café Cultura, just in time
for a lecture about Tiputini Biodiversity Station by its founding director,
Professor Kelly Swing of the University of San Francisco de Quito. He explained
to us how he canoed and camped along the length of the Tiputini River before
selecting the site for the research station in 1994, and how he and other
researchers have been working to catalogue the biodiversity present. Prof. Swing also gave us
a glimpse of the socio-political context of nearby semi-contacted indigenous communities
and insatiable oil extraction.</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PPuzseHDuD4/VoMQKz5GyrI/AAAAAAAAGzM/FMPx8dtCDhE/s1600/Rufous-collared%2BSparrow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="520" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PPuzseHDuD4/VoMQKz5GyrI/AAAAAAAAGzM/FMPx8dtCDhE/s640/Rufous-collared%2BSparrow.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rufous-collared Sparrow - the trashiest of trash birds in Quito and the paramo</td></tr>
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We were up early the next morning to catch our flight to Coca,
a ramshackle Amazonian outpost where we would board a boat to take us meandering
down the Rio Napo. In the blinding late-morning brightness we disembarked at
the Repsol security checkpoint, a gateway to Amazonian wilderness with little of
humanity other than Waorani communities and oil platforms beyond. We rode a
truck two hours down an immaculately maintained gravel service road until we
reached the Tiputini River for one final leg to the station by motorized canoe.
The trip to the Tiputini Biodiversity Station eats up the better part of a day,
but seems to always run flawlessly and provides excellent wildlife viewing
opportunities: a Neotropical River Otter swam by our boat with a fish in its
mouth and of course we saw birds—some familiar Carolinians such as Osprey and the
odd Spotted Sandpiper, but most totally alien, such as King Vulture, the
ubiquitous Drab Water Tyrant, and miraculously, an Orange-breasted Falcon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xQ2v9nQ6s3A/VoMaa4WYluI/AAAAAAAAG0Y/MKkjgX2i0Zo/s1600/Orange-breasted%2BFalcon.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xQ2v9nQ6s3A/VoMaa4WYluI/AAAAAAAAG0Y/MKkjgX2i0Zo/s400/Orange-breasted%2BFalcon.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Orange-breasted Falcon - Near-threatened and a rare find for the lowlands (photo by Jeff Maw)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The latter was perhaps our ‘best’ bird of the
trip as it is known to be a foothill species (and a rare, near-threatened one at
that), reports from the Ecuadorian lowlands had been yet to be documented by
photos, an eBird reviewer would later tell me.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The station has an excellent network of trails, but as we found
on our first morning, searching for birds on a footpath in a primary Amazonian
forest is a recipe for frustration. The canopy birds are all 40 to 50 m overhead and
silhouetted against the sky, while the understory species never run out of
leaves and vine tangles behind which to hide. </div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WEhfxE_8QUY/VoMWzqwCIhI/AAAAAAAAGzk/KLJi5o2hZwk/s1600/1%2BGroup%2Bforest.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="410" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WEhfxE_8QUY/VoMWzqwCIhI/AAAAAAAAGzk/KLJi5o2hZwk/s640/1%2BGroup%2Bforest.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Birding in dense lowland rain forest is hard!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-22KchvyaMV4/VoMXE5RBgzI/AAAAAAAAGzs/GCasYqvUj4Y/s1600/Blue-throated%2BPiping-Guan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="205" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-22KchvyaMV4/VoMXE5RBgzI/AAAAAAAAGzs/GCasYqvUj4Y/s400/Blue-throated%2BPiping-Guan.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blue-throated Piping-Guan - common thanks to the lack of hunting pressure at Tiputini...we would see several Salvin's Curassows and Spix's Guans as well</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rLUPTUEcHjY/VoMaRJoOgCI/AAAAAAAAG0Q/FnqzABwiYxw/s1600/Green-backed%2Btrogon2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="391" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rLUPTUEcHjY/VoMaRJoOgCI/AAAAAAAAG0Q/FnqzABwiYxw/s400/Green-backed%2Btrogon2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Green-backed Trogon - formerly known as Amazonian White-tailed Trogon; in this case most of the white tail is missing, probably from repeated entry into a tight nesting cavity</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bvYywn1-3UU/VoMb0fxRuzI/AAAAAAAAG0s/FTQbrFhLGbU/s1600/Slate-colored%2BHawk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="332" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bvYywn1-3UU/VoMb0fxRuzI/AAAAAAAAG0s/FTQbrFhLGbU/s400/Slate-colored%2BHawk.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slate-colored Hawk - a forest hunter</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
On top of their propensity to skulk out of sight, when one
finally does get a glimpse of the lower strata birds it is rarely sufficient to
confidently identify a woodcreeper or ant-thing from the several pages of vaguely
similar brown/black birds. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For a better
handling on those difficult understory species we set up a dozen mist nets,
which revealed the presence of several birds we would not otherwise detect on the
trip.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We caught 13 species including Common Scale-backed Antbird, Amazonian
Barred Woodcreeper, a pair of Blue-crowned Manakins and incredibly, a
