With three Andean cordilleras, two long coasts and a
considerable chunk of Amazon rainforest getting all the attention, the Llanos is probably the most poorly known
region of Colombia. Few birders travel
to its seasonally flooded savannas because the flat topography means there are
no endemic species, and the alpha species diversity lags behind other South
American hotspots. This is a shame, because
it happens to be a phenomenal place to see birds.
The dry season (roughly November to March in a typical year)
is the time to visit. The inundated
landscape desiccates forcing wildlife to concentrate at depressions, called esteros,
where water persists.
Llanos wildlife, Casanare, Colombia |
I’ve yet to visit Brazil’s famed Pantanal, but I know of no other
place where one can go and expect to see six ibis species in a day…
Buff-necked Ibises, Casanare, Colombia |
…or Horned Screamers wandering around pastures like Turkeys.
Horned Screamer, Casanare, Colombia |
And it was at one of these llanos esteros where I finally
saw my first Jabiru, a massive stork that stands about 4-and-a-half feet
tall.
Jabirus in flight, Casanare, Colombia |
The default raptor in this region is the beautful and fearsome Savanna Hawk.
Savanna Hawk |
But this trip was about a science project; the birding
was just a bonus. I tagged along to help
world-famous conservation biologist, Natalia Ocampo-Penuela, affix satellite
geolocators to a couple Orinico Geese. El
“Pato Carreterra” (or “highway duck”), as the geese are referred to by locals, belongs to the shelduck-sheldgoose subfamily, Tadorninae.
Orinoco Geese, Casanare, Colombia |
Most of the population breeds in the llanos of Colombia
during the dry season, but where these geese go once the rainy season begins is
a mystery. Improvements in remote tracking
technology have led to an opportunity for Natalia and her collaborator, Duke
University’s Lisa Davenport, to track the movement of a couple geese for up to
three years.
Orinoco Geese, Casanare, Colombia |
All we had to do was catch a couple geese and
attach the transmitters.
Orinoco Geese, Casanare, Colombia |
Fortunately these geese will wander dazedly toward a bright
flashlight at night. They are quick and
strong though, and will bolt if they sense danger. Arturo and his skill with throwing a weighted
fishing net (“ataraya”) proved to be essential.
Natalia attaching a transmitter an Orinoco Goose - photo by Lourdes Penuela |
Natalia attached transmitters to one male and one female
following US Geological Society methods.
Data is flowing in from the male, but the female has not
transmitted since shortly after she was released. We fear she may have been eaten by the foxes
that where prowling the estero where we captured her.
Male Orinoco Goose wearing a satellite geolocator |
This is a small tragedy for the loss of life of the goose
and loss of equipment, but is part of the risk of doing any scientific field
investigation and life in the wilds of the llanos.
It will be months before we know where the male decides to
go for the rainy season and probably years before the results are published
(funds for more transmitters and geese will probably be needed), but it was a
thrill to be part of this investigation and get to experience such a
distinctive wetland landscape and appreciate its birds hands-on.
Great photos! That Horned Screamer is quite the funny looking bird! I can only imagine the sound it make based off the name. I was hoping to get in touch with you but I couldn't find your contact info. I hope you will email me.
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