Jamaica doesn't have much of a reputation as a birding destination, which is a real shame, since the lush Caribbean island is home to 30 endemics (depending on how you split them and/or declare them extinct).
Red-billed (morph?) of the Streamertail (a.k.a "Doctorbird," Jamaica's National Bird), Blue Mountains
With round-trip flights to Kingston for $350, Natalia and I simply couldn't afford not to head to Jamaica for some spring break birding.
Jamaican Woodpecker, Blue Mountains
We started in the Blue Mountains, famous for coffee. Areas suitable for coffee production (wet, mountainous, second growth) are always good for birding and the Blue Mountains were no exception.
Jamaican Tody, Blue Mountains
We spotted 15 endemic species (half!) in the first fantastic couple hours. We were elated, and then began to worry that we had made a mistake in hiring a guide.
Jamaican Euphonia, Blue Mountains
It turns out that birding Jamaica is really, really easy...especially compared to the neighboring island of Hispaniola, where a third of the endemics are nocturnal, hyper-local, endangered and/or undergrowth skulkers.
Jamaican Oriole, Blue Mountains
Lyndon Johnson's (our guide, not the former US president) laconic attitude reflected the low-difficulty birding. He arrived 15 minutes late to meet us, and then by 10 am when we had exhausted our opportunities for lifers in the Blue Mountains showed no interest in joining us for additional birding at a more distant location that afternoon.
Jamaican Pewee, Blue Mountains
So we continued on our own down the north slope of the Blue Mountains to the seaside town of Port Antonio.
Jamaican Vireo, Blue Mountains
Lyndon met us again the next morning to lead us to Jamaica's #1 birding site: Ecclesdown Road.
View from Ecclesdown Road
This narrow road follows a hill slope giving views off one side into tree tops and valley as it winds through wet foothill forest. The topography is ideal for excellent viewing of forest birds, which are everywhere. Fully 100% of the non-extinct endemic species can be found at this site alone and we managed to score all the ones we needed in just a few hours (those pictured and discussed below, plus: Jamaican Crow, Yellow-billed Parrot and Black-billed Parrot).
Once again, by noon we seemed to be out of birds to see. We asked Lyndon about White-tailed Tropicbirds, but rather than show us the spot, he gave us vague directions and went on his way. When we tried to follow up on his tropicbird tip a couple days later we ended up lost and asking a lot of strange bird
questions to bemused rural Jamaicans, who probably didn't know the
difference between a tropicbird and a pelican.
Oh well.
The exception to the EasyEndemics rule in Jamaica are Crested Quail-Dove, Jamaican Lizard-Cuckoo, Jamaican Blackbird and Jamaican Owl.
The Quail-Dove was the only one of the four that we might not have seen without Lyndon's help. He showed us a trail off the road in the Blue Mountains where a couple can be seen foraging in the leaf litter. We got great looks at these and then after returning to the road flushed a third up into a branch where it sat dumbly for a solid minute.
The Jamaican Blackbird is supposed to be one of the hardest birds, but we saw a few each of the three days we spent birding in appropriate (wet forest) habitat. Don't be fooled by it's mundane appearance, this is a bad-ass bird that has evolved to fill the empty niche left by the lack of foliage-gleaners and woodcreepers in Jamaica. It can be seen gleaning the moss-covered branches or heard thrashing around inside large bromeliads.
Jamaican Blackbird, Ecclesdown Road
The Jamaican-Lizard Cuckoo eluded us until we saw 4 at Ecclesdown Road.
The final endemic we ticked was the Jamaican Owl, which roosts in a tree at Frenchman's Cove just up the road from Port Antonio. Lyndon had no backup plans for this species, so we were relieved to see it in its usual spot on our second try.
Jamaican Owlinator (you have been owlinated), Frenchman's Cove
Halfway through day three and we had all the endemics in the bag, so we rewarded ourselves with a couple relaxing beach days at the paradise of Frenchman's Cove. This place is a gem. The body surfing might possibly be the best in the world.
To top it off we saw a beautiful White-tailed Tropicbird flying around outside the mouth of the cove. Awesome! Goes to show that sometimes its best to let the birds come rather than go chase. This is especially true in Jamaica.
After a couple days in paradise we reluctantly pried ourselves away to return to the Kingston area and bird the inauspiciously-named Hellshire Hills. The desert scrub here hosts a completely different bird community, including our target, the Bahama Mockingbird.
Bahama Mockingbird, Hellshire
The mockingbirds were mercifully easy and we were able to leave the hills before the hellish heat got too bad.
Bahama Mockingbirds, Hellshire
Yes, while all the birds that begin with "Jamaican" are endemic to Jamaica, it turns out Bahama Mockingbird can be found outside the Bahamas...
We got our final lifer of the trip in Hope Gardens in Kingston. Ricardo Miller, the owner of Arrowhead Tours, who set us up with Lyndon, gave us some tips on where he had recently found a couple Northern Potoos roosting here.
Northern Potoo, Hope Gardens
Tada!
In the end we probably could have seen all the endemics without guidance. Possible exceptions were the Crested Quail-Dove, the Jamaican Becard and Jamaican Elaenia. The Becard and Elaenia we only encountered once each and were able to see because Lyndon recognized their respective calls and pointed them out.
Lyndon also showed us a pair of Caribbean Doves at the Crested Quail-Dove spot. The doves aren't endemic, but have a small range and are shy and uncommon in Jamaica, so this was a nice bonus.
Speaking of doves, you may as well call Jamaica the 'island of the doves," because it hosts such an abundance and diversity of Columbids. We saw 9 species of pigeony-dove-type-things.
White-crowned Pigeons clamored around in the treetops of urban Port Antonio
White-crowned Pigeon, Hope Gardens
And the endemic Ring-tailed Pigeons were practically raining from the sky along Ecclesdown Road.
Ring-tailed Pigeons (Jamaica endemic), Blue Mountains
We had to be careful not to trip over Zenaida Doves in Hope Gardens.
Zenaida Dove, Hope Gardens
We also saw a couple Ruddy Quail-Doves at Ecclesdown Road, but we dipped on Mourning Dove--an unbearable tragedy.
Spring migrants are starting to show up in North Carolina now, but there were plenty of warblers still laying about in the Caribbean (we got 12 species) where they compliment their endemic cousin, the Arrowhead Warbler.
Arrowhead Warbler (Jamaica endemic), Blue Mountains
So that's Jamaica. Go there for the easy endemics, but do yourself a favor: embrace the island rhythms and save some time to relax on the beach. Who knows, a tropicbird may just pay you a visit.
Yellow-crowned Night-Heron, Hellshire
92 species seen; 32 lifers; other endemics not previously mentioned: Chestnut-bellied Cuckoo, Jamaican Spindalis, Sad Flycatcher, Rufous-tailed Flycatcher, Orangequit, Jamaican Mango, White-chinned Thrush, White-eyed Thrush, Yellow-shouldered Grassquit and the likely-to-be-split "Jamaican" Olive-throated Parakeet.