Green-backed Trogon.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xUSmXLKjUwA/VoMfIxzM9AI/AAAAAAAAG1A/pllsaiQxbNI/s1600/Amazonian%2BBarred%2BWoodcreeper.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="440" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xUSmXLKjUwA/VoMfIxzM9AI/AAAAAAAAG1A/pllsaiQxbNI/s640/Amazonian%2BBarred%2BWoodcreeper.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amazonian Barred Woodcreeper</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9s1aFFvcLq4/VoMeTPLmChI/AAAAAAAAG04/Dpiv5Tmkrls/s1600/Blue-crowned%2BManakin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9s1aFFvcLq4/VoMeTPLmChI/AAAAAAAAG04/Dpiv5Tmkrls/s640/Blue-crowned%2BManakin.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">His and hers Blue-crowned Manakins - note the female (right) shows a few blue plumes on the head. The local manakin expert explained to us that it is common for older females to show hints of male plumages</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jtSaK9v_suA/VoMhGf40ahI/AAAAAAAAG1Y/DVfH3vVTyok/s1600/Green-backed%2BTrogon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jtSaK9v_suA/VoMhGf40ahI/AAAAAAAAG1Y/DVfH3vVTyok/s640/Green-backed%2BTrogon.jpg" width="516" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Green-backed Trogon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g4wpXFw9LWg/VoMhCkdNKWI/AAAAAAAAG1Q/vz5BpWPjxHM/s1600/Peruvian%2BWarbling-Antbird.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="514" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g4wpXFw9LWg/VoMhCkdNKWI/AAAAAAAAG1Q/vz5BpWPjxHM/s640/Peruvian%2BWarbling-Antbird.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Peruvian Warbling Antbird (male) - we caught his female partner at the same time</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zkdPm3vWN-Y/VoMgtU0VvKI/AAAAAAAAG1I/TPwV9I6zBSM/s1600/Scale-backed%2BAntbird.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="308" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zkdPm3vWN-Y/VoMgtU0VvKI/AAAAAAAAG1I/TPwV9I6zBSM/s400/Scale-backed%2BAntbird.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Common Scale-backed Antbird - Amazonian birds bite</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IBeFL1KBZSA/VoMheF7ABrI/AAAAAAAAG1g/9vKw_QsTSH0/s1600/Wedge-billed%2BWoodcreeper.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="291" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IBeFL1KBZSA/VoMheF7ABrI/AAAAAAAAG1g/9vKw_QsTSH0/s400/Wedge-billed%2BWoodcreeper.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wedge-billed Woodcreeper - Natalia displays the rarely seen under-wing pattern</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
An excellent method for viewing birds at Tiputini is by boat
and we put one the station’s crafts to excellent use.</div>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rDoOQT6LOJM/Vokjf9kcSoI/AAAAAAAAG14/kc5JM0p1PEU/s1600/1%2BGroup%2Bboat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="392" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rDoOQT6LOJM/Vokjf9kcSoI/AAAAAAAAG14/kc5JM0p1PEU/s640/1%2BGroup%2Bboat.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the Tiputini River - Jose was our faithful captain and Mayer (not pictured), our diligent spotter</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
It’s not just great for the expected riverside species like
kingfishers…</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eA3JogBft98/Vokj-rP4WpI/AAAAAAAAG2o/4dnZRZDxrxM/s1600/Green%2BKingfisher.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="226" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eA3JogBft98/Vokj-rP4WpI/AAAAAAAAG2o/4dnZRZDxrxM/s400/Green%2BKingfisher.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Green Kingfisher - we saw four kingfisher species along the Tiputini</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
…it also gives an unobstructed view of all forest levels
from the soil to the treetops. From the boat we saw canopy species like
Paradise Tanager and Purple-throated Cotinga as well as terrestrial species
like Undulated Tinamou and Ruddy Quail-Dove.</div>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1cheUhnyZPo/VokjkZ2-5lI/AAAAAAAAG2A/f27lNL9MwYs/s1600/Chestnut-fronted%2BMacaw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="344" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1cheUhnyZPo/VokjkZ2-5lI/AAAAAAAAG2A/f27lNL9MwYs/s640/Chestnut-fronted%2BMacaw.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A loving pair of Chestnut-fronted Macaws along the Tiputini</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--59OeAyPJAA/Vokjui_ht8I/AAAAAAAAG2Y/IgHPgYdjtg4/s1600/Common%2BPotoo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="460" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--59OeAyPJAA/Vokjui_ht8I/AAAAAAAAG2Y/IgHPgYdjtg4/s640/Common%2BPotoo.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Common Potoo on 'nest' - we later saw its white egg</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5QJevVmWslQ/Vokj0pFT5FI/AAAAAAAAG2g/3clI2G-zNTY/s1600/Great%2BPotoo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="418" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5QJevVmWslQ/Vokj0pFT5FI/AAAAAAAAG2g/3clI2G-zNTY/s640/Great%2BPotoo.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Great Potoo - the greatest of potoos in my opinion</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-72zuprBMP3A/VokkFS0P1FI/AAAAAAAAG24/uLwQ-QP0ev4/s1600/White-eared%2BJacamar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="386" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-72zuprBMP3A/VokkFS0P1FI/AAAAAAAAG24/uLwQ-QP0ev4/s640/White-eared%2BJacamar.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White-eared Jacamar - seen frequently along the Tiputini</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pSJiMksz5fk/VokoU7KS34I/AAAAAAAAG3U/NF-8pir-iMc/s1600/Ladder-tailed%2BNightjar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pSJiMksz5fk/VokoU7KS34I/AAAAAAAAG3U/NF-8pir-iMc/s400/Ladder-tailed%2BNightjar.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ladder-tailed Nightjar - miraculously spotted while roosting in a beached jumble of branches along the banks of the Tiputini</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
By boat we travelled the short 20 minutes to a clay lick
where six species of parrots practice geophagy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>What a spectacle!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-goYw_qgKicw/Vokjt6fmw3I/AAAAAAAAG2U/nA-vfmgJeAY/s1600/Clay%2BLick.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="486" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-goYw_qgKicw/Vokjt6fmw3I/AAAAAAAAG2U/nA-vfmgJeAY/s640/Clay%2BLick.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clay lick chaos - pictured are: Mealy Parrot, Blue-headed Parrot, Orange-cheeked Parrot, Dusky-headed Parakeet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We also used the boat to visit an oxbow lake where the
bizarre Hoatzin breeds by the dozens.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AkwVi8jkFwg/VokkAXi8BJI/AAAAAAAAG2w/CsTBCPjoyRo/s1600/Hoatzins.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AkwVi8jkFwg/VokkAXi8BJI/AAAAAAAAG2w/CsTBCPjoyRo/s640/Hoatzins.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a pair of Hoatzin - in case you were still on the fence about whether birds are dinosaurs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zLvawKo6FAM/VokkMKUifzI/AAAAAAAAG3A/CKL4yBJV-iM/s1600/baby%2BHoatzin.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="342" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zLvawKo6FAM/VokkMKUifzI/AAAAAAAAG3A/CKL4yBJV-iM/s640/baby%2BHoatzin.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hoatzin nestling</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A couple unexpected gems here were a Rufescent Tiger-Heron
on a nest and one of my long sought-after species, Agami Heron.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RYKJEph1OfU/VokoQ3ASFII/AAAAAAAAG3M/2ZZn1mHAwnc/s1600/Rufescent%2BTiger-Heron.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="412" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RYKJEph1OfU/VokoQ3ASFII/AAAAAAAAG3M/2ZZn1mHAwnc/s640/Rufescent%2BTiger-Heron.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rufescent Tiger-Heron on nest</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v9-WQQ_m-z4/Vokjl_A_uXI/AAAAAAAAG2I/3oGTO-QvaJA/s1600/Agami%2BHeron.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="418" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v9-WQQ_m-z4/Vokjl_A_uXI/AAAAAAAAG2I/3oGTO-QvaJA/s640/Agami%2BHeron.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Agami Heron!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
For better viewing of the birds flitting around high
overhead we employed the station’s sturdy 50 m high canopy tower, which sits
within the crown of an emergent ceiba tree, giving a commanding view over a sea
of pristine climax forest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Indeed the
feeling up there is reminiscent of pelagic birding, except with the platform
mercifully still and the blue cresting waves replaced the green humps of tree
tops. Instead of shearwaters, petrels and storm-petrels there are toucans,
macaws and gaudy flocks of tanagers.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Unfortunately I was bed-ridden with flu on this crucial morning,
so missed out on some amazing birding and photography. So it goes. Reports of
crippling views of Black-bellied Cuckoo and Golden-collared Toucanet were
enough to make me jealous.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n50ixEFA5vI/VoMY-cjMjgI/AAAAAAAAGz4/AzA2YLAviFk/s1600/Black-bellied%2BCuckoo.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="356" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n50ixEFA5vI/VoMY-cjMjgI/AAAAAAAAGz4/AzA2YLAviFk/s400/Black-bellied%2BCuckoo.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black-bellied Cuckoo - photographed not from the canopy tower</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At Tiputini we racked up species, but inevitiably, in a
place with such a long list of rare and local birds we left a lot on the table.
On our last day we added 20+ new species to the trip list including great spot lit
looks at Spectacled Owl and Crested Owl right over our cabins. We were nowhere
close to hitting diminishing returns and had we stayed a 7<sup>th</sup> day, I’m
sure we could have added another ~20 more.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZhJ3Lhx69ec/Vokp-V36EfI/AAAAAAAAG3k/G54EibwctM4/s1600/Group%2BTiputini.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZhJ3Lhx69ec/Vokp-V36EfI/AAAAAAAAG3k/G54EibwctM4/s640/Group%2BTiputini.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carolina Bird Club group at the entrance to Tiputini Biodiversity Station</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Crowd favorites for Tiputini were Golden-collared Toucanet, Agami
Heron, Golden-headed Manakin and Pavonine Quetzal.</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oiJ3degNwJg/VoMaQAdsVSI/AAAAAAAAG0I/tT-UtiIvtOM/s1600/Golden-headed%2BManakin.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="252" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oiJ3degNwJg/VoMaQAdsVSI/AAAAAAAAG0I/tT-UtiIvtOM/s400/Golden-headed%2BManakin.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Golden Headed Manakin</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zOBZHapQBxw/VoMbKFVEVeI/AAAAAAAAG0g/aNuuu9YSzNw/s1600/Pavonine%2BQuetzal.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="233" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zOBZHapQBxw/VoMbKFVEVeI/AAAAAAAAG0g/aNuuu9YSzNw/s400/Pavonine%2BQuetzal.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pavonine Quetzal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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</div>
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On the trek back we out we added one new trip bird:
Broad-winged Hawk, a rare bird for the amazon and a lifer for nobody in our
group except our 72-year-old guide!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QG1pj_g0b_Q/VoMZXX-JkhI/AAAAAAAAG0A/m_oOlkA9ggw/s1600/Broad-winged%2BHawk.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="288" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QG1pj_g0b_Q/VoMZXX-JkhI/AAAAAAAAG0A/m_oOlkA9ggw/s400/Broad-winged%2BHawk.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Broad-winged Hawk - a rare find for the lowlands and a lifer for Mayer, our 72-year-old guide</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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For our final day of the tour we dropped down the western
slope of the Andes to visit one of the most famous birding sites in all of
South America—Refugio Paz de las Aves. Here outside the rural town of
Nanegalito, Angel Paz invented and perfected the art of worm-feeding antpittas. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WW-BT3xPVKI/VokqulPO0TI/AAAAAAAAG38/BSLi6d4aMvE/s1600/1%2Bgroup%2BAngel%2BPaz.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="348" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WW-BT3xPVKI/VokqulPO0TI/AAAAAAAAG38/BSLi6d4aMvE/s640/1%2Bgroup%2BAngel%2BPaz.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Happy 51st birthday Angel!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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</div>
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We
started the day in the pre-dawn gloom at a lek of Ecuador’s national bird, the
Andean Cock-of-the-rock. Several blood-red males danced and sang their ethereal
warblings. But soon Angel whisked us off on a mad dash to the various Antpitta
feeding areas. They would only come out in the morning and were a bit spread
out, so time was tight. Thus we had to don blinders and ignore several mixed
species flocks, no doubt packed with additional trip birds and lifers, but it
was a worthy sacrifice as Angel delivered.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z0paXYFha1A/VokqoEFLVtI/AAAAAAAAG30/cCJucTkyPmM/s1600/2%2BChestnut-crowned%2BAntpitta.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="582" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z0paXYFha1A/VokqoEFLVtI/AAAAAAAAG30/cCJucTkyPmM/s640/2%2BChestnut-crowned%2BAntpitta.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'Angelita,' Chestnut-crowned Antpitta - the least rare, and arguably, the prettiest of Refugio Paz de las Aves' Antpittas</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
When I had been to visit Angel before, only Maria, the Giant
Antpitta had made an appearance. But on this day—incidentally, it was his 51<sup>st</sup>
birthday—Angel procured for us a sweep of 5 of 5 possible antpittas: Maria, the
Giant, endangered and endemic to the Choco bioregion; Willy, the Yellow-breasted;
Angelita, the Chestnut-crowned; Shakira, the petite Ochre-breasted with her
swinging hips; and Susan, the Moustached, vulnerable and endemic to the Choco. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YUV5RBQ417A/VokqkHLKacI/AAAAAAAAG3s/YGSH3xZC1FM/s1600/3%2BOchre-breasted%2BAntpitta.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="440" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YUV5RBQ417A/VokqkHLKacI/AAAAAAAAG3s/YGSH3xZC1FM/s640/3%2BOchre-breasted%2BAntpitta.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'Shakira,' the hip-swinging Ochre-breasted Antpitta</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The hummingbird and banana feeders with gems like Velvet-purple Coronet and
Purple-bibbed Whitetip were icing on the cake. Choco endemic Dark-backed
Wood-Quail, Black-chinned Mountain-Tanager, Toucan Barbet and Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan
(featured on the cover of our field guide) were cherries on the frosting. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yo1jwItZ6iM/Vokq5Fab3iI/AAAAAAAAG4M/CU_04se5G98/s1600/Blue-winged%2BMountain-Tanager.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="328" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yo1jwItZ6iM/Vokq5Fab3iI/AAAAAAAAG4M/CU_04se5G98/s400/Blue-winged%2BMountain-Tanager.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager - drawn close by bananas left out by Angel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NSG-hhCi-rU/VokrBdP2AaI/AAAAAAAAG4U/rW1MZXLeBGA/s1600/Dusky-capped%2BFlycatcher.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="472" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NSG-hhCi-rU/VokrBdP2AaI/AAAAAAAAG4U/rW1MZXLeBGA/s640/Dusky-capped%2BFlycatcher.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dusky-capped Flycatcher - my favorite Myiarchus rudely interrupted breakfast</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0OC26w6pso4/VokrGZpuzxI/AAAAAAAAG4c/juaDlJ_Y_YY/s1600/Golden%2BGrosbeak.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="462" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0OC26w6pso4/VokrGZpuzxI/AAAAAAAAG4c/juaDlJ_Y_YY/s640/Golden%2BGrosbeak.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Golden Grosbeak (female) - nice view from breakfast at Refugio Paz de las Aves</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
By the time we finished a delicious breakfast, it was
afternoon and we were hopelessly behind schedule. We had lunch soon-after
overlooking another array of hummingbird and banana feeders that provided dozens
of hummingbirds and tanagers included White-whiskered Hermit, Western Emerald
and Silver-throated Tanager. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cKmczfyHHFY/Vokq0pmhkSI/AAAAAAAAG4E/YZ_vxVkUSvA/s1600/4%2BFeeder%2Bwatching.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="432" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cKmczfyHHFY/Vokq0pmhkSI/AAAAAAAAG4E/YZ_vxVkUSvA/s640/4%2BFeeder%2Bwatching.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The best way to eat lunch: with a pile of bananas and 15 hummingbird feeders</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We took a short walk along a stream laden with
White-capped Dipper to find a an active Cock-of-the-rock nest under a bridge.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We took the old scenic highway back toward Quito and as we
climbed up the Andes stopped to ogle a Crimson-bellied Mountain-Tanager that
flew across the road before we reached the charming town of Nono. Here we
sipped tea spiked with homebrew while ticking some final trip birds such as Mountain
Velvet-breast, Collared Inca and Rufous-chested Tanager.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After the final accounting, we logged a mind-boggling
381 bird species in just 10 days in the field, enough to smash the North
Carolina big year record. In reality, omitting heard-only birds and those seen by
others in the group, each individual participant probably ticked 300-330. I
usually make a point of ignoring non-birds on this blog, but in the case of
this trip, that seems a bit criminal, as we saw 16 large mammal species
including 9 types of monkeys at Tiputini. The myriad snakes, turtles, lizards,
bats and kaleidoscope of butterflies, will go otherwise unmentioned. </div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Apart from Natalia and I getting sick (a trip tradition),
everything, the birds, the weather, the group seemed to coalesce flawlessly.
All left Quito with memories for a lifetime and plenty of stories to tell at
holiday gatherings and Christmas Bird Count dinners. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0OC26w6pso4/VokrGZpuzxI/AAAAAAAAG4c/juaDlJ_Y_YY/s1600/Golden%2BGrosbeak.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09036340024818230677noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2751020401972674507.post-54645180852302555462015-11-12T16:40:00.002-05:002015-11-12T16:41:43.089-05:00Birds in a Changing World: Killing birds: Scientists?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
A scientist collects one pretty kingfisher and the whole internet goes crazy:<br />
<a href="https://blogs.nicholas.duke.edu/birds/killing-birds-scientists/">https://blogs.nicholas.duke.edu/birds/killing-birds-scientists/</a></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09036340024818230677noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2751020401972674507.post-40314868988954876912015-10-22T15:51:00.000-04:002015-10-22T15:51:27.991-04:00Birds in a Changing World: Killing Birds: Invasive species in Hawaii<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Hawaii is a tough place to go birding, as I found out while visiting the U.S. extinction capital to present at a conference.<br />
<a href="http://blogs.nicholas.duke.edu/birds/killing-birds-invasive-species-in-hawaii/">Read about it at Birds in a Changing World</a></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09036340024818230677noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2751020401972674507.post-57736856873452770632015-10-18T23:52:00.001-04:002015-10-19T09:32:08.044-04:00Gambling on a Gambel's Sparrow<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Yesterday I was helping band birds with Natalia out at a beautiful Piedmont Prairie restoration site near the Uwharrie National Forest, when we caught a White-crowed Sparrow.<br />
<br />
White-crownes aren't all that common in North Carolina, so getting to catch and handle one was an exciting diversion from the hordes of Song and Field Sparrows. But something about this bird made it a little bit extra special:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KSbQdQjxkOc/ViRj88gc0WI/AAAAAAAAGuM/U6pYw2KaJKk/s1600/blue%2Bwhite-crowned%2Bsparrow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="365" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KSbQdQjxkOc/ViRj88gc0WI/AAAAAAAAGuM/U6pYw2KaJKk/s400/blue%2Bwhite-crowned%2Bsparrow.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White-crowned Sparrow</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Can you see it?<br />
<br />
The lores (space between the eye and bill) are pale, when they -should- be filled with a black line connecting the black of the broken eye ring to the black crown stripe at the base of the upper mandible. At least that's how birds in the east, belonging to the nominate subspecies, leucophrys, are supposed to look. <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.carolinabirdclub.org/gallery/Weber/wcsp.html">Here's an example of a typical eastern adult.</a><br />
<br />
Sibley illustrates this difference in his Second Edition and provides some detailed commentary about the five subspecies on his website: <a href="http://www.sibleyguides.com/bird-info/white-crowned-sparrow/">http://www.sibleyguides.com/bird-info/white-crowned-sparrow/</a><br />
<br />
The bird we caught looks like a good candidate for the Western Taiga (Gambel's) White-crowned Sparrow, which might be a rare find in North Carolina. <a href="http://www.carolinabirdclub.org/ncbirds/view.php?species_id=521">The Birds of North Carolina: their Distribution and Abundance</a> website lists just two prior records: a specimen collected from the mountains in late Oct. 1932, and a report of one at a feeder near the coast on the odd date (for an overwintering species) of July 14, 2007.<br />
<br />
But a quick perusal of the Carolina Bird Club photo gallery turns up several examples of birds that might make decent Gambel's, or at least east-west intergrade, candidates. See <a href="http://www.carolinabirdclub.org/gallery/swkilpatrick/wcsp_2.html">here</a>, <a href="http://www.carolinabirdclub.org/gallery/Fowler/wcsp.html">here</a>, <a href="http://www.carolinabirdclub.org/gallery/swkilpatrick/wcsp.html">here</a>, <a href="http://www.carolinabirdclub.org/gallery/Ennis/wcsp_2.html">here</a>, <a href="http://www.carolinabirdclub.org/gallery/Anthony/wcsp.html">and here.</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.sibleyguides.com/2010/11/white-crowned-sparrow-subspecies-where/">Sibley, further discusses the distribution of winter subspecies</a> and observes that pale-lored White-crowns are found in the east far more frequently than we should expect given what we know about the north-south orientation of Gambel's migration. He laments that... "it just doesn’t seem like these birds should show up in the east more often than, say, Harris’s Sparrow."<br />
<br />
North Carolina has 9 records of Harris's Sparrow. How many Gambel's-looking White-crowned Sparrow records would their be if birders were looking out for them and reporting them?<br />
<br />
Some of the comments below Sibley's post suggest that up to 10% of wintering White-crowns appear to be Gambel's type in Southern New England, so perhaps the little sparrow we caught isn't quite so unexpected.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vQvUzFAyJi0/ViRkOFpG66I/AAAAAAAAGuU/RNeeJEQ3cj0/s1600/White-crowned%2BSparrow.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="331" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vQvUzFAyJi0/ViRkOFpG66I/AAAAAAAAGuU/RNeeJEQ3cj0/s400/White-crowned%2BSparrow.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
If we take a closer look at those lores, you can just make out a hint of blackness to the feathering.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3gciaE71Z3c/ViRkQPmYzvI/AAAAAAAAGuc/H6CjLDSgXH4/s1600/White-crowned%2BSparrow%2Blore%2Bcrop.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="337" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3gciaE71Z3c/ViRkQPmYzvI/AAAAAAAAGuc/H6CjLDSgXH4/s400/White-crowned%2BSparrow%2Blore%2Bcrop.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
OK. How about an even closer look.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NPgcoh8GPF4/ViRlDwg7mkI/AAAAAAAAGuo/M3axmtFNOyE/s1600/lore%2Bdouble%2Bcrop.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="327" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NPgcoh8GPF4/ViRlDwg7mkI/AAAAAAAAGuo/M3axmtFNOyE/s400/lore%2Bdouble%2Bcrop.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Could this bird be from the intergrade zone between leucophrys and gambeli?<br />
<br />
<br />
This bird wintering in Los Angeles certainly seems to lack even this hint of black and is probably a good standard for 'pure' gambeli.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RlqKOTj2ffI/ViRkcPQ5FPI/AAAAAAAAGuk/_o0UsClNq90/s1600/White-crowned%2BSparrow.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="276" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RlqKOTj2ffI/ViRkcPQ5FPI/AAAAAAAAGuk/_o0UsClNq90/s400/White-crowned%2BSparrow.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gambel's White-crowned Sparrow, Los Angeles, CA</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Heck the front of the eye ring isn't even broken and the bill looks way more yellow-orange (rather than pink-orange).<br />
<br />
Wherever the bird we caught came from and whatever subspecies to which it may belong, it's fun to discover that there's still so much we don't understand about relatively common and well-known North American birds.<br />
<br />
<br />
What do you think of this bird? Would you bet on Gambeli? Third North Carolina report?</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09036340024818230677noreply@blogger.com37tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2751020401972674507.post-84190047598640085052015-08-23T22:14:00.000-04:002015-08-24T11:32:50.068-04:00A pair of boobies off Hatteras<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-enyU_iYCmE0/Vdp0JRONKEI/AAAAAAAAGok/BPmjWwqo4Ic/s1600/Audubon%2527s%2BShearwater.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
This weekend was Natalia's first time officially spotting on a pelagic. While she performed admirably for a couple days out in the Gulf Stream aboard the Stormy Petrel II, a sexier pair of boobies ended up stealing the show. <br />
<br />
You never know what to expect when rolling the dice on a pelagic trip, or hell, in birding anywhere, but on Friday's trip we encountered something unprecedented. We first spotted a distant sulid--a young Brown Booby, which uncooperatively picked up and flew away from the boat. Not 15 minutes later as we were creeping up on a flock of sitting shearwaters I heard Brian's voice over the radio urging us to look at the "big white bird in the middle."<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-utByf4RVJYw/Vdp1FWpmj8I/AAAAAAAAGpU/MUhZbnUsHMw/s1600/Masked%2BBooby7.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="116" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-utByf4RVJYw/Vdp1FWpmj8I/AAAAAAAAGpU/MUhZbnUsHMw/s640/Masked%2BBooby7.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Masked Booby with Cory's Shearwaters</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
This booby was far more friendly than its Brown cousin and seemed content to preen with its shearwater friends while we ogled from close range.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1J7FPcYK40Y/Vdp0_iT7DcI/AAAAAAAAGpM/LrQ8DSLn2Xk/s1600/Masked%2BBooby4.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="346" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1J7FPcYK40Y/Vdp0_iT7DcI/AAAAAAAAGpM/LrQ8DSLn2Xk/s640/Masked%2BBooby4.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Masked Booby </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
It looked like it was molting into its first set of adult or near-adult feathers, giving it a bit of a mud-spattered look. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rrUQXnZrNrQ/Vdp0ekHinjI/AAAAAAAAGo0/4YcLJbIT4dg/s1600/Masked%2BBooby2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="350" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rrUQXnZrNrQ/Vdp0ekHinjI/AAAAAAAAGo0/4YcLJbIT4dg/s640/Masked%2BBooby2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Masked Booby</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The mud-spattered thoughts were too offensive and off it flew.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uc9sFSEZ5WA/Vdp0Zi5erHI/AAAAAAAAGos/wM7nz2YO40I/s1600/Masked%2BBooby1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="412" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uc9sFSEZ5WA/Vdp0Zi5erHI/AAAAAAAAGos/wM7nz2YO40I/s640/Masked%2BBooby1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Masked Booby</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
With two boobies around and the hot, still weather, it was feeling like the Caribbean out there, so not surprising that Bridled Terns also put in a good showing.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3gBSdDr9cf8/Vdpz8VX71GI/AAAAAAAAGoU/Fpc6M5xlV70/s1600/Bridled%2BTern.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="344" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3gBSdDr9cf8/Vdpz8VX71GI/AAAAAAAAGoU/Fpc6M5xlV70/s640/Bridled%2BTern.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bridled Tern</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Otherwise, the weekend provided the usual summer pelagic species found off Hatteras.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-enyU_iYCmE0/Vdp0JRONKEI/AAAAAAAAGok/BPmjWwqo4Ic/s1600/Audubon%2527s%2BShearwater.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="322" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-enyU_iYCmE0/Vdp0JRONKEI/AAAAAAAAGok/BPmjWwqo4Ic/s640/Audubon%2527s%2BShearwater.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Great Shearwaters</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FhMUBbUi5S8/Vdp0zmyOA-I/AAAAAAAAGpE/SU34klAPNU8/s1600/Masked%2BBooby5.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="246" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FhMUBbUi5S8/Vdp0zmyOA-I/AAAAAAAAGpE/SU34klAPNU8/s640/Masked%2BBooby5.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cory's Shearwater (with Masked Booby)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
A north wind turned the ocean into a roller coaster on Saturday which brought a lot more Black-capped Petrels in close to the boat.<br />
<br />
I rate myself a pretty lousy sea bird photographer and this pic captures my lack of skill, while at the same time the Black-capped Petrel essence. They're so fast it's all I can do to keep one in frame!<br />
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<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g85vYZR0FFg/Vdp0GkoUcMI/AAAAAAAAGoc/bMrmpt3HKZY/s1600/Black-capped%2BPetrel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g85vYZR0FFg/Vdp0GkoUcMI/AAAAAAAAGoc/bMrmpt3HKZY/s640/Black-capped%2BPetrel.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black-capped Petrel - has places to go</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The Saturday trip also offered some good looks at Band-rumped Storm-Petrel, which we missed entirely on Friday.<br />
<br />
Thanks to Brian Patteson and Kate Sutherland for organizing the trips and making it a fun weekend.</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09036340024818230677noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2751020401972674507.post-77831645729579698302015-08-16T21:38:00.003-04:002015-10-19T09:32:27.272-04:00Three more NC birds with one stone<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://birdaholic.blogspot.com/2015/06/three-nc-birds-with-one-stone.html">Last post</a> I said this would never happen again: three NC birds ticked in one day. Yet, here we are just a couple months later and its deja vu with the blog titles.<br />
<br />
North Carolina birders had been bemoaning a relatively long drought of exciting chase-able rarities. Such negative feelings apparently made an impression upon the birding gods, which conjured in relatively short succession a couple of cooperative mind-bogglers (1st and 5th state records). <br />
<br />
So the day began innocently enough. Natalia and I set off after work toward Grandfather Mountain for a leisurely mountain chase trip. But as we were passing through Burlington I got word of a Western Kingbird just 15 minutes north of Winston-Salem.<br />
<br />
Within an hour I was staring at a NC bird that had many times eluded me--what birders would call a nemesis bird.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VLlYA2Mw54Q/VdEYtn-yRQI/AAAAAAAAGl4/6jMMpfCZwz0/s1600/Western%2BKingbird1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="371" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VLlYA2Mw54Q/VdEYtn-yRQI/AAAAAAAAGl4/6jMMpfCZwz0/s640/Western%2BKingbird1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Western Kingbird, First Forsyth County Record (and an odd NC record for mid-august)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
August is an especially weird time for one of these western vagrants to show up. October would be typical and they are far more frequently found along the coast.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nFiyXvLUGgQ/VdEYsfskaRI/AAAAAAAAGlw/VMG3_JivcRY/s1600/Western%2BKingbird2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nFiyXvLUGgQ/VdEYsfskaRI/AAAAAAAAGlw/VMG3_JivcRY/s640/Western%2BKingbird2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Western Kingbird, Forsyth County, NC</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
After Natalia and I watched this odd kingbird zip out of sight behind a barn, there were no subsequent sightings that afternoon or the following day. A less-than one-day wonder. And finally a WEKI that let me see it before vanishing.<br />
<br />
After a night camping in the mountains near Boone, we were up early to be one of the first to enter Grandfather Mountain. After a short wait at the iconic Swinging Bridge we were greeted by North Carolina's 1st documented Townsend's Solitaire.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8gDiTVcaWtk/VdEoDZcJn0I/AAAAAAAAGm4/1oNsgpmYgG8/s1600/Townsend%2527s%2BSolitaire3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="434" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8gDiTVcaWtk/VdEoDZcJn0I/AAAAAAAAGm4/1oNsgpmYgG8/s640/Townsend%2527s%2BSolitaire3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Townsend's Solitaire, Grandfather Mountain, NC</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
August was a weird time for this bird to show up here. Typically when this atypical species is discovered as an East Coast vagrant, it's the dead of winter.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_fmKuL3gqfQ/VdEnzxo6ysI/AAAAAAAAGmo/6pPOiijAC7Y/s1600/Townsend%2527s%2BSolitaire1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="492" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_fmKuL3gqfQ/VdEnzxo6ysI/AAAAAAAAGmo/6pPOiijAC7Y/s640/Townsend%2527s%2BSolitaire1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Townsend's Solitaire, Grandfather Mountain, NC</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Grandfather Mountain executive director, Jesse Pope is a keen birder and has been all over this bird and keeping Carolina Birders appraised of its comings and goings (Curtis Smalling of Audubon North Carolina was the original finder). Jesse says it has been very loyal to the patch of spruce trees in the vicinity of the swinging bridge. Could the bridges squeaks, reminiscent of solitaire song, have called it over to NC from the western mountains of its home range?<br />
<br />
As a bonus, the spruce cones at Grandfather have produced a bumper crop this season, setting up prime conditions for viewing the elusive and erratic Appalachian Red Crossbill.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PwH4k82k0LE/VdEnpJ8xf5I/AAAAAAAAGmg/qFdvk5WDMF8/s1600/Red%2BCrossbill1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="550" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PwH4k82k0LE/VdEnpJ8xf5I/AAAAAAAAGmg/qFdvk5WDMF8/s640/Red%2BCrossbill1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red Crossbill, Grandfather Mountain, NC</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
These birds' specially evolved crossed bill used for prying open cones are an evolutionary fascination. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RvYXYoO5dZk/VdEn-WUWUYI/AAAAAAAAGmw/4oCJzLQzS4k/s1600/Red%2BCrossbill2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="406" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RvYXYoO5dZk/VdEn-WUWUYI/AAAAAAAAGmw/4oCJzLQzS4k/s640/Red%2BCrossbill2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red Crossbills, Grandfather Mountain, NC</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
This was a lifer for Natalia as well.<br />
<br />
Since things had been going so smoothly, we decided to swing by upper Lake Norman on our way back east to try and catch up with NC's 5th Limpkin record. We had to rent a kayak and paddle a couple miles upstream to get to the muddy cove it has been haunting the past couple weeks.<br />
<br />
Thankfully our blistered fingers and paddle-sore shoulders were not in vain and this Floridian beauty made a show of bashing open mussels right before our eyes. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iwbKj9z11OI/VdEY1oTyHoI/AAAAAAAAGmA/ODTNy5Re72E/s1600/Limpkin1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iwbKj9z11OI/VdEY1oTyHoI/AAAAAAAAGmA/ODTNy5Re72E/s640/Limpkin1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Limpkin, Iredell County, NC</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I had always thought that the limited range of large snails (i.e. Apple Snails) is what limited the extent of Limpkins in the US, but this lost individual has apparently been subsisting on mussels for some time. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4ij8BW402gc/VdEZCYTf0OI/AAAAAAAAGmI/4Uh60QFFL0U/s1600/Limpkin2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="372" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4ij8BW402gc/VdEZCYTf0OI/AAAAAAAAGmI/4Uh60QFFL0U/s640/Limpkin2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Limpkin, Iredell County, NC</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Another pair of birders was out kayaking to see the Limpkin this day and the owner of Long Island Paddle Sports called the bird a 'godsend' for all the business it has brought him. He joked about importing flamingoes so he could enjoy another birder bump.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ibMPH-kstBc/VdEZIuCmayI/AAAAAAAAGmQ/8uYeAjINXCo/s1600/Limpkin3.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="370" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ibMPH-kstBc/VdEZIuCmayI/AAAAAAAAGmQ/8uYeAjINXCo/s640/Limpkin3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Limpkin, Iredell County, NC</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Speaking of birder bumps, the one at Grandfather over the past few days has been substantial. Jesse estimated at least 100 birders have visited specifically to see the first state record Townsend's Solitaire. At $20 per head entrance fee, that's not an insignificant windfall for the non-profit. It will continue to balloon as long as the bird continues to stay faithful to its copse of spruce by the bridge.<br />
<br />
For me, this trio of unexpected birds was a personal windfall of sorts. Not that I expect the checks to begin showing up in the mail, but if new NC birds keep coming in threes maybe one day I'll crack 400. </div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09036340024818230677noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2751020401972674507.post-51474069144983435942015-06-12T12:31:00.000-04:002015-06-12T12:31:13.601-04:00Killing Birds: Glass<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://blogs.nicholas.duke.edu/birds/killing-birds-glass/">Killing Birds: Glass</a><br />
<br />
Up now at my Nicholas School of the Environment Blog: <a href="http://blogs.nicholas.duke.edu/birds/">Birds in a Changing World</a></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09036340024818230677noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2751020401972674507.post-66336929493409908312015-06-11T22:21:00.001-04:002015-10-19T09:32:41.679-04:00Three NC birds with one stone<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Natalia and I had a little getaway to Wilmington last weekend and took the opportunity to follow up on some unusual birds that have been hanging around southeastern North Carolina.<br />
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Shortly after dipping on Swallow-tailed Kites a few years ago with Nate Swick, the species was finally confirmed to be breeding in the Cape Fear River floodplain forest just below Lock and Dam #1. Since they seem to be spreading northward, I figured they would get easier and easier each year. At long last my patience has paid off.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-by4yDY2YiGc/VXogCE4WbeI/AAAAAAAAGiU/HBsDwy4oSuQ/s1600/Swallow-tailed%2BKite1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="324" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-by4yDY2YiGc/VXogCE4WbeI/AAAAAAAAGiU/HBsDwy4oSuQ/s640/Swallow-tailed%2BKite1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Swallow-tailed Kite, above US-87, NC</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
We had our first sighting at the intersection of US-11 and US-87 as one cruised over the road in front of us. We called Mark K., who, also searching for kites, was waiting for us to meet him about 5 miles further down the road. This kite had vanished over the trees, so we decided to continue on to our rendezvous.<br />
But we had only made it a quarter mile before two more kites crossed the road. We pulled off at the first opportunity, a church parking lot, and were treated with the spectacle of eight (8!) Swallow-tailed Kites circling over our heads<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X9yMALxfoRg/VXogMaoET-I/AAAAAAAAGik/V9g5xuwDTBg/s1600/swallow-tailed%2Bkites%2B4.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="456" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X9yMALxfoRg/VXogMaoET-I/AAAAAAAAGik/V9g5xuwDTBg/s640/swallow-tailed%2Bkites%2B4.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I managed to get four out of eight Swallow-tailed Kites in one frame</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I've seen these beautiful kites in Florida, Nicaragua, Ecuador and Colombia where they are common, but they are relative new-comers to NC. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-84Y6wikF7EE/VXogD1E0WyI/AAAAAAAAGic/4KN_Dx7rfLI/s1600/Swallow-tailed%2BKites%2B3.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-84Y6wikF7EE/VXogD1E0WyI/AAAAAAAAGic/4KN_Dx7rfLI/s640/Swallow-tailed%2BKites%2B3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Only three Swallow-tailed Kites in this capture, but gives a nice perspective on how high they sometimes soar. Also notice the middle-distance bird in the bottom left is molting flight feathers and has a much shorter tail. Immature or molting adult?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Poor Mark arrived on the scene just after the kites had vanished. We dallied around for 20 minutes in vain and then continued on to our original destination, an abandoned Monk Parakeet nest where kites had been seen earlier in the day.<br />
<br />
We didn't see any kites, but where pleasantly surprised to see a pair of "Quaker birds," as they are called in pet store parlance, adding twigs to the nest.<br />
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2Jhwlq6ioU8/VXof8VsFt-I/AAAAAAAAGiQ/f-LKbht8Fao/s1600/Monk%2BParakeets2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="492" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2Jhwlq6ioU8/VXof8VsFt-I/AAAAAAAAGiQ/f-LKbht8Fao/s640/Monk%2BParakeets2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monk Parakeets, Northwest, NC</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Monk Parakeets are native to southern South America, but are commonly owned as pets. Escapees have established large populations in the US--and not just in South Florida, but in northern cities as well. Breeding in NC has been documented sporadically since the 1970s.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EYq4KFZUUIc/VXofo16xX3I/AAAAAAAAGiA/DRr5j_bXzro/s1600/Monk%2BParakeet1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="492" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EYq4KFZUUIc/VXofo16xX3I/AAAAAAAAGiA/DRr5j_bXzro/s640/Monk%2BParakeet1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monk Parakeet, Northwest, NC</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
According to locals, this pair has been in residence for a few years, but has yet to successfully fledge any chicks. Apparently European Starlings (another exotic species, ironically) have taken to feeding on parakeet eggs.<br />
<br />
We cruised around a bit longer with Mark hoping to lend him some of our Swallow-tailed Kite juju, but after a short, unsuccessful while we parted ways. We wanted to get to the beach with time to see one more odd bird. This one was over from across the pond, rather than from down south. <br />
<br />
A Black-headed Gull had been hanging around Mason Inlet at the north end of Wrightsville Beach. It turned out to be a real bird-chasers bird: sitting in plain sight in exactly the expected location.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7JfxOn7Kkq8/VXofZNP5wkI/AAAAAAAAGh0/wekSKJhsE2Y/s1600/Black-headed%2BGull.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="409" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7JfxOn7Kkq8/VXofZNP5wkI/AAAAAAAAGh0/wekSKJhsE2Y/s640/Black-headed%2BGull.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black-headed Gull, Mason Inlet, NC</td></tr>
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These gulls are super common over in Europe and wander over the North America regularly, but this is the first one in a few years to be found in NC and then stick around for lots of birders to see.<br />
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Some may debate the "countability" of Monk Parakeet, but that quibble aside, it was cool to add three species to my NC in one day! That hasn't happened since a pelagic I took in 2012. And I only added 5 species in all of 2014. So I don't ever expect to have such a day in this state ever again.<br />
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